291 replies to this topic

[CRXer87hf]

No problem man!  I haven't read your build completely but I really like the idea.  I'm interested in getting into RallyX so I'm interested in your process and success.  Your tube framing and welding looks pro man.  Kudos.  I might have you come over and do some for me sometime  

 

I've found that pics do attract more attention to your posts for sure.  You'll notice in my build threads, there are only a few posts without pics.  Also, if you want specific questions answered, you might want to start a separate thread.  That seems to work best for me.  I have quite a few questions that get missed in my build postings.  

 

Did you have any questions still open? Maybe I can help.

 

Good luck with the undercoating.  What I did on mine was fix problem areas.  I was poked around to feel for rust underneath the undercoating, sanded it off, patched the rust spot and applied the new coating.  

[Dirtcircle86]

My goal with the undercoating is to remove it completely for weight purposes.  I've heard different guesses as to what it weighs and cant really imagine it being too heavy.  I did remove a pound or so just from the rear axle (estimate) so I think it's probably worth the effort to remove it all.  When I get the front suspension finished, I'll roll it out in the yard and lay it on it's side with the tractor to ease removal.  Most of it seems really brittle and may just come off with the pressure washer. 

[CRXer87hf]

Here's a thought.  With the way these cars rust, and the fact that after one lap on a dirt track, I would imagine you will gain all that weight back with the mud and dirt caked onto the underside of the car... It might be worth keeping the undercoating on, unless you're not concerned with keeping the integrity of the body for a long period of time.  Like I said, just a thought. 

[Dirtcircle86]

Life expectancy of a dirt track car isn't very long.  This car was rearended and hailed on so it was beyond repair.  Head gasket blown, waterpump leaking, lots of problems when i got it so it was perfect to let it end it's life as a race car.  I know the purists on here hate to see a car wasted but this one was stolen from the crusher to go race! Not a better way to go out if you ask me. 

 

No, I am probably puting WAY too much effort into this build considering it could get driven into the wall or flipped on any Saturday night.  It does get caked with mud pretty early during track packing but spraying the underside with PAM and keeping scrapers and brushes around keeps a lot of mud weight off.  Later in the night when the track gets smoked in (especially when SPRINT is there), it turns black with rubber and is more like rough asphalt. 

 

It will not have a chance to rust.  Unfortunately the car was completely rust free and would have been nice had it not been wrecked and destroyed by hail. 

[CRXer87hf]

Well then, have at it!  Send it out in style!

[Dirtcircle86]

Sorry, I don't remember the questions I had. I give up pretty quick and make a decision. It's just a race car. Ha! I wanted to get the other strut brace in tonight but had to figure out why my shop heater quit. It will take a little more figuring because I want to allow plenty of room for camber. We're allowed 5* and I want the option.

As far as RallyX, my setup probably would be horrible for anything other than turning left. Straights will be a compromise and I doubt it will turn right at all. My goal is to control under/oversteer with brakes and throttle and very little steering input. Steering will be more of a general input for controlling how far the ass comes around. I see no physical reason why I can't get it to "drift" left with the correct setup. I WILL get it to work, how long it works will depend on clutch and brake quality as well as torque.

If the rest of the field will race clean, the car would last indefinitely but I've never seen a clean race. "Rubbin' is racin'" so they say.

Too much typing.... Here's a picture of my 1971 pontoon I did last spring.

[Dirtcircle86]

Dammit! I think my welding supply is closed tomorrow.



I got a little done. Went a different route on the passenger side. Well see how it goes. I knew I was getting low on gas but what kind of timing is that? Gotta call them in the morning. Piss poor planning. I got plenty of non welding stuff to get done I guess.

We are allowed 5* of camber but I have no clue what the radius arc length is from the ball joint to the tower mount. I did some guesswork math and came up with .33" per degree. Probably closer to .40". I think my rough measuring was 20" from the strut mount to the outer cross member mount. Add a couple more inches, give or take, to the ball joint. We'll see.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:07 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

Matching brace on the passenger side.



iPad pictures suck.

I need a bottle refill and some 1" weld....

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:08 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

I found a useful piece on the Teg this morning. I hated to do it cause the Teg body would work as a back-up body in a pinch.



I may use some flux core wire but I seriously HATE that stuff.

[Dirtcircle86]

Wish I could do some body work. Not. I've barely got any welder gas left and its starting to spackle a little. Hope I can get the major components tacked in.

Underside patchwork. They appear upside down on photobucket so I will probably scream if they are here. I don't

Omg.... Trying to turn them over... So I have to hit the edit button on photobucket and hit "replace original" and "save" and they are right-side-up. I will turn the iPad upside down next time.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:10 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

Still didn't work. Please stand on your head if u want to see them correctly.

[Dirtcircle86]

This piece is a little more tricky.



But it is right side up.... Doing a little trimming and fitting.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 25 January 2014 - 03:11 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

Well, if Frankenstein were in a train wreck, this is how it would turn out.

It looked,a little fragile so I added a brace for it to push on. I may add another on the front.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:11 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

Got thestruts notched. I went up about an inch but its damn close to the CV boot. I may have to make some more notches.



Sprayed a little $1 paint on the train wreck of a left strut tower.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:12 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

My phone takes way better pictures than the iPad so I'll probably take pix with it and e-mail them to myself. I used a hacksaw and notched the index splines in the radius arms. The torque tubes don't have an "index notch" but then again, maybe the CRX didn't either. But I'm pretty sure I had to remove a spline to index them. I counted the splines on the T-bars, several times, and found the big end has 40 and the smaller end has 37. I'll start another thread on that.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:14 PM.