50 replies to this topic

[squareback]

Just picked up a 1987 Civic Si for a new project. Since late 2008, I had been driving a 1990 Civic EX sedan that I had cosmetically and mechanically restored, but after two years, I had decided that I didn't really need the access of a 4-door anymore, and I prefer the look of the 84-87 hatchbacks better. I began looking for a suitable example and found one locally that needed work but was priced right. I just happen to have a complete Si drivetrain in my shed, so I was mainly looking for a car with a decent body and interior. The car I found has a couple of minor rust spots, but nothing structural. Considering I will be using this car as a primary daily driver that will see use in snow and the occasional severe weather here in the Midwest, I don't need or want a car that is perfect.

My car needs a few things to be roadworthy. First of all, it doesn't run due to a broken camshaft. When the seller told me the cam was broken, I was expecting that it was at the end near the cam pulley and key, but it is at one of the journals:


Fortunately, I have what I need and will be swapping parts from the spare engine I have. I am hoping this is the only thing the car needs to run, but I won't know until I replace it. Here is the car the day I brought it home:





Plans for the car? It will stay fairly stock for a while as I collect parts to do what I want. Eventually, I see the car being lowered a bit with good shocks and a nice rear sway bar; I think I will try the Chrysler minivan rear sway bar and maybe Tokico shocks. I'd like to stick with 13"or 14" wheels, as I feel it looks the best for these cars, but tire choice may be the determining factor of my ultimate selection. I do like the idea of first-gen. Miata wheels with 185/60R14 Dunlop Star Spec tires, and that is my front runner right now. I will keep the engine stock for now, as I would like to do a D16Z6 swap using Hasport's new mount kit. I will collect the parts needed for this swap as I go and perform the swap once everything is ready. 130+ horsepower in a sub-2000 pound car will be lots of fun on the street. Interior will stay stock, but I need to replace the driver's seat, as it is shredded on the bolster. I may look for a stock replacement, but I may try to find something more supportive (maybe Integra).

I am excited to get started on this project, and I am glad to be back in a 3G after being gone too long.

[Old School REX]

Great place to start looks like! Is the throttle body loose from the intake manifold? Or is it just me?

[Aren D.]

I have never seen a cam do that!

Anyway glad to see you with a 3g, GL with the project.

[NWClassicHonda]

Sweet new project!

[black87crx]

cool project hope thats the only think wrong with it

[squareback]

Great place to start looks like! Is the throttle body loose from the intake manifold? Or is it just me?

It's not you. As I've been digging into the engine bay, I have discovered several bolts missing, mainly on the intake manifold. My guess is that someone wanted to figure out what had gone wrong with the engine but had no clue about how to take these engines apart. It looks pretty harmless, so I don't think I will find anything that can't be reversed.

[Emefef]

Nice find!

That looks like a solid starting point for a project. The body looks like it just needs some polishing and it would be good to go!

BTW, if you decide you don't need those wheel covers, please keep me in mind They would be perfect for my CRXmas project.

[squareback]

I've been doing some general clean up on the car, including a full interior scrub and chassis wash. This car does have a couple of spots of rust that I don't plan on fixing, so I killed those areas with POR 15 and will probably just slather on some undercoating and call it good. I may also pull the carpet just to make sure I don't miss any hidden rust.

I finally had the chance to dig into the engine also. I pulled the head off to get a look inside the cylinders (the head needed to be replaced anyway since a cam journal was butchered when the cam broke). The pistons did have some carbon buildup on them, and cylinders #3 & 4 seemed to have a bit of oil residue in them also. I can see where the intake valves on cylinder #2 just barely dented their piston, but the other three appear untouched; I'm sure those valves were open when the cam broke. I don't know the condition of the rings, but at least the pistons themselves appear fine. The bottom of the head is pretty nasty, so I hope there won't be any surprises when I slap the spare head on the car. If I discover this bottom end has issues, I can always do a whole engine swap for the spare in the shed that I have seen/heard run on a few occasions (although it has a bad clutch).

Here's the bottom of the cylinder head when I pulled it:


I should be able to get the head off the spare engine this week, so I hope to have the head gasket here by then.

[kedwards]

Typically, when our cams break like that, there has been an oil starvation problem, often due to insufficient oil change frequency. I'd recommend using your spare engine intact, rather than using its head on this block.

Your last picture of the underside of the head looks pretty nasty.

Keith

[Mark L]

Keith is right, I would not waste a head gasket on that engine until I at least dropped the Pan and take a look around.
It had an lubrication issue, no oil, old oil or bad oil pump.
The Distributor is not seized, correct?

Mark


quote name='kedwards' date='Dec 15 2010, 06:04 AM' post='508811']
Typically, when our cams break like that, there has been an oil starvation problem, often due to insufficient oil change frequency. I'd recommend using your spare engine intact, rather than using its head on this block.

Your last picture of the underside of the head looks pretty nasty.

Keith
[/quote]

[squareback]

I appreciate the input, guys. I had been giving it some thought through the day today, and I essentially came to the same conclusion. I think I will change all the maintenance things on the spare engine (timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tune up) and just clean it up to swap it into the car intact. I don't want to put any more money into it than necessary, as I want to do some sort of engine swap within the next few months. I won't do any long distance driving with the car, so ultimate reliability is not terribly important. If this engine can get me through the winter and the severe weather in our spring & early summer months, I'll be happy. Looks like I just need to change the clutch.

[squareback]

Not much progress, but progress nonetheless. Got the engine down to almost just the bottom end in anticipation of pulling it. I should have it out within the next couple of days, at which time I will clean the engine bay. I will also clean the spare engine that's going in along with doing easy maintenance stuff before installing it.

[mallardtape]

While you're in there replace the rear main seal and throw out bearing. Also all the front seals. Saves trouble in the future. People often overlook those then they cause trouble and tons of unneed work if done in the 1st place.

[squareback]

Thanks, I had planned something like that anyway. I appreciate the heads up.

Got the engine out today with the help of my assistant:


Time to clean:


I separated the engine and transaxle to see if I can use this clutch in the spare engine (which has a bad clutch). I believe I can based on how it looks, but I'll take second opinions. FWIW, the clutch disc looks good and is about 7.5mm thick (not sure if there is a standard thickness for new ones or ones that are toast):


Hope everyone has a nice holiday weekend!

[Old School REX]

I think you'll be happy you went this route. If it were me on the clutch just replace the throw-out bearing and the disc. Those are the cheap parts and unless the pressure plate surface is scored it is usually still good. (do check the spring retainers, rivets, etc...) Looks like you do have an over-qualified assistant there though.