Awesome! thanks for the heads up.

Good plan, its not like you can make it worse.

Well when i did this work for 15 years (my father has owned his shop for 40 years) i didnt see many scenarios like this unless the car was starting to rot which is a totally different issues. Hondas in general were always a pain in the ass when it came to "frame" repair mainly because of their weak pinch welds or lack there of any real pinch weld which required special hold down towers. You would always cause some damage to them but nothing detrimental. Anyways...

Since simply heating them and bending them back will weaken the material, I would imagine you would have to remove the outer rocker panel and replace the sandwiched section that includes the jack point. Since there is no way you can buy that panel at this point something would have to be fabricated. It would definitely not be a simple job. Or try and reinforcing it like rufusbob mentioned, would still require some cutting and welding.

I haven't really paid much attention to mine but i wonder if there is somewhere under the car that you could tie in a reinforcement to the unibody and use that to jack the car instead of the factory jack point. Maybe something that runs down the side of the car? Next time im under there ill look around. Would be a great mod if there was something to tie into. I hate the jack points because its hard to get my jack in and still be able to place a stand underneath.

Sorry for the double post but i cant reply to the first one to add items.

Black Dash (came out of 87 Si model)

- No wires

- No glove box

- Some vents

- No dash cluster

- Looks in good condition

87 Si Center Console

- Dirty but will clean up

Left Tail Light

- has some wear and tear but i dont see any cracks

Right Tail Light

- Has wear but i dont see any cracks

- Missing one of the mounting studs

87 Si Intake

- Definitely dirty but seems to function mechanically

- no injectors included

All, i have some parts that i no longer need and figured i would offer them up here before putting them on eBay or craigslist.

If you see something you are interested in just DM me and make me an offer.

Not sure how to ship the larger things but we can cross that bridge when we get there. I live in upstate/western NY just south of Rochester if anyone wants to pick anything up.

Si Front Bumper (Came off an 87 model)

- Obviously not pristine but still in good shape

- Will need some love to look perfect

Si Rear Bumper (Came off an 87 model)

- Obviously not pristine but still in good shape

- Will need some love to look perfect

- Upper tabs that mount to the reinforcement were melted a little when i removed the bolts (had to use heat), they can be repaired with some effort and a plastic welder.

Si Right Side Door Trim (Came off an 87 model)

- Good condition

- one small crack in lower corner

- No molding included (i may have it but i have to look harder, if you are interested ill look for it)

No problem, im sure it will work out fine.

There were a couple very simple modifications i had to make to it.

- I shortened the rear straight section a few inches just to be able to fit my muffler where i wanted it. 

- I moved the exhaust hanger so it lined up with the factory 85' location

- Lastly i had to weld on an adapter to go from 1.75" to 2" which is what the muffler needed.

So yea i had to modify it but they are all really simple modification and made not even be necessary for what you are going to do with it.

If you need some more pictures or something just let me know.

No worries, thanks for looking for me.

Looking for the short Si throttle cable is anyone has one they would part with.

I currently have the longer HF cable working and i just cant stand how much it has to loop around to attach to the throttle body on the manifold.

Thanks!

Brent

Little things here and there.

Found out my brake master cylinder was leaking so changed that with a Raybestos part from RockAuto.

Made some adjustments to the body panels

Have been messing with what seems like a sticky Tach but im reluctant to pull the cluster out again just out of laziness. Im sure i will get around to it.

I may have to change my alternator to something more than 30 amps which i tried because it was cheap and i dont have much for accessories. It still just seems to low but ill re-evaluate once i can drive more freely.

Changed the fuel pump because the eBay one i bought was way too loud and drew way too much current. The new one is from Walbro and is much quieter, highly recommend for a budget FP that you can basically customize.

Once my registration is complete i need to get it to an alignment shop before i do any additional driving/engine tuning. I cant wait to be legal on the road and not have to try and stick to back roads with no plates.

My plan is to do an autocross in September as just a test and tune so i can open it up more, hopefully i dont have something that limits that from happening.

After looking long and hard for the title to this car i cant find it. Now that wouldn't be a problem if long ago me or my father had put it in our name but that did not happen. We bought the car from an elderly lady that we imagine has since passed on so getting a replacement was likely not an option.

I read awhile ago about the "Vermont DMV Loophole" and decided to go for it.

Sorry if this is repeat info on here but i figured i would share my experience. 

Basically Vermont does not title vehicles that are 15 years old or older, they give you a registration like the good ol days.

Since the CRX was now roughly 37 years old i figured i might as well try otherwise be stuck driving it on a dealer plate forever or trying to wade through the ridiculous NYS procedures.

As a non-Vermont resident i can apply for a VT registration the vehicle since its older than 15 years. Below is what i needed to do.

- Fill out VT registration application

- Fill out the VT bill of sale (does not need to be from the last known owner of the vehicle)

- Fill out the VT odometer disclosure statement form

- Fill out the VT VIN verification form, which is mostly done by a community official (Police Officer/local DMV)

- Make sure the car is not stolen/salvage (done by the cop)

- Look up the NADA value

- Send them a check for $76 + 6% sales tax on the price you paid or the NADA value (Whatever is higher)

- Send it to VT DMV and wait

Now there are some specifics that you want to be aware of if you go this route as far as filling out the paperwork and things which i can help with if someone needs it just DM me.

Since you will get a VT registration in the mail you then have to take that to your state DMV and get a title or whatever your state does with older vehicles. Your home state has to recognize the VT registration because it is a non-title jurisdiction for older than 15 years and is totally legal.

Anyways...

2-weeks later i got a temp registration and VT plates in the mail, the real registration to follow about a week and a half later. 

This was super easy so i just wanted to share my thoughts on here incase someone else is going through similar title pain. 

Now i haven't brought this to my NYS DMV yet which im sure they will hassle me about but they do have to recognize it has proof of ownership so it will work it self out. Plus they like money so they will take it.

Let me know if anyone has any questions or wants links to the documents!

Also curious on the status.

Body work looks great, reminds me of when i was replacing the whole drivers side on my 85.

I have a complete EW1 engine/transmission that i no longer need and would like to get rid of if anyone is interested.

Came out of an 85 CRX HF with 38k miles. Super low miles because it came out of the car i swapped the Si engine into.

It ran fine when i rebuilt the carbs like 18 years ago but beyond that i have no idea.

The engine is complete as far as i know.

I have no idea how to ship this thing so i guess its local pick-up unless anyone else has an idea (located in the Rochester, NY area)

Im open to offers.

I watched that yesterday, crazy all the parts he was able to find.

I would kill for those carbs ha

it does look in really nice shape!

Thanks man! its almost sad that ive gotten basically to "the end" but im sure ill find more stuff to work. its never really done. Plus i can go back to my other projects.

the resonator is aluminized steel, i actually thought i bought the SS one but must have added the wrong one to my cart, oh well.

So im not totally sure if the 2G over the axle section has exactly the same flange but i bet it sure is close. I never had the Si exhaust to compare it to, i only had the HF exhaust which was smaller anyways so that all got ripped out. It is the female side of the joint though at the axle if that helps and it takes the donut gasket so it had a good amount of room to play. I can send some more pictures of it if that helps. It was only $15 from RockAuto so i just went with it https://www.rockauto...1530880&jsn=855

The carpet actually was totally stock from a donor car way back when. I removed it long ago and put it in a box in the attic, went back 15 years later and it was still there. There were a couple rough spots but mostly in good shape. Gave it a good cleaning and dried it in the sun before i put it in.

Finished the exhaust. Its definitely quieter now, possibly too quiet but ill be ok with that.

Below is what i used to make the exhaust.

- 5' section of 1.75" OD stainless tube (Cut into smaller sections throughout the system)

- 1X 6", 1.75" OD stainless braided flex pipe

- 1X 12", 1.75" ID resonator/glasspack

- 2X long arm 90° mandrel bent SS 1.75" OD elbows

- 1X 2nd Gen CRX over the axle section (AP/Eastern PN: 38389) 

- 2X 1.75" ID donut gasket plates with gaskets

- 1X 1.75" ID to 2" OD SS adapter

- Dynamax 17730 aluminized muffler

- 1X 2" OD tight 90° SS Elbow

- 1X Shitty exhaust tip from amazon (cheapest)

- a few custom bent hanger rods

All welded except at the connection to the downpipe, the section where it goes over the axle and the muffler attachment points. Luckily this was a simple exhaust so making it was not a big deal.

All thats left are tires, which i got yesterday, and more tuning.

in all of your research did you ever end up finding an alternative to the KYB Excels? thats all i could find for mine

Nice work BTW. I thought about doing this at work because we have a large force tester that can accurately measure and record the load/deflection but i got lazy and just went with the KYB's

Yea not sure what Honda was thinking when they came up with that whole concept ha.

Yea the black screws would definitely make a cleaner look.

Ill send a set to the printer and DM you when they are ready. probably monday unless something comes up at work that takes priority.

yea there are services you can find on like Etsy and other sites that will print your files for you. Obviously there are larger scale prototype houses but that would be excessive. But i will print them for anyone that wants to try them. I just use work filament so i might as well! ha

Id just ask for some money for shipping costs.

I cant guarantee the color though, it would be whatever i have.

As im sure all of you are aware, the cowl vent panel clips tend to break easily and are hard to come by. I didn't want to try and machine my own so i 3D printed a set of screw retainers that will fit into the existing square holes and retain a #8 pan head screw. They were based on an old mopar concept (among others) that did the same thing, open on the sides and you simply squeeze them until they fit in the square hole and then let them go. the small lip keeps them from coming out but also very easy to remove.

I printed them out of ABS so they are pretty tough. If anyone wants the STL file, CAD model, drawing or a set just DM me. 

On mine, they tightened down fine and are still holding strong.

Some images below.

 I used a windshield rest here just to show how they function since you cant see them under the cowl vent panel.

Started placing and tacking together the exhaust last night. Since my exhaust was for the HF i knew i was going to have to re-make it once the SI engine was in.

From the downpipe there is a short braided stainless flex pipe that continues to a piece of straight. From there i put a 12" resonator in before the 2-90's to get me pointed at the rear of the car on the right side. Its not in yet, but i have a section from a 2nd gen that goes over the axle and to the muffler. Currently it looks like i will be able to make all of this work fairly easy and hopefully it adds some good tone to the engine. I can post more about the specific components i used when im done.

Nice find! Even the box is in great shape.

Awesome instruction, thanks! I havent done much for adjustment on it so that will definitely help.

im going to do exactly that once i get more than a tiny glass pack on the exhaust, its quite loud and obnoxious in a bad way.

First drive went pretty well...

Left the house and the car was bucking like crazy, turned around and adjusted the fuel map. Left again with Tuner Studio VE Live Analyze on and after about 10 seconds the engine smoothed right out. No speedometer or Tach so ill have to fix that but it drove pretty decent other than not wanting to downshift from 5th to 4th. Anyone know if there are adjustments that can be made at the pedal or if there is something i should look out for as far as not wanting to lock into a gear? Ill have to take a look at that.

Other than that the suspension felt tight so ill make some adjustments and go at it again.