33 replies to this topic

[DarKGifT06]

so im not 100% positive on how they work can some one tell me and what exactly do i need to do to re-index them?

If im going to re-index them should i go to a different bar that is re-indexed or will stock be ok?

[Hart-n-Sol]

i feel a write up coming on.

[civtrx]

there has been many write-ups!

here's one from Mark that I took me 2 seconds to find while searching...and if this doesn't do it, do more searching as there is also a picture that Mark made as well in Paint to show direction of the rotation (both bars want to be rotated inward)

Torsion bar resplining. You have a civic, so you are lucky, and you won't need to file anything. The details of resplining are a bit tricky, but in theory what you are doing is taking the torsion bar out, rotating it one spline, and putting it back in. This effectively puts the suspension higher up in the body, lowering the car. The general maximum is considered to be one spline, but if you go two and adjust the nut all the way up, it is the same height... and it gives you the availability to lower it more if you ever want. Thats just what I suggest from my own experience. If you are going to re-index (re-spline, same thing) you should think about getting some stiffer shocks and springs. I haven't had a problem yet, but the roads around here are pretty good.

-Civ

[Hart-n-Sol]

I have searched before and wasn't able to find anything. I might not have searched with the right words but i was able to figure out how to lower the car by looking at the manuals. As far as the re-index part i never really knew which way to turn it and couldn't find any pics to illustrate it enough so i was going to go ahead and just do it with my own in depth pics. I keep seeing this question come up allot too (even i asked it a few times) and thats what led me to beleive there wasn't anything that really answered this in a easy to find way. Thanks though i'm going to search again and see if i can find the paint pic.

[civtrx]

wasn't trying to be blunt towards you or anything, I hate searching myself as I never quite get the answers im looking for, but ive found if you try all different kinds of words, you can usually get lucky

Edited by civtrx, 07 September 2004 - 04:52 PM.

[I are Corey]

it aint as easy as rotating it one spline. i have had to release the tention in the torison bar to replace my one control arm.

you DO have to release the torison bar to rotate it dont ya? i'd imagine

[Rampage]

Yes, you have to release tension on the bar, but that is as simple as backing off the adjustment nut all the way. You have to have the wheels off the ground, of course.

Funny thing is my civic had a master spline on the T-bar, but I managed to figure out a way to re-spline without filing

I wish I remember how I did it, when you think about the way you play around with the torsion bars it gets quite confusing.


Here is how they work:


The torsion bar is a rod of spring steel. It is splined on both ends. It works just like a spring would, when you twist the spring, it wants to return to its original position. This is the same principle as torsion bars, the twisting motion gives you suspension spring. on one end, the torsion bar is splined to a torsion bar tube, which is anchored to the frame of the car. On the other end, the torsion bar is splined to the control arm, so the control arm can move, and create the spring tension agains the body of the car. Basically the back of the T-bar is stationary, anchored to the frame, and the control arm side is free to twist.

If I can figure out how I resplined them I will post it, for now, here is the picture I made:



Cheers,
Mark

[civtrx]

there's the beautiful picture!

Thanks again Mark, you rock!

[conrad perez]

a word of heed matey! I have gone through the trouble of reseting the bars in my AH yep great it slammed the body down a good 2.5 to 3 inches and ride is pretty good teamed up with KBY gas shocks UNTIL!!! i swapped the engine to the d16 its now riding on the bump stopps after messing around with teg tbars and tyre profiles I still cant get it as low as before without bottoming the shocks out so i talked to a suspension bloke ere in oz and the only way was to get custom made shortened shocks in order to get good travel through the shock and this proceedur is pretty costly! unless you can do a bit of fab mods and fit over the counter shortened shocks!!

[DarKGifT06]

couldnt you find a pair of shocks from a diff car that are shorter i dont know what kind of car would have a shorter travel distance but im shure there is some thing out there that would have a simular weight and distance that u could use.

Thanks for that pic and post this makes it very understandable. i sort-of knew how they worked but now its much clearer. so i just remove the T-bar from the T-tube and rotate one spline to the middle of the car rasing the position of my control arms simple. now all i need is a spring compresor to remove and cut my rear springs.

Edited by DarKGifT06, 08 September 2004 - 11:42 AM.

[Greg Gauper]

FYI - You don't need a spring compressor or any other special tool to remove the rear springs. Just jack up the car body and let the rear axle sag.

[rpr]

FYI  - You don't need a spring compressor or any other special tool to remove the rear springs. Just jack up the car body and let the rear axle sag.

Not too far though...remember those pesky brake lines...

[Hart-n-Sol]

wasn't trying to be blunt towards you or anything, I hate searching myself as I never quite get the answers im looking for, but ive found if you try all different kinds of words, you can usually get lucky 

Naw it wasn't taken that way. It's the same way on honda tech. There is all this information out there just gotta be able to know how to find it.

That pic is the bomb though

[Rampage]

FYI, I have my car re-splined two teeth, and adjusted all the way up for maximum pre-load on the T-Bar.

With that combination, and having my header sit about 4 inches off the ground, I have not bottomed the car on the bump stops or smashed the header, but I am very careful, especially around potholes.

The ride is noticeably harsher, though.

Maybe I have hit the bumpstops, but I haven't really noticed I guess. (I don't think I know the difference )

Cheers,
Mark

[DarKGifT06]

ok so this is me just walking thru the process in my head. (let me know if there is something wrong)

Front
1. jack up car and remove tires. (for better access)
2. Remove Tube Cap
3. Pull out T-bar
4. Insert T-Bar rotated 2 splines to the middle of the car.
5. Adjust bolt all the way up.

Rear.
1. Jack up car and remove tires.
2. Undo strut bold in hatch.
3. Undo strut bolds on rear stabalizer bar.
4. Remove spring and strut assembaly.
5. Remove spring from assembaly.
6. Cut spring down 2 coils & replace.