245 replies to this topic

[firstgencrx]

Like I said earlier, the Prelude alternator is heavier than the EW, and I can't see any reason to not run the smaller alt. Here are the two on the scale:

Prelude alternator, 11lbs 10.4oz:


The EW alternator, 8lbs 7oz:


That simple decision was good for 3lbs 3.4oz of more weight loss. So far we are doing great! Hasn't cost me much.

Next item on the list is the flywheel. I picked up this flywheel that is supposed to be made from Chromoly, but I don't know for sure. Anyway, I also got it with a new Greddy pressure plate and clutch disc (I may have spelled that wrong and I am too damn lazy to go out into the shop and check!). Here is the front view:


And back view:


Kind of cool looking I thought. The important thing is the weight. The old flywheel is 18lbs 11.4oz and the new one is only 9lbs 9.6oz. That gives us another 9lbs 1.8oz of weight loss.

Well that's it for now. I will go to work on some of the other items on the list and see what I can squeeze out of them.

Take care all!

David

[strudel]

A little information on this little piece of light hardware. We have a different shaped mount than the EDM's got. They got the same size/shape as the Teg mount and hence we have to grind out the CRX mount to work on a D16A1. I have the rough differences jotted down somewhere. Not that it is that important for you but if you plan to hang the mount off the front of the engine it will give you some basis to think about. I hope I explained that correctly. Just some useless drivel for some!

Hopefully those pics of the aluminum mount I sent were of some value. I have always wanted to rejig a mount to aluminum ala Hasport to fit properly for the D16 swap. You are doing a bit of the opposite of what I will need in the Mini. Because of space constraints I have to somehow move the front mount to roughly where a side mount would sit but wrap it around from the front. JS

[firstgencrx]

Last I checked, the H22 transmission is about 7lbs heavier than B series, engine is close to 30lbs which you are already close to getting there... so the real question of weight isn't as much about the quantity, but where it is located in relation to the front axle line.

That would be really cool Zak, but the numbers I have been getting on the net is the H22 engine tranny combo is about 200 pounds more than the EW tranny combo. Of course, everyone who posts these numbers on the net are just guessing. With my handy dandy scales, we will know for sure!!

I am hoping to drop about 30 to 40 pounds total if possible. It will most likely require I build a new intake manifold for the motor. I couldn't believe how heavy that thing was!

Then I would like to move or lose another 50 to 70 pounds from the front of the car. All I can do is try.

David

[firstgencrx]

A little information on this little piece of light hardware. We have a different shaped mount than the EDM's got. They got the same size/shape as the Teg mount and hence we have to grind out the CRX mount to work on a D16A1. I have the rough differences jotted down somewhere. Not that it is that important for you but if you plan to hang the mount off the front of the engine it will give you some basis to think about. I hope I explained that correctly. Just some useless drivel for some!

Hopefully those pics of the aluminum mount I sent were of some value. I have always wanted to rejig a mount to aluminum ala Hasport to fit properly for the D16 swap. You are doing a bit of the opposite of what I will need in the Mini. Because of space constraints I have to somehow move the front mount to roughly where a side mount would sit but wrap it around from the front. JS

It's all light and flimsy! I am so not used to working on cars so light, you can put your fist through them! (I think I said that already before) Anywho, the mount I will make will bolt to the side of the front of the motor like I said above. I would also like to make it the alternator mount as well. I should try and put some gussets on that little flimsy frame bracket!

I can see how you would need to use the side mount location. On your mini, there probably isn't any frame in front of the motor to mount anything to!

David

[zakats]

I think its best if you keep the alternator on the firewall side of the engine as to keep every bit of weight more rearward oriented... something to consider

[DEIVIONCRX]

The only problem putting it on the back side is accessing it at a later date.

[zakats]

The only problem putting it on the back side is accessing it at a later date.

Why? the engine can't be mounted that close to the firewall considering the intake manifold's dimensions... even a really short ITB setup would still allow enough space to get to the alt.

[firstgencrx]

This afternoon I gun drilled the half-shaft 1/2" inched down the center and de-burred/de-flashed the bearing housing. I left a small 1/4" inch long solid bit in the center so the transmission doesn't have a path to pump all it's oil out down the half-shaft. I only thought of that at the last minute!

Before weight:


After weight:


End views:




Only 1lbs 1.1oz gained, and it only took me two hours! Not a very efficient pound lost. Oh well. As of this post, 17lbs 7.3oz lost so far.

Next project will be a little harder to do. I am going to attempt a crankshaft pulley. I might also make an alternator one as well, but just for looks.

I have chosen "Blue" to be my accent color on this project, so all aluminum bits and pieces I make will be anodized in blue.

Does anyone know if the multi groove belts are more efficient than the standard v-belts? I don't care which one I make, I just thought I might make the one that uses less power while I'm at it.

Take care all!

David

P.S. There was an earlier discussion about which side to mount the alternator, on the front or firewall side of the motor. I don't really care, but there are no accessory holes on the firewall side of the motor, none. And because I am going to make my drivers side engine mount on the front side of the engine, I thought I would just make it the alternator mount as well.

[DEIVIONCRX]

I think multi-grove belts have more reistance to slipping from the increased surface wear.

[zakats]

one of the ballin' racers needs to chime in and back me up

[firstgencrx]

I think multi-grove belts have more reistance to slipping from the increased surface wear.

So the one that slips less is more efficient. Makes sense to me.

I read on the technical section of the Gates Rubber Website, a paper on just this subject. They didn't go into the efficiency differences between the multi-grove or single grove systems, but they did put forward a strong argument for the toothed belt systems being much more efficient than the single v or multi-v systems due to no slippage. My only concern with using a toothed belt on an alternator is, if the alternator were to freeze up, the belt would be destroyed. And some of those belts are pretty damn strong. Would hate to do harm to any other part of the system like the mount.

David

[strudel]

All of the Mini guys but me that use Honda engines have to mount them either on the front or on the top somewhere. Some have run them in reverse because of space. I can probably give you some links if you want to look at some of the variants. I think you might like this because of the fab work. JS

[firstgencrx]

I was doing some research on the whole under drive pulley idea this evening and I discovered something that might change my plans for the pulley. I noticed the H22 crankshaft pulley is also a vibration dampener:


So I did some searching, and found that this is something this motor seems to need. I am still not 100 percent on this though because companies like Unorthodox Racing sell both stock diameter and under drive pulleys for this engine. And these crank pulleys they sell for the H22 are not vibration dampened.

So I looked at the stock pulley to see if I could make it lighter, like cutting off the outer pulley which I don't need:


But then I noticed the balancing holes. If I cut that smaller pulley off, I will need to get this thing balanced. That won't be cheap.

So it seems Honda wants a vibration dampener on the H22. Anyone have any thoughts or experience with the idea of running without one? I know with American Iron, it's sure death!

Take care,

David

[firstgencrx]

All of the Mini guys but me that use Honda engines have to mount them either on the front or on the top somewhere. Some have run them in reverse because of space. I can probably give you some links if you want to look at some of the variants. I think you might like this because of the fab work. JS

WOW! That is a bitchin looking mount! I would love to see any links you have to this kind of stuff.

Thanks Jerry,

David

[DEIVIONCRX]

I like the idea of mounting it like that except for your putting the weight up higher, the lower the better IMO.

I wouldnt bother with the Unortdox racing pully, theres still alot of people that claim their the reason for the bearings dying. You should source a EuroR H22 or F20B pully, they are like the CTR N1 pully with only the alt rib, but its a factory OEM part so its ballanced and has the damper on it im sure.

Edit: No Need http://www.hmotorson....php?prodID=534