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I do wish the aftermarket replacement radius arms had grease zerks though. The top of the line Moog I just installed do not.
1
This Is What Happens When A Ball Joint Fails
Started by cbstdscott, Sep 28 2014 05:29 PM
20 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 03 October 2014 - 08:29 AM
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- In the left lane
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- Group: Members
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Drives: Buick Saturn Chevy Honda Dodge
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#17
Posted 03 October 2014 - 08:43 AM
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- Speedy
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- Group: 2013 Contributor
- Location:Raleigh, NC
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Drives: 1985 Crx Si with Blacktop D16
Did you pay close attention to the country of origin for your Moogs? Most of the new Moog parts have been outsourced to Taiwan for manufacturing.
#18
Posted 03 October 2014 - 09:40 AM
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- In the left lane
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- Group: Members
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Drives: Buick Saturn Chevy Honda Dodge
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#19
Posted 12 October 2014 - 10:38 PM
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- Leadfoot
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- Group: 2018 Contributor
- Location:Foreign national in TX
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Drives: 9 crx's: #1 228k 87si beater, #2 concours 25K, #3 108K 87si, #4 98K parts car, #5 213K 87si parts car, #6 84 straman, #7 86si 150k #8 67k parts #9 129K si for straman conversion
thnx for the tips guys.
Took a crow bar and couldn't get either to budge, turned the wheel to the far right, far left, then straight, prying in each position, nada. I jacked the lower arm up about an inch to relieve and hanging up issues and nothing would move. staying w my 27 yr old Japanese lower arms for now. one boot is showing some slight stress fissures. continue to monitor. my assumption for us DD's that aren't driven hard is that if you keep the boots in good shape, then the lower arm will last at least 230k and counting.... I've only used oe boots over the years, so I have no experience to pass on regarding aftermarket ones.
being such an important issue, I'll just check each time I do the oil.
recently replaced my trucks upper and lowers. they were so loose to the point of catastrophic failure. dodged that bullet....
Took a crow bar and couldn't get either to budge, turned the wheel to the far right, far left, then straight, prying in each position, nada. I jacked the lower arm up about an inch to relieve and hanging up issues and nothing would move. staying w my 27 yr old Japanese lower arms for now. one boot is showing some slight stress fissures. continue to monitor. my assumption for us DD's that aren't driven hard is that if you keep the boots in good shape, then the lower arm will last at least 230k and counting.... I've only used oe boots over the years, so I have no experience to pass on regarding aftermarket ones.
being such an important issue, I'll just check each time I do the oil.
recently replaced my trucks upper and lowers. they were so loose to the point of catastrophic failure. dodged that bullet....
Keepin' it OEM
#20
Posted 13 October 2014 - 09:17 AM
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- Project CI2-VIC Team Lead
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- Group: 2012 Contributor
- Location:Eastern NC
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Drives: 16 Ford RS, 84 Civic 2000S (B20Z2), 98 Civic EX
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I do front end inspection every time I change the tires. On my daughter's we found play in one of them and installed a new one. I don't have the budget for annual replacement even though I race mine with 255/40R13 Hoosier A6's on the front. I inspect the hubs annually too.
Screech
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16 Ford RS (2.3l, DS)
84 Civic 2000S (B20Z2 2.0l, SMF)
#21
Posted 22 October 2014 - 07:53 PM
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- Dug Diggler
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- Group: 2009 Contributing Member
- Location:Silver Spring, MD
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Drives: 87 CRX w/Si motor, 86 Civic DX Hatch, 2001 Prelude
The ball joint broke on my 2001 Prelude. Took out the axle and front fender and I needed a tow home. Lucky it was a parking lot and not the highway.
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
WTB: 14x8 or 9" Panasports or Watanabe RS.
WTB: 3g Civic hatch gauge cowl, brown.
WTB: ZC header--FOUND
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