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Aluminum Race Raditors And Race Fan Kits


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#16
funkmaster

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that comment wasnt meant to be negative, and definitely not negatively directed at you.

#17
CSPCRX

I am not clear on what you are asking? Could you restate the question?

Victor
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#18
myheadhertz

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QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Aug 25 2008, 10:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
There is a track day on the 13th of next month I am trying to get ready for. Should be a big test of the system since it will be over 100 degrees out and at Phoenix International Raceway. Lots of full throttle time on the oval.


I'd like to know how the radiator does with the car idling in hot weather (as if stuck in traffic). That would be a good "real world test".

#19
rinnaye

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QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Aug 26 2008, 07:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I am not clear on what you are asking? Could you restate the question?


Sure, I'll be happy to restate the question.

Marcus stated that this aluminum race radiator, and fan kit has the ability to "build pressure."

QUOTE (MrDisibility @ Aug 23 2008, 06:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Most cheaper fans have the cfm, but not the ability to build pressure. So long story short, the fan supplied with this radiator will move all the air needed to keep the car cool no matter how hot the air outside is.


I'd like to know what is pressure building? How is this pressure building accomplished? And how does building pressure allow for better cooling, particularly with regards to this kit, versus my new OEM cooling system?

I for one am all for the purchase of this full kit, because even with my new radiator, my car's temp guage will frequently climb to the uppermost 3/4's while in traffic when the A/C is on, and I'll do/buy anything to keep that needle down, and in check.

Respectively,

#20
CSPCRX

I drove the car to work, 60 miles round trip. I posted the results earlier in the other thread. Drive home was freeway and city street traffic. Outside temp was 108 deg. Car had no problems. I even discovered the radiator cap wasnt on all the way when I got home and it still didnt overheat.

I am not sure what Marus is referring to. Pressure builds in all cooling systems this has no more then a stock system. Perhaps he can answer this.

Victor
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#21
Buford

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From Marcus
"Most cheaper fans have the cfm, but not the ability to build pressure..."


A fan or a propeller has blades which are air foils.

Design of any air foil is critical and designed around Renolds Numbers, which is in essence the speed at which the air flows over the air foil. If not designed correctly, the air foil stalls.

In fan applications this stall results in the loss of flow (pumping power). So what Marcus is saying is that cheaper fans pump CFM (cubic feet per min.) flow well when they are not obstructed, but the stall out when obstructed by the radiator elements because their design is for a given flow rate to prevent the stall. They will not beable to force air through the Rad effectively.

What Marcus is saying is that the fan that goes with the new Rad is designed to keep moving air when it is placed in front (or back) of a radiator element, it is designed not to stall out and will build the necessary pressure to force the air through the radiator.
Buford Out

#22
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QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Aug 27 2008, 06:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I drove the car to work, 60 miles round trip. I posted the results earlier in the other thread. Please post link to this other thread! Drive home was freeway and city street traffic. Outside temp was 108 deg. Car had no problems. I even discovered the radiator cap wasnt on all the way when I got home and it still didnt overheat.

I am not sure what Marus is referring to. Pressure builds in all cooling systems this has no more then a stock system. Perhaps he can answer this.


So, other than a weight advantage, space advantage, and being less corrosive, am I to go on the assumption that the Aluminum Race Radiator, and Fan is NOT any more effective than my new OEM radiator?

Help me out guys,

I'd really like to get sold on this thing, but I need to justify the cost of doing this swap. Considering my current radiator is not even a year old yet. Just exactly how will the Aluminum setup make my car run cooler than the OEM setup?

Rene

#23
Buford

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The 1/2 rad will help cooling problems when you are using headers with no heat shield. Heat will transfer from the headers when the car is not moving, and the fan is off, and then the temps go up. Maybe while the car is moving as well.

Also for the turbo guys a half Rad gives them lots of room for the turbo.

The rad is also 2 row.
Buford Out

#24
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QUOTE (Buford @ Aug 27 2008, 08:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The 1/2 rad will help cooling problems when you are using headers with no heat shield. Heat will transfer from the headers when the car is not moving, and the fan is off, and then the temps go up. Maybe while the car is moving as well.

Also for the turbo guys a half Rad gives them lots of room for the turbo.

The rad is also 2 row.


Thanks for your input my good man!

I am as green as they come, with having useable knowledge on the technicalities of our cars, so please forgive me if I seem to ask too many questions, but in the 1G/3G car world, ignorance is definitely not bliss, and the cost of not knowing can be very expensive.

Being the half radiator is "2 row," will it fit ok with my upcoming D16a1 engine swap?

Rene

#25
CSPCRX

Now I get the pressure comment. They way the Ron Davis, the manufacturer, explained it to me is like this. CFM, the amount of air a fan moves, is not universally measured. Some just mount a fan in free air, not pulling through a radiator, and publish that as the CFM for the fan. Others base it on pulling through a radiator. What Ron Davis did was test dozens of units on one of their thick core radiators to see what pulled the most air and the Spal did it. Its a product of fan blade design and the quality of the fan motor. I am sure this out performs the stock fan. Since the stock fan is designed for a small core radiator. Smaller motors will probably have no problem using the stock fan and this radiator combo, but I do not know I have not tested it. When I had them designed I made sure the stock fan mounts were there so you had the option.

Edited by CSPCRX, 27 August 2008 - 05:54 PM.

Victor
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#26
MrDisibility

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QUOTE (CSPCRX @ Aug 27 2008, 05:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No I get the pressure comment. They way the Ron Davis, the manufacturer, explained it to me is like this. CFM, the amount of air a fan moves, is not universally measured. Some just mount a fan in free air, not pulling through a radiator, and publish that as the CFM for the fan. Others base it on pulling through a radiator. What Ron Davis did was test dozens of units on one of their thick core radiators to see what pulled the most air and the Spal did it. Its a product of fan blade design and the quality of the fan motor. I am sure this out performs the stock fan. Since the stock fan is designed for a small core radiator. Smaller motors will probably have no problem using the stock fan and this radiator combo, but I do not know I have not tested it. When I had them designed I made sure the stock fan mounts were there so you had the option.



I tend to think the stock fan would be a viable fan to use for street cars, since these fans are designed to adequately flow air through the radiator. The stock radiator in an Si is a thing one, similar to a dual core in thickness.

For me, the upgraded fan is definitely preferable though! More air, more cooling, good in the hot and the boosted car...

Marcus

#27
CSPCRX

I agree. Smaller engines low HP the radiator by its self should be plenty. I think the 150 hp plus group would want the full package just to be safe. But again I can not speak from experiance only personal opinion. Remember this, if you get the SPAL fan when its ordered it comes with special mounts like the ones in the picture of my unit specifically for that SPAL fan, very clean. If you get the radiator with out the fan these mounts are not included so you would have to use the stock fan mounts that are on the radiator and make your own brackets. Wouldnt be hard to do just more work later.

Victor
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85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail

2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily


#28
wentcrazycrx

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QUOTE (rinnaye @ Aug 27 2008, 07:19 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So, other than a weight advantage, space advantage, and being less corrosive, am I to go on the assumption that the Aluminum Race Radiator, and Fan is NOT any more effective than my new OEM radiator?

Help me out guys,

I'd really like to get sold on this thing, but I need to justify the cost of doing this swap. Considering my current radiator is not even a year old yet. Just exactly how will the Aluminum setup make my car run cooler than the OEM setup?

Rene


Not trying to BUT Rene I don't know if your ? got answered. This Aluminum Race Radiator is thicker ( If i remember the COR of the RAD. is about 1.5 X thicker) The stock RAD. has a small single tub. The Aluminum Race Radiator is a single tub but wider. There is a big difference in these RAD. IN my O/P and 2c

Hay CSPCRX can you do a side PIC. of both RAD.????


OK I went out and got some pic of OME RAD The core was only about 5/8" thick






Ops There is one of those ENG. tapes aging.......


Hope this help you Rene

Edited by wentcrazycrx, 27 August 2008 - 06:12 PM.


#29
rinnaye

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QUOTE (wentcrazycrx @ Aug 27 2008, 04:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Not trying to BUT Rene I don't know if your ? got answered. This Aluminum Race Radiator is thicker ( If i remember the COR of the RAD. is about 1.5 X thicker) The stock RAD. has a small single tub. The Aluminum Race Radiator is a single tub but wider. There is a big difference in these RAD. IN my O/P and 2c

Hope this help you Rene


Thanks it does!

Now to be absolute, if I may be able to hear from anyone that has, or is planning to install the Aluminum Radiator, and Fan in their air conditioned D16a1 powered 1G/3G, then you'll see my name posted on that order list.

Rene

#30
wentcrazycrx

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QUOTE (rinnaye @ Aug 27 2008, 04:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Thanks it does!

Now to be absolute, if I may be able to hear from anyone that has, or is planning to install the Aluminum Radiator, and Fan in their air conditioned D16a1 powered 1G/3G, then you'll see my name posted on that order list.

Rene


Me or my son will we have
1.84 B1.8 power we steel need to mount the A/C compressor but the AC was my ? to. But I think it will work there is 3" of room in front of the condenser if I need to push it forward
2. building a Straman B1.8
3.86 si b1.8

I will jump on board at the end OR if more MONEY comes avoidable.
I'll trade a 86 full size bronco for 3 Aluminum Radiators no fans even LOL