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im planning on swapping a 85mm b16 block and crank cuz u know u need the car to rev. custom turbo manifold hoping to make a reliable 400-500whp so im gonna need 3" piping in the end but thats later

i just want something in there that can pass smog. but wihtout reducer wut size cat do i need inlet i want to order it soon. thanks

it is gutted and got a new cap rotor spark plug fuel filters oil filter all the tune up shit but i dunno. its either the gauge cluster or the sensor in the tank ima wait and a few day sand c if it is really broken or not.

lol on the screw i dont know much about these cars the water helped a lot. i tried carb cleaner also.

i just bled the coolant the idle is still at 2k. and i think know the fan doesnt turn on the car was starting to get past the middle and some more where the fan usually turns on but it didnt turn on i turned off the car i turned on ac and the fan turned on hmm. so i guess its the fan switch or somethign i dunno.

on my old carb the idle screw was all the way out and it didnt drop idle i got a new carb from pick n pull for 50 dollra dont know if its good or not. im going to try to drop the idle with the screw and c if that works.

hmm so the run on is caused by the carbon if i get rid of some of the carbon it would stop doing it or is idling high bringing more carbon? sorry for all the questions but i need ehlp thanks.

can a moderator move this thread sorry. but to add to the post i didnt bleed the coolant the correct way yet the way ive been taught is turning on the car without the cap onb ut too much coolant comes out sometimes so im gonna drain it and do it the correct way and c if that helps any.

ive also noticed that it could be wehen the coolant temps are high the car tries to turn back on. umm its very confusing for me im not sure ill bleed it correctly tomorrow and get back to you guys.