113 replies to this topic

[crazy87rexsi]

PICS!!!!!!
OVERVIEW:

Compression ratio est. 11.8 - 12.3:1
Block: B16A
CTR pistons
B16a Rods
B16a crank
ACL bearings
ARP rod Bolts
CTR crank pulley
"Breather Box"(black box on back of block, oil/air separator) removed
replaced with Moroso Catch Can setup vented through valve cover
Hasport Mounts w/billet inserts**
GSR block sleeved(81mm or 84mm bore, not sure yet but will be 84mm by the end of it)**

Head: B16A
ARP headstuds
Ported Head
Hondata IM gasket
SK2 IM(port matched)
Blox 76mm TB(matched to IM)
SK2 Composite Fuel Rail
"old skool" RC 310cc
SK2 Pro1 Cams, Pro Series Springs/Retainers, Pro Series Cam Gears
SK2 Hi Comp Valves
4-1 2.5in collector header(cheapy)(port matched)

Electronics:
Converted to OBD1 from pre-OBD
MSD coil
MSD cap
NGK plug wires
also soon to be "race Version tucked" << haha idk had to come up with something cool for my special tucks, all MIL-spec/sheilded wires

Drivetrain: was LS trans will be GSR sooon**
Custom Integra(DC) Linkage/SK2 shifter/Greddy Counter Weight shift knob
Fidanza Flywheel
Exedy PP
ACT 6 puck**
Welded Diff(for drag, but thinking about getting a LSD for the street )
SynchroTech Carbon Syncro's(soon)**
New bearings, seals etc.**
Crappy Innovative axles but need new ones
DSS Axles(I am going to call and see about that)***
MFactory 4.7 Final Drive**

Brakes:
87 teg calipers
Powerslot Rotors
Hawk HPS pads
Techna Fit SS lines
Rear disc soon to come

Suspension:
KYB GR2 shocks
Intrax Springs(rear) soon to be GC's w/20kg springs
Cage**
Energy Suspension Bushings(whole kit)
Rear axle gutted

Wheels/Tires:
Enkei RPF1's 15'(front) soon**
BFG drag radials 225(front) soon**
and something in the rear lol

**=soon to be/work in progress

This is the old setup, there will be a new setup, a full race drag setup...this was a copperhead it will be more like a cobra when its done style_emoticons/default/ph34r.gif hehe

Alright ive been talking about this build since I got the car car last march. The way it starts is bought the car for $500 from a dumb kid. What it needed was an exhaust, headlight, ignition switch, si dash, and most important needed to get started. Got the starting issue solved they put a new t-belt but messed up the cam 90* out. It took another 3-4 months after I got it to get a headlight. After my first ticket for running straight header on the street(and yes it sounds like a honda monster truck, can't hear yourself think at idle) and a faulty inspection sticker an exhaust was made, about 2in pipe with an Apexi muffler that was given to my freind who let me use it(which it wasn't in good shape when he got it anyways, had to do some welding to get it back together which led to its demise). Well time goes on got most of the problems fixed before 08 came around. After many tickets for misc. things which all seemed be exhaust tickets after the Apexi took a ride down the interstate one fall afternoon(it broke off if you didn't catch that). So for 4-6 months had 2in straight pipe(no cat)that stopped at the rear tire. Got that fixed with 2 resonators back2back and 2 1/2in to a skunk2 as it sits now and ive only been pulled over once for it, no silencer and was out on the "cruising road", but let me go cause I didn't drive like a retard also pulled me over because of registered color said red but is black. The paint job I regretfully admit is spray paint but I'm not rocking 2tone primer and and pretty nice red metalic paint. The car was repainted from the origianl red to a dark red with metalic/pearl in it more like burgandy but very nice. When I got it it was primer gray on the back half and the nice paint up front so something had to be done. Ive done all the body work myself, put it this way the only thing I haven't done is the exhaust.
That is most of the history on the car.

other than a lot a clutches ive broke she has never left me stranded for major problems

Edited by crazy87rexsi, 27 June 2012 - 11:26 AM.

[crazy87rexsi]

now to the present

as she sits now I have well over 2000 in her
I/H/E, header wrap on intake and header, adj. cam gear, walboro 255lph fuel pump, magnecor plug wires, ES bushings kit, MSD Blaster SS coil, Autometer digital shift light, Motegi Racing SX7 w/205/50/15 Kumho Escta AST, GSR(14mm) rear swaybar, i think summit racing seats and 4pt harness, ITR radiator(extremely custom mounted), devac, throttle body bored+skipped heater lines, rear is gutted along with bumpers and no carpet but working on getting some carpet(long story why there isn't carpet), steel engine damper+cheaply stiffened mounts, ACT HD Pressure Plate and F1 stage 1 clutch+lightend flywheel ?12-15lb?, DC short shifter w/Greddy CW shift knob, JEM b-c pillar bars, no A/C expect the ac switch everything is gone.......everything, powerslot rotors and hawk HPS pads up front teg, still working on the back just got the calipers(courtesy 1goldteg) so i need rotors and pads powerslot rotors and hawk pads(i think i found hawks for the rear), techna fit ss lines but will be getting goodridges later, KYB GR2 w/intrax springs, and can't forget the ghetto rigged one peice hood i made so the radiator would fit(please don't ask) and S2K sidemarkers, ported intake manifold the entire thing from the throttle body mating to upper to lower and at the head
and an unholy miss that I can't get rid of,thats only at idle-1500? and at fast idle once I bring it over 1500 it stops, #2 cyl is just gay thats what I have concluded (checked everything its all good)

Edited by crazy87rexsi, 03 February 2009 - 02:25 PM.

[crazy87rexsi]

As most of you know back in june I was rear ended by a gov't vehicle, 4-5 months later I got payed the car is fixed thanks to blu84rex hooked me up with taillights and filler piece, I spent somewhere around 20-30 hrs fixing the back, about 2 days total.........its been awhile since I have seen the sexiness of 1G from the back

But where they messed up is they didn't expect 95% of it to be spent on what is to be(maybe they did but not what I have)

To acompany the B16A w/lsd tranny(if someone know the lsd tranny code let me know)is a simphany of parts that made me tingle when I laid eyes on them

Lets begin the endeavor of bliss there is no starting point its all good
N1 crank pulley, Fidanza flywheel 7.5lb+Exedy Stg1, 4-1 header w/2.5in collector/ 1 11/16in primary, DHracing headgasket bumps comp. to 11.0:1, Hondata Intake gasket, Skunk2 Intake, Blox 76mm(thats 3in)Throttle Body, ARP head studs, Zdyne ECU, Skunk 2 Tuner stg2 Cams w/springs and retainers, PnP w/5 angle valve job
All of that get hooked the chassis by way of Inovative Motor Mounts and axles
I will do a tune-up with gaskets and probaly plug wires and cap to run external coil
There is probaly more but I can't remeber as I am still lost thinking about the sexyness of parts at the house
when the motor comes out a 95 GSR MC/Booster will be replacing the stock(tried with it in but need more room)

Help on it would be appreciated, for wiring and general questions

But what comes for it later is what scares me the most(boost on a 1700lb fwd car)(mostly cause of c8v6c)
First an OBD1 conversion, then as money comes together BOOST......... I want a diff. headgasket of coarse to lower the comp.back down, I may build it when I get Boost or run it for a while with low boost then build the crap out of it, 9.0 pistons, rods, knife edge crank, sleeve the block, headwork what everelse I can do to get 500whp probaly get a B20 block and use my B16 head

Edited by crazy87rexsi, 16 March 2009 - 12:15 PM.

[fritt]

your car sounds pretty sick post some pictures. but if you want 500whp with a b20 block your going to need aftermarket sleeves, the stock ones are thin

[E-Man]

Quite a few B series trannys came with LSD. Choose wisely as the gearing may be a bit tall for turbo applications.

Trust me....

Elliot

[crazy87rexsi]

im going with the OBD0 B16A w/lsd tranny from a kinda local engine warehouse-to save money on shipping
japaneseengineimport.com is looking to be my best bet as far as price and being close

but porbaly not going boost soon its going be awhile so i can expeiriment with different combos

and will get pictures some time idk.........got to borrow a camera

[crazy87rexsi]

UPDATE: Figured the miss out on cylinder #2

Well last week i'm in my auto class(im a senior in high school)and thinking that I still need to find out what is causing the miss, after I had already checked compression a dry and running compression test all were good, checked vacuum at the manifold perfect, check fuel pressure(excessed b/c of the fuel pump), checked voltage to injector it was good, also swapped injectors between 2 cyl. and nothing, spark is good, checked for vacuum leaks nothing....sealed tighter than a fat chick to a twinky. I had checked all of this about a month or so before, so I just gave up and said f it it will be ok.....well as some of you are as am I, I hated the fact of just giving up and letting something so simple get by me plus it is EXTREMELY ignoring and I hate leaving things unfinished. Alright back to last week, I finally got around to doing a leak down which should have been on the list to do, but b/c compression and vacuum was good never figured it could be a base engine operation failure. I started on #4 hooked the air up..............(snap-on leak down tester)guage shows 100psi and leak % at a minumum, now on to #2 the problem cylinder, I hook up the air gritting my teeth..........................ppppppppppppsssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhh SON OF A B*****, I check the intake......no leaks, I check #3 & #1 spark plug holes no leaks, but I still hear it just to make sure I go to the back of the car, stick my ear to the exhaust and I hear it laughing at me, mocking me saying haha now you gotta pull the head off . Good thing is it is only a 6psi drop and the % guage shows 20-25% leak(the main thing is the 6psi drop) so its a small leak which is good and thats why it only misses closer to idle. So what I have planned is to regrind valve/replace if I have to(cause I am a cheap, broke asshole), replace water pump and some sealsin the head where there are some oil leaks and best of all do a super sweet sort of P&P(probaly more of a gasket match at the head and top of the intake)

Before anyone asks I will answer now:
The reason I am being cheap on this is 1. I am broke and looking for a job 2. Obvious reason (whole reason of this thread) 3. And last but not least that motor will get it's due sooner or later(will be apart of the built EW club)

[crazy87rexsi]

UPDATE OF THE UPDATE:
As of Monday morning I started tearing apart the motor and with much force finally got the head off of the block for the first time in 20 years(fought with the bastard for an hour trying to get them seperated then I found a pry bar and that selttled that)
As my teacher and I went to get to work on the head to grind the valve seats we found that we could not find the the valve seat angle and a cutter small enough so my teacher resorted to trying to lap the valve seat with the new exhaust valve while I ported out the intake manifold. The valve seat on the head was pitted and the after later inspection(after everything went back together and running) of the old exhaust valve found that it was only sealing on a little portion of the seat and there is some wear on the stem but only enough to eat at the coating. Which now leads me to suspect valve guide issues or my teacher thinks there could be some head problems.
It took two days of work to finish, 20 year old headgasket removal issues and problems with timing, a good 10 hours of work. This was all done at my tech school so work time is limited.
Tuesday night when I everything back together, reset valve clearances before intial start-up, I fired her up and it was going some weird "caming" idling after some time I got the idling issue fixed it started to idle properly and started to miss again but I had not yet to set distributor timing.
I had some timing belt line up issues,where the crank and cam set back to there 1 cyl. TDC line up but when the timing belt got tension on it and went through a couple rotations I would have the cam 1-2 teeth advanced or retarded never where it is supposed to be. When I got the car the guy gave me an adjustable cam gear, Its an off brand "Focuz" and I put that on there to correct that issue from when I first got the car(If you don't know read the first post for the history of the car) but Im wondering if that cam gear is even for that car because I had some fitment issues with clearance of the cam to the valve cover but a washer solved that.Just wondering if this timing line up issue is the same for everyone else?
Other than the timing issue everything else is good the port on the intake worked really well and it runs fine(which I got it to 1 tooth advanced)



When I do my taxes I will use that money to get the motor and will start posting on the half way rebuild of the B16.(While thinking: should I get cams )

Edited by crazy87rexsi, 21 January 2009 - 11:05 AM.

[icebox187]

yeh, b16 cams suck... but if your gonna buy new you might as well go ahead and get a whole damn endyn head in my opinion.... theoldone.com
as for the lsd on b16 obd0 it is a y1 with lsd stamped on the case... you can convert a ys1 to a cable s80 type r lsd and there are writeups abound about how to do it, but you need both tranny's and new bearing and seal kits to do it all.... if i were you i would go to pick n pull in va beach and look for any old integra cable tranny and then send that off to gearspeed for a rebuild, carbon syncros, and lsd install, they have the wavetrac (formerly quaife) lsd wich is better than a stock y1 or s80 lsd anyway, plus the'll gear it however you want, its gonna cost you though, but you'll have a good tranny that will last through any motor you throw at it

[crazy87rexsi]

Im just gonna gasket match the head for now but as time goes I will probaly trade for another head or do something........??
Thanks for tranny code, because of the tight budget Im on I wish I could rebuild the tranny But I just can't afford and hold up for awhile.

I was thinking Skunk2 Tuner Stage 1 cams just to help the more airflow coming in, but I would do a full valvetrain with it too. A grand for is alot just for the head right now.

[poweredbyhonda22]

Im just gonna gasket match the head for now but as time goes I will probaly trade for another head or do something........??
Thanks for tranny code, because of the tight budget Im on I wish I could rebuild the tranny But I just can't afford and hold up for awhile.

I was thinking Skunk2 Tuner Stage 1 cams just to help the more airflow coming in, but I would do a full valvetrain with it too. A grand for is alot just for the head right now.

funny here in canada i run my car with a striaght pipe with a 3 1/2 inch boom tube 24/7 and have never gotten a noise voilation ticket and i tkae it up the carbed 1.5 to 7500 in 1st and seconds all the time

[OG Wagon]

Build sounds great. ANY PICS?!

[crazy87rexsi]

working on getting pics just have to get a camera first

[BigOrange]

Hell yea dude sounds good!!! hurry up and get your b16 from the tax fairy!!

Edited by BigOrange, 30 January 2009 - 12:19 AM.

[crazy87rexsi]

doing taxes next week so hopefully the part-time taxes are good
but i still need axles, linkage, hubs and the zdyne ecu
tax money is getting saved to buy the motor and tranny so then i will have parts to sell off of it
ECU, any A/C and P/S stuff, header, flywheel w/clutch, crank pulley, intake manifold w/throttle body(tps to) no other sensors
so when i get the motor all that will be for sale

Edited by crazy87rexsi, 10 February 2009 - 09:22 AM.