9 replies to this topic

[85Beater]

My alternator is on the verge of death, and unfortunatly my parts car is an Si so useless for that part (its good if anyone needs it). I priced the brushes from my local dealership at 32, however on Majestic Honda they list them for 5 and change a piece, I am going to have to go to the dealership and see exactly what I'm getting for that 32.

Onto the real question;

Has anybody replaced the brushes on their alternator before? My brother did it on his Toyota and said its a pretty simple soldering job, just seeing if anybody has experience with Honda units.

[syko_tek1]

My alternator is on the verge of death, and unfortunatly my parts car is an Si so useless for that part (its good if anyone needs it). I priced the brushes from my local dealership at 32, however on Majestic Honda they list them for 5 and change a piece, I am going to have to go to the dealership and see exactly what I'm getting for that 32.

Onto the real question;

Has anybody replaced the brushes on their alternator before? My brother did it on his Toyota and said its a pretty simple soldering job, just seeing if anybody has experience with Honda units.

they are easy everything unbolts or unscrews no soldering involved, and all 1g and 3g brushes interchange. The voltage regulator is the only different part in the alt.

[85Beater]

So I could harvest the brushes out of my good alternator and go from there? Thats fantastic news.

[SEEKERone]

What you want is called the "brush holder" assembly.
As stated, it comes out with screws and requires no soldering.
The brushes are available seperately but not worth the bother because they DO need to be soldered into the holder.

[85Beater]

beautiful, that illustration helps a ton. This problem has gone from a $78 alternator from autozone, to $32 brush assembly from Honda, to $0 vis-a-vis my parts car, who once again scores a big W into my wallet. I appreciate the heads up on the procedures, it helps a bunch.

[85Beater]

Just finished replacing the brushes, a much simpler job than I expected it to be. For anybody who plans on doing it in the future here's what you'll need;

Philips Head Screwdriver
8mm (? I used a 5/16ths) socket
10mm deep socket
12mm deep socket (regular depth will do, but the deep socket makes things easier to reach)
14mm regular socket (a deep wont work)

CAUTION: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!

STEP 1: Alternator Removal
Remove the two nuts holding the alternator tight. Its a 12mm in the slide bracket, and a 14mm at the pivot point. This is where the 12mm deep comes in handy as it reaches the slide bolt a little easier. Also the 14mm lower bolt is easiest to access by turning the steering wheel full left and going in through the fenderwell. Remove the slide bracket as well, it takes a 14mm socket (this doesn't seem required, but it helped to have the extra room). Pull off the alternator belt. At this time its easiest to get under the car, unless you have very skinny very flexible arms. The alternator itself pivots around a bar with a square end, just tap the end the nut came off with with a screwdriver to push it through. CAUTION: Once this bolt is pulled nothing is holding the alternator but friction, so heads up. Once the pivot bolt is out you can either wiggle the alternator out of its bracket or pry it out with a screwdriver, be sure to keep a firm hand on it as its heavy. There are two wire connections on the alternator, one is a simple plug, the other is held on with a 10mm nut (this is where the deep socket helps as well). These are easiest to remove once the alternator is out of its bracket, and mine had plenty of wire to let it hang down a bit. After you've removed these take your alternator free and proceed to step 2.

STEP 2: Brush Removal/Installation
This was super easy. You only need to remove the back of the alternator, its held on by 3 8mm (5/16 again is the socket I had) nut. The bracket that holds the wires has a bolt on top and underneath, should be pretty obvious. You'll also need to remove the other 10mm nut from where the ground wire was on. Pull the cover off exposing the goodies. The brush holder is a small piece with some rubber insulation on top, its held in by two phillips head screws. Simply unscrew the two screws and slide the brush holder assembly out. CAUTION: The rubber piece tears easy and seems pretty important and I stripped one of the screws, push firmly when your taking the screws out. Slide your new brush assembly in, you will have to push the brushes into the holder for it to fit so either little fingers or a small screwdriver will help here. Once the assembly is in replace the two screws that secure it, the back cover of the alternator, and the nut that holds the black plastic insulator around the ground.

STEP 3: Alternator Installation
Pretty much the exact opposite of taking it out. I found it easier to replace the plug and ground wire before I even tried to put the alternator back in its bracket. The bracket has two large metal bushings that help give the bracket some degree of play when reinstalling. If you can't get your alternator in tap these bushings outward with the end of your ratchet or whatever you might have, it will make your day a lot easier and the bushings will be tightened back down whenever you secure the bottom bolt. The pivot bolt has a squared end and should mate flush with the bracket, the squared end prevents it from turning when you tighten the nut back down. Dont tighten any of the bolts until you have all three back in, then only tighten the bolt holding the slide bracket in. Put your belt back on and tighten it down. This is accomplished by pressing a prybar (or in my case a 1/2" ratchet) to the top of the alternator until the belt is tight. While holding it tight (helps to have an extra hand here, but not needed) tighten the 12mm bolt on top of the alternator, then the lower 14mm.

Reattach your battery and your done.


Anybody with any other comments feel free to post. I've got the carbed model and found removing the carb hat gave me a little more light, but didn't really affect ease of access.

[SEEKERone]

Happy th op hear you got it done.


What is even more fun than the way you did it is if you have access to a lift.
From underneath I have changed the brush holder without removing the alternator...just took off end cover.
Couldn't get the right angle withoput being able to stand under the car though.

[85Beater]

Yea, I was able to jack the radiator support up about a foot and a half off the ground (used my Supra's jack instead of the CRX's) and then put some jackstands under it. Drove the car onto a big tarp in the front yard so I wouldn't lose pieces or end up laying on some ants. Definitely a pain but glad my CRX is back on the road, the Supra is a thirsty beast and takes premium... ouch

[badpenny]

Yea, I was able to jack the radiator support up about a foot and a half off the ground (used my Supra's jack instead of the CRX's) and then put some jackstands under it. Drove the car onto a big tarp in the front yard so I wouldn't lose pieces or end up laying on some ants. Definitely a pain but glad my CRX is back on the road, the Supra is a thirsty beast and takes premium... ouch

Can I send you $5 for that regulator?

[ae7f]

Deleted.

Answered my own question again...

Edited by ae7f, 28 November 2012 - 06:49 PM.