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Stumped On Cooling System Problems


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#16
badpenny

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QUOTE (JeepGirl @ Jan 19 2008, 02:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well what I just did was I connected a garden hose to the heatercore outlet>t-stat housing hose then I connected a drain hose onto the heatercore outlet then I cranked the water wide open.. and it was running through the system just fine.. So I think you might be right..

When we put the engine in the car last week, we filled the cooling system using a new fangled pressurized system that uses compressed air to push the coolant into the system.... What I think might have happened is that using that pressurizing gizmo forced all the crud in the rad down to the bottom where it only left a small passage for coolant to get through...

Sound about right?.....

Jeepgirl, have you guys taken out the block plug? Its located on the front of the engine right next to the bracket for the catalytic converter? The reason I ask is that I needed to figure out why my dad's rex wasn't pumping enough fluid, come to find out, the PO put stopleak in the engine, and this bunged up everything, including the fact that it had set for almost a year with all that sediment blocking off the water pump from the block. My suggestion, take out the bolt plug, if you get a stream, you should be good. BUt didn't you guys already rebuild this 1.3?
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#17
4N2NR

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If you button it up and it still overheats you could try removing the stat and running it without one. It should still overheat if the stat is good. You could also try bypassing the heater core by connecting the two hoses using a piece of pipe inserted in the hoses or connecting one hose directly back to the block. But I seriously doubt this will cure the overheating unless the heater core is leaking. One last possibility is a cracked head gasket where hot gasses are superheating the water when the vehicle is running. This usually manifests itself as foamy coffe-n-cream looking oil and/or rough running engine. A compression leak test should confirm/deny this. But this doean't usually affect flow rate. I'm willing to bet when you install the new pump your flow will increase and the temps will be lower.
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Just tell her you are fixing it for someone and it is not yours and when they never show up to pick it up tell her you are keeping it for all of the work you put into it.

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#18
JeepGirl

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Well, we found that our thermo fan switch is gone...

Were just throwing on the valve cover, topping it off and starting it up. I'm sure we'll have flow with the new pump and belt.

Then it's off to find a new switch.

And if all else fails Badpenny, we'll try what you suggested.

I checked the oil and the coolant a couple of times looking for evidence of a cracked block, but the oil is new oil honey coloured and the coolant was new and clean.

I'll get Max in here to read what you guys posted. I'm sure he'll appreciate the insight.

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#19
JeepGirl

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QUOTE (badpenny @ Jan 19 2008, 02:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Jeepgirl, have you guys taken out the block plug? Its located on the front of the engine right next to the bracket for the catalytic converter? The reason I ask is that I needed to figure out why my dad's rex wasn't pumping enough fluid, come to find out, the PO put stopleak in the engine, and this bunged up everything, including the fact that it had set for almost a year with all that sediment blocking off the water pump from the block. My suggestion, take out the bolt plug, if you get a stream, you should be good. BUt didn't you guys already rebuild this 1.3?


We just did this and there was no blockage. ran clean, clear and fast. And no we didn't rebuild the 1.3L were going to rebuild the 1.5L THEN the 1.3L when the 1.5 goes back in after it's rebuilt.

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#20
JeepGirl

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Grrr!!

Well we got it all buttoned up and started it, let it warm up... still no flow and no heat...

So were going to take out the t-stat and put the housing back on without the t-stat just to see if that's our issue....

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#21
4N2NR

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You can test a stat by putting it in a pan of water and heating it on the stove. You should be able to see it open. Could you have put the stat in upside down and water flow is pushing it closed? Otherwise, I'm stumped at this point!...

Edited by 4N2NR, 19 January 2008 - 06:46 PM.

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Just tell her you are fixing it for someone and it is not yours and when they never show up to pick it up tell her you are keeping it for all of the work you put into it.

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#22
badpenny

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verdict?
Honda, because it's hard to look baller in your mom's Volvo.Posted Image 
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.

#23
syko_tek1

I've had several different cooling problems.
1. Thermostat two new ones in a row stuck closed (one from autozone and one from Honda) I found that completely removing the t-stat will make it run too cool, so I cut the center out of one and it does good just takes a while to warm up.
2. The fan was wired backwards "pushing" air forward causing no actual air flow when moving.
3. The water pump as mentioned before.
4. The dreaded blown head gasket.
5. Clogged rad.

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#24
JeepGirl

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QUOTE (badpenny @ Jan 19 2008, 05:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
verdict?


I politely refuse to answer for fear of incriminating myself and those I love...

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#25
4N2NR

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QUOTE (JeepGirl @ Jan 19 2008, 11:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I politely refuse to answer for fear of incriminating myself and those I love...


The stat was good but was...going against the flow?
I put the FUN in dysfunctional!
Just tell her you are fixing it for someone and it is not yours and when they never show up to pick it up tell her you are keeping it for all of the work you put into it.

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#26
JeepGirl

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QUOTE (JeepGirl @ Jan 19 2008, 09:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I took the shroud off the wiring and 3 Oz's of dirt fell on my face.. I pulled the leads off the sensor.. jumpered them and turned the car to RUN to make sure the fan was working and wired properly.. plugged the leads back into the sensor and and it worked. There was just some corrosion around the contacts.. that was part of the problem... dry.gif


The rest of the problem is that we didn't fill it enough... the rad wasn't taking the water because the filler neck is setup weird, it would only take an Oz at a time. We knew were getting flow because we pulled the heatercore inlet hose off to make sure, it was flowing great!! but it was only flowing air... So we got the bright idea to take off the heatercore outlet hose off at the firewall and fill the block that way... while the car was off... with the rad cap off.. As soon as there was enough fluid in the system to reach the waterpump we started it and kept filling it till it was full. Shut the car off, put the hose back on the heatercore and fired up the car... it started flowing fast and HOT!

Shut it off and repeted the procedure once more, filled the overflow a bit... and it works perfect. I swear you could cook a batch of cookies or maybe a nice turkey in there now.. I dried my lips right out to nothing during the drive home biggrin.gif I guess pulling apart the ENTIRE COOLING/HEATING SYSTEM will do that for you dry.gif laugh.gif

The "old" water pump was brand new! it looked to be in the same shape as the new one we installed today.... dry.gif mad.gif Were keeping it as a spare laugh.gif

The "old" timing belt looked to be new as well.. were guessing the PO had done the work just prior to selling it to us. :grumbles: Oh well, now at least I know they are good and will last a long time. and I now have a spare t-belt, waterpump and 4 new t-stats (2 we bought, 1 that was in the 1.3 and the new one in the 1.5...)

Were guessing we created a HUGE air lock by using that pressurized coolant filling thing when we "filled" it up after the swap.


I feel dumb...

and tired.. and our backs are going to be killing us tomorrow...

Edited by JeepGirl, 20 January 2008 - 12:08 AM.

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