435 replies to this topic

[DEIVIONCRX]

My Emissions Delete/Blockoff.

Heater core, IACV, Throttle Body, FITV heater blocks, "Bypass Caps" from Napa.



Fast Idle Thermo Valve(FITV) Vacuum Blockoff, 1/8" Steel w/Grey RTV.


EGR Vaccum/Exhaust Blockoff 1/8" Steel with original gasket and copper spray.


Air Intake Boost Valve (IABV) Blockoff, 1/16" Steel w/Grey RTV.


So many vacuum lines.


And the total package, the valve cover is temporary. I havent found a solution for capping the PCV hole in the B20 Valve covers ive got so untill then its going to be rocking the original 90-93 LS one. Ill paint one of my other LS's and stick it on there eventualy.

[84b18]

you can put a mini k&n filter on the pcv. it all looks great, but without the fiv and eacv how will you get it to idle well during warm up?

[zakats]

Manifold looks a lot better than mine. I have a goofy JB weld job done to the back of my P75 that I did hastily whilst getting an ear beating in stereo yesterday... I love women

btw, what made you want to go with a PR4 manifold? from the looks of it the p75 with the IACV relocated (using a D16Z6 IACV, thanks again for the idea!) seems like it should clear but I'll know for sure tomorrow.

I doubt it would meet your standards but I've heard of people using a shiny bolt through the PCV hole on the CRV VC personally I haven't made it that far yet so I just left the pcv in there... I still haven't found the proper hardware for my black box, I hate those things.

[DEIVIONCRX]

Im using the PR4 cuz thats what ive got.

This is just a temporary motor, for a couple years. The car does exceptional on the track as it sits, but on a fast course or one with alot of straits it just lacks the power to get moving, adding damn near 50hp to the car should make it even more of a beast, especialy if i can keep my momentium lines like i try to run right now.

The hole in the B20 cover is 3/4" so i just need to find some kinda brass plug thats a tad bigger than 3/4" so i can tap it and put it in there, or just give up and get it welded up when my friend gets comfortable with aluminum on his TIG.

84B18, im talking about something different than the small filter on the nipple on the valve cover. The B20 CRV's have the normal nipple and a hole dead center of the valve cover for a pcv valve that sits right in the valve cover. Im going to run a catch can, so the typical pcv nipple and the seperator box will feed into that, so i just need to plug that hole so no oil gets out.

[Screech]

Why get rid of the PVC? And Why not run the B20Z intake with the top box on it? Do you have a strut bar that is in the way?

This is just a temporary motor, for a couple years. The car does exceptional on the track as it sits, but on a fast course or one with alot of straits it just lacks the power to get moving, adding damn near 50hp to the car should make it even more of a beast, especialy if i can keep my momentium lines like i try to run right now.

That +50hp AND +40ftlb make a difference, I love it. Especially the torque on tap at almost any rpm.

[DEIVIONCRX]

The PCV just sucks oil into the motor, which in a performance application isnt needed and isnt good IMO. Re-routing the PCV to a catch can allows the motor to draw fresh air insted of oil vapor and sometimes strait oil into the intake manfiold and head.

If you ever pull off a stock intake manifold and clean it out youll see what i mean, when i rebuilt the ls it took me like 2hrs of brake clean and simple green and hot water to clean all the junk out of the intake manifold and runners, just thick oil slick gunk with dirt in it.

[DEIVIONCRX]

IT HAS BEGUN!!!!!!

Its served me well, but time for an upgrade.

[TribalHatch]

lookin good keep up the process

[DEIVIONCRX]

Everythings disconnected and ready. Just gota pull the mounts and the engine can come out. Probably wednesday, tomorrow im gonna see about swaping the Teg hubs into my knuckles.

Not bad for about 4hrs of real work.

[TribalHatch]

Everythings disconnected and ready. Just gota pull the mounts and the engine can come out. Probably wednesday, tomorrow im gonna see about swaping the Teg hubs into my knuckles.

Not bad for about 4hrs of real work.

LOL thats how mine went ask Shawn and No Shoes aka charles. i had the motor in within a week workin on it every night after work from 10 pm to 2 am. but i didnt have the research which i thought i did....lol... but yeah id recommend doin hubs and minor things last but hey its ur build and would like to see how others do other then me.

But hey GREAT TO SEE u goin B ....... but damn i remember Beatin on the EW

[kakabox]

But hey GREAT TO SEE u goin B ....... but damn i remember Beatin on the EW

Oh come-on DEIVIONCRX! Just port and deck the EW head, recurve the dizzy, install ITB's and BAM! you're there!



Cool...nice to see progress. 'B' series will also be the eventual fate of the K'box.

Good luck.

[DEIVIONCRX]

It would have been way cheeper to go with the D16A1. But i have a spot in my heart for B-series DOHC Non-VTEC.

Thus wanting to disprove all the riceboys, by building the biggest nastyest NA Non-Vtec motor i can. Shooting for 250whp. Probably 84.5 or 85mm, with the P8R head(Vtec Size Valves) chambered 84mm insted of 81mm like the PR4/P75 head.

[kakabox]

Shooting for 250whp.

Nice. As you know, at that power level in that car, traction will be probably be the 'limiting' factor. You're doing the OBX lsd in the 'teg box, right? So far mine has worked flawlessly, however, you'll be pushing almost twice the HP...should be fine. Tire selection/pressure will be more critical I assume also for proper hook-up.

Should be fun.

[lil buddy]

It would have been way cheeper to go with the D16A1. But i have a spot in my heart for B-series DOHC Non-VTEC.

Thus wanting to disprove all the riceboys, by building the biggest nastyest NA Non-Vtec motor i can. Shooting for 250whp. Probably 84.5 or 85mm, with the P8R head(Vtec Size Valves) chambered 84mm insted of 81mm like the PR4/P75 head.

man 250 in a b18.good luck.a co worker has a B20 vtec that i put together with Toda c cams and ITBs.he made 220whp and was tuned by the well known jeff evans. why not just grab a B16 head with ITR pistons and cams.its a cheap and reliable OEM build that will make good power.

[DEIVIONCRX]

Why not just grab a B16 head with ITR pistons and cams.its a cheap and reliable OEM build that will make good power.

Because i want to do it without VTEC, Everybody expects you to have VTEC and if you dont its not anything good, You say you have a B20 and they instantly assume its a CRVtec.

It will be a B20 just built out of a B18A1 block, the B20's are 84mm factory so ill probably end up with 84.5 or 85mm(2020cc). And the P8R head isnt well known, it came on the B20's in the Orthia which have the VTEC sized intake valves. That combined with a Race Port and some huge Crower Stage3 Full Race's should make my goal of 200whp, hopefully closer to 250whp that id like. Of course it will have a SMS-P header, ITBS, and probably somewhere in the range of 12.5-13:1 compression.

Nice. As you know, at that power level in that car, traction will be probably be the 'limiting' factor. You're doing the OBX lsd in the 'teg box, right? So far mine has worked flawlessly, however, you'll be pushing almost twice the HP...should be fine. Tire selection/pressure will be more critical I assume also for proper hook-up.

Yea i could have used a LSD with the EW even, if i was hard on it comming out of a turn it would spin the hell outa the inside tire. As for now the stock build B18A1 will not have a LSD, one of the next major purchases will be a OBX for it tho. Just after some suspension work and race seat. I expect it to be a handfull with the extra torque. As the car sits right now Street tires will be 205/50/15 Azenis or XS, and Race will be a 225/45/13 Hoosier A/R6.