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A Source For 1985 Honda Crx Hf Auxilary Float?


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#1
ascendedmind

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I cannot seem to find a replacement Auxilary float for my 1985 Honda CRX HF.

 

Are you aware of any soucres for new Auxilary float replacements?

 

According to Honda the Part Number for the Keihin 3 barrel carburetor is:

16013-PE0-701 (Float Set)

 

I was able to find the primary float on ebay, but not the auxilary float.

 

Is there another name for the auxilary float?

 

What keywords would you use to find this part?

 

"The auxiliary throttle bore is much smaller than either the primary or secondary throttle bores, and is completely separate from the other two. It has its own fuel bowl, float, needle valve, air bleed, vent hose and cut-off diaphragm, idle mixture adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment (referred to by Honda as the "Lambda" adjustment). So for all practical purposes the auxiliary throttle bore is essentially a mini-carburetor within the main carburetor."



#2
GeezRX

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Likely out of luck sourcing a new float...either repair your original or check with someone like N.W. Classic Honda and see if Danny can source one for you. They don't come in any carb rebuild kits that I've seen.


"Old and usually in the way" - Check out my '86 3G build in "VIEW GARAGE"


#3
ascendedmind

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Likely out of luck sourcing a new float...either repair your original or check with someone like N.W. Classic Honda and see if Danny can source one for you. They don't come in any carb rebuild kits that I've seen.

 

Got lucky finding a new carb base plate, so you never know...



#4
shuttlecraft

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Your carburetor doesn't (or at least I think it shouldn't) have an auxiliary float system.  That system was a component of the pre-3rd gen Hondas distinquishable by their oval shaped bonnet.  Actually the two float bowls were separated front and back of the body which elongated the carburetor giving it that oval shape.  See http://www.aa1car.co...onda_keihin.htmfor a good read on the topic.  Yours is the 3 barrel Keihin EA10D (49 states) unless the car came from Cali or Canada and it has only one fuel bowl and float system.  A new float should come standard with any decent carb rebuild kit. I think one is Napa's Echlin 2-1348.



#5
ascendedmind

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Re-Read the 1st & 2nd paragraph of the Keihin link you posted. It says 1984-1987 Honda Civics have auxiliary float.



#6
shuttlecraft

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Just as the first sentence states, "Honda used a variety of carburetors on their passenger cars..." so as I said, your car doesn't have (with this caveat) an auxiliary float system.  I've owned an 85 and now I have an 86 civic, both carb'd and have had them out, apart and rebuilt on more than one occasion.  The round topped carbs do not have an auxiliary bowl and float system.  The auxiliary throttle bore is jetted from the single main fuel bowl.  The 1&2 paragraph reference the third auxiliary throttle bore.  The remainder of the article goes on to examine the earlier model carburetor.  I need to learn how to post pictures.  I have several pix of the carb body with the bonnet removed so you can see exactly what's going on.



#7
ascendedmind

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Thank you for clarifying. Now does the primary float traditionally wear out in the 1984-1987 Honda CRX HF? What traditionally needs replacement in or on this carburetor?



#8
shuttlecraft

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Not typically.  When a float fails it means it has lost it's buoyancy.  It has a crack, pin-hole, saturated whatever.  Easy to test right?  The floats I've seen and used have been plastic.  Never had any problem so perhaps I've been lucky.  Odds are that your's is ok, unless you have it out and know that it's bad.  The float needle will become hard, develop a seat and eventually lose its seal.  Consequently, the fuel supply will become erratic and flooding will ensue.  The two o-rings on the needle seat will often fail.  If you attempt to adjust the fuel level in the bowl on a carb that hasn't been touched in quite a while, gas will leak out around the screw.  If it's working, best to just leave that alone.  Another common issue is bushing wear on the throttle shafts.  As these shafts rotate, opening and closing the throttle plates, wear on the bushings occurs.  This wear can be so great that it allows air to enter into the carburetor.  Sometimes that's the issue and not mounting plate or some other vacuum source.  The accelerator pump mechanism will wear, become weak or quit working altogether.  Perhaps the most common issue is the accumulation of particulates in the bowl.  The culprit here is obviously dirty gas, but could be the result of neglecting to change fuel filters (both).  Yet another is the presence of ethanol in our fuels.  Ethanol attracts water, and water corrodes the inside of the gas tank or effloresce inside the carburetor.  These contaminants travel through the carb's metering system and can/will cause hell.  The worst thing you can do with these cars is let them sit for long periods of time without running.  I have seen some corrosive affects inside Honda carburetors where the metallic finish on the inside wall of the bowl has been eaten away.  The fuel passage ways inside these carburetors are so minute, its amazing.  Any tiny little spec of something can cause problems.  I remember one garage mechanic tell me that he never turns one of these carbs upside down.  I though that was a little strange but maybe he's got a point.



#9
ascendedmind

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Thank you again very clarifying...

 

Based upon your experience & knowledge of these carburetors would you recommend buying a rebuilt carburetor assuming there is bushing wear on the throttle shafts?

 

If yes, which reliable quality source would you recommend? Any source you would definitely avoid?

 

Or just rebuilding your own by reading the Honda service manual & instructions which come with carb rebuild kits? I have all the parts now, including new carb base plate. Note: I have never rebuilt any carb before, but others say now is the time to learn...



#10
shuttlecraft

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Yes I would.1  See my post to ashinoybi.  I have no experience with the HF setup.  I am curious what makes it HF.  Is it the carburetor, the head, the shape of the piston, all the above?  I don't think the FSM goes into much explanation but then I've never looked into it.  BTW, I recommend getting the FSM as it is a worthwhile investment if you plan to keep the vehicle and learn to do your own repairs.  Last question is a judgement call.  Since you've invested in the parts, and assuming you've opened the rebuild kit packaging, i.e., no longer returnable, I would launch into the rebuild.  You should use a new base plate in either scenario.  I agree, now is good time to learn.

 

1. You will be removing the carb anyway so check for play/sloppiness in the shaft at that time.



#11
ascendedmind

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It's everything, the  emission system, head, the carburetor, vacuum system, the HF is technically engineered for High Fuel mileage. That's, why devaccing the vacuum system & replacing the carburetor with a weber or any other carb will substantially reduce your MPG.

 

Even the aluminum wheels & lightweight body is designed for improved MPG.