14 replies to this topic

[Andy69]

After 31 years of racing, the 1.5 in my Si finally gave up the ghost.  I limped in after my last lap with a pretty loud rod knock. 

 

Then to top it off, putting it on the trailer, the hitch popped off the ball and put a nice gouge in my tailgate.

 

Needless to say, I'm not in the best mood right now.

 

Question is, do I spend the money to build an engine that maxes out the specs for FSP or go for a B or better swap?  The FSP motor with cost me 3-5k, and while the swap will probably be cheaper, it will throw me into Prepared where I'll be uncompetitive without further modification$$.  Either way I'm probably going to spend a bunch of $$.

 

The other option is just to find a seviceable D15 and run IT until it gives up the ghost.

 

Either way it looks like I'm out of the running for the threepeat :-(

[odz-fab]

where are you located?

[Andy69]

memphis

[Andy69]

Well now I'm not so sure. It sounded like a classic rod knock. The car also lost power (I was a good 3 seconds slower on the lap where it happened). The idle was way down, too. But hours later when I started it up to back it off the trailer, the knock was gone and the idle was back to normal. Not sure what to think about that. I would think if one or more bearings were damaged to the point of knocking, the knocking would be there regardless.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[shuttlecraft]

When calamity such as that occurs it is natural to think the worse.  I would take it apart to see what went wrong.  It may not be a simple fix but at least it didn't cost you anything to find out and maybe the solution is far fewer dollars than starting over.  It  also provides the opportunity to take preventative measures.

[anjin]

Be careful.  I had a faint knocking noise at about 6000 rpm in a B and went into the park.  After 5 minutes the engine wouldn't turn over.  After 30 it did. Over the next ten minutes the faint knocking got louder and the revs it started at got lower. It was a spun bearing, but the bearings slipped under the other and kept the rod from bouncing around a lot and making a lot of noise. Managed to ruin that crankshaft because I didn't turn it off again quickly enough.

[Andy69]

I started it up yesterday and messed around with it a bit.  Once it started warming up the knock became more prevalent.  It doesn't do it at idle but once under load it does.  Any way you cut it I think it needs to come out and checked out.

 

I really like this car, and I'm serious about finishing it into a competitive FSP car, but the cost of having someone build me an engine vs a swap vs just finding another used replacement is taking some getting used to.

 

Not sure what I'm going to do yet.  I've got plenty of time to think about it, since I'm probably out for the season unless I want to race my truck :-)

[anjin]

Building an engine isn't necessarily uber expensive.  I do everything I can myself, so it is "only" machining and parts that are money out of the wallett.  The pulldown, rebuild and reinstall are all my own labour. Provided there isn't much damage, then a rebore and hone, and a light skim of the block and head should be all you are up for. New pistons with rings to match the bore, new rod and crank bearings, oil seals and gaskets makes for a renewed engine. (I've done three of these the last 18 months.)

[Andy69]

I picked up a cheap running A3 with all accessories and damaged 5 speed for $150. Going to swap that in while i disassemble the one in the car.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[whittlebeast]

I am in a very similar boat.  My kid put a hole in my new radiator with one of my rod caps.  I am in process of installing a b18c in a 1985 CRX running Megasquirt.

 

Here in the old motor.

 

http://www.nbs-stl.c.../CRX Engine.jpg

 

Here is the new motor.

 

http://www.nbs-stl.c...Intake Side.jpg

 

I hope to be building motor mounts next week.

 

The other (new) Andy

[azz187]

B swap definitely worth it power more tuning options (mapping parts etc) and can get oem/aftermarket parts easier if not do a d16z6 for the above also but not as much power, still a decent upgrade over the 12v ew motor.also this excuse is not going to present it's self if you rebuild the original engine lol

[whittlebeast]

I will be going Megasquirt MS3/MS3x running full sequential.  The car is already wired for it.  All I have to do is move the sensors from the old motor.  I will be using the stock B18C cam sensors, at least to start.  I prefer 361 crank sensors but we will see how it goes.

 

http://www.nbs-stl.c...rior Wiring.jpg

 

http://www.nbs-stl.c... CRX Wiring.jpg

 

Here is the coil pack setup I run.

 

http://www.nbs-stl.c...RX Ignition.jpg

 

I plan to do a build thread once I get a little closer.  Right now I am waiting for the motor mounts and 1/2 shafts showing up to lock down locations.  Then move on to radiator, power steering pumps, clutch actuation and then wiring.  Building the ITB manifold does not look too bad.  As of now, I don't know of any show stoppers.

 

Andy

Edited by whittlebeast, 09 August 2016 - 07:14 AM.

[Andy69]

B swap definitely worth it power more tuning options (mapping parts etc) and can get oem/aftermarket parts easier if not do a d16z6 for the above also but not as much power, still a decent upgrade over the 12v ew motor.also this excuse is not going to present it's self if you rebuild the original engine lol

 

I think I'm going to stick with rebuilding the original to FSP specs.  A swap puts me in Prepared or even Modified, and the other changes needed to remain competitive in those classes would far outweigh the benefits of a motor swap.

[whittlebeast]

I may have for sale a treasure chest of parts for you if you have interest.

[djsteviec]

I have a good short block that needs a re-build, and 2 mainly good heads that will need a couple valves and guides. My other engine blew. You can have all of my D15a3 parts for free! I just want to get rid of them and prefer not to throw them out. I am in CT.  These came from an '87 Si.

 

FYI, I do endurance racing and ended up swapping to a d15b VTEC from jdmenginedepot.com  and all I did was change fr and rear seals, t-belt, w/p and t-stat. I am now on 4 endurance race weekends and it is perfect. (knock on wood) It had 45k or less on it. Uses no oil and has 2 stage V-TEC. I can help you with all the info you need if you decided to go that way.

 

It is now a rocket! I beat E30,E36, and even an E46 (that driver sucked!).  It is only 130hp, but with the car gutted- it is a rocket!

Here is one video from Palmer Motorsports Park-

https://youtu.be/qAiXhLButsY