45 replies to this topic

[chedda_j]

After a tonne of discussion on the forums, Facebook, and between multiple members I have came up with a suitable way to adjust the rear camber without the use of shims. These kits will be made of CNC laser cut plates, machined bungs, TIG welded adjustable links and Grade 8 or better hardware. 

First of all, this swap is not for the faint of heart, or for those who don't have much mechanical knowledge. 

First off, the basics: 

To allow the axle to be adjustable, we will have to cut 20" of the tubing between ends. Once this is done, machined inserts will slide inside of the axle housing. These inserts have welded, boxed and slotted brackets on their faces, this allows the center brace to be bolted on. The center brace is made up of two flat pieces of steel, welded together using tubing (located where the holes are cut through). They will also be welded together at the ends using DOM tubing, allowing the bolts to travel through the plates and tubes, and not allowing compression when tightening.

Once everything is installed together and everything is square, the bungs can be welded in using plug welds and one large radius weld around the pipe. The inserts will be weld ready. 

The slotted holes allow for 6 degrees of +/- adjustment on either end. 

*These will work with external sway bars.

Here is the progress so far.  The drawings below are a fairly accurate depiction of what it will look like. 

More News: To help dial in the camber, a small set of adjusters may be used, on the bottom side of the axle, connecting to the axle and center braces. 

This picture shows the MAX Negative Camber at 6 Degrees. 3 Degrees will be more than enough to suffice for track use, but 6 degrees allow for users to tuck tires (on street cars). 
 

 

A picture of the axle, fresh out of my spare car. 

 

 
I went ahead and started to strip the axle of all its rubberized finish. This isn't mandatory but I will be getting it powdercoated. 

 

 

Here is a simple way to mark a perfect circle around a piece of pipe. Rap a piece of paper around the tubing, hold tight, mark your line. 

 

 

 

20" total, 10" on either side of center. 

 

I used a saws-all (reciprocating saw) to cut through the material. I will clean it up later with a grinder. 

 

 

The tubing is fairly thick at .125", I will match the strength on the new linkage, using a boxing technique.

[Ed Funk]

?Added un-sprung weight?

[cbstdscott]

Stance is not easy.

[chedda_j]

In reality the weight will be very comparable. I'm shooting for an addition of 1 or 2 lbs max. The structure in the middle of the axle will likely end up weighing less, and the inserts will be made of tubing to reduce weight as much as possible.

[cbstdscott]

Any changes to the trailing arms to accommodate all that negative camber?

[chedda_j]

My trailing arms have full spherical bearings, You yourself have seen what a trailing arm bushing looks like. They are built for off axis movement, hollow on two sides. The trailing arm itself is built to flex. You can literally twist the trailing arm by hand. So even without spherical trailing arms like mine, you could have a few degrees without compromising the bushing. 

Here is the middle plate tacked together. It may still get plates on top and the sides. 

 

 

 

 

[chedda_j]

Spherical Trailing Arms for those who have forgotten. 

[cbstdscott]

It just occurred to me that if you attached the center section to the body, you would effectively have created an independent rear suspension.

[chedda_j]

If it was hinged essentially yes. Lol

[Ed Funk]

With swing axles....don't tell Ralph Nader!

[cahitapower]

in on this....just wondering on how the external sway bar is gona workout?...

[cbstdscott]

This project intrigues me...

Tell us about the rear shocks.

[chedda_j]

Although the shocks will end up moving off axis slightly, less than you think, I believe the bushings will have enough flex to handle it. First I need to complete the the linkages and plugs. Worst case senario, they will get sphericals.

On the topic of the sway bar, alignment spacers under the inner bushing flange will flatten the bushings out to a level position.

[Screech]

What are the odds of a single vertical pivot through the middle of the center section to work as a toe adjustment? Just remember to advice that a lots of camber on this system would not be good without a tight rear suspension since under compressing that camber would translate into toe in while under extension getting more toe out. If I remember right this concern would be more noticed on the CRX than the Civic due to the shorter trailing arms on the CRX.<br /><br />

[chedda_j]

I thought about rotating couplers in the center to adjust such things, but phb clearance might prevent that from working. As long as it was in a fairly neutraul position during normal riding conditions, the toe in and toe out would remain almost the same as stock. With my car lowered 2" I probably don't have much more than 2" of compressed suspension travel left. That's not much room for the tires to toe in or toe out in rotation. If you can do it with shims, there no reason why this won't work too. Atleast this can be quickly adjusted and dialed in, rather than just guessing.