This bolts on top of the lower runner assembly, right?

 

Depending on how nerdy you are, get yourself the trial of SolidWorks, and 3d print that s.o.b. out.  Heat shouldn't be a problem there.

 

I would estimate your material cost in aluminum to be almost $175, and then the machining and welding your design requires... So 3d might be a viable alternative.

 

  You can use Rivnuts or Heli-coils for all your fastener points.  As a bonus you can do the right thing and print out trumpets that extend off the rounded plenum walls- no corners.

 

Btw, I had thoughts of doing this before the itb project...

 

Matt

 

Daytona was awesome!

 

I knew before we got there that we would hit the aero wall, I just didn't know at what rpm.  When our first driver went out and reported that he was turning 4k rpm's on the pace lap, I got a little worried.  As it turned out, we didn't run out of steam until 6k in 5th gear, and while not as fast as most of the bmw's, it would put shame to the miatas out there.

 

We were doing driver changes every hour and fifteen, and using around 7 gallons of the 110oct fuel.  That was a lot more than the old set-up, and after about 6 hours of running smooth, (which has also never happened) we realized we were going to run out of fuel 2 hours short of the 14 hours.  No one was running anything but 93, so I sent one of the guys out for gas.  I was going to start cutting our remaining 35 gallons of 110oct  4:1 with the 93oct.

 

Until I saw the car come in tucking the driver front tire.  Turns out we snapped the friggin' torsion bar!

 

 

 

After about an hour and a half of ways to salvage the suspension, I resorted to locking it down.

 

Anyone know the spring rate of a 27mm impact socket?

 

It drove ok, the banking being the easy part, but it had no traction through third gear on the flats.  It just spun the crap out of the passenger tire because of the torson diff, and didn't want to turn right on the road course.

 

We finished 56th out of 123.

 

 

 

The itb's worked great.  At full load our afr's were hanging out right at high 13's and low 14's, which I feel is acceptable for the fuel we were using.  I only got hints of reversion through the "Bus Stop", where I was part throttle, but still under de-cel.  The ghetto afc also performed pretty solid. All in all, I was very happy with how it all worked.  

 

Good times,

Matt

 

 

 

Anyone else making this kind of power from an ew?

After the whole dyno awesomeness, I worked on the ghetto afc. 

 

Here is a pic of the idle position switch:

 

 

At idle the switch is engaged, and it bypasses the map 5v supply through a resistor knocking it down a volt.

 

 

 

The original Natty Six-Pack has been swapped for the fpr clearance duct / ram air(?) itb inlet.

 

 

 

 

later, matt

Once we determined that it was not backfiring in the intake we never worried about the occasional spray and I learned to keep the motor in the upper RPM range.  How aggressive is your cam?

 

We ran 112 octane as well - our motors were ~12.5:1 CR.  Have you fly cut your head and decked the block?  If so, by how much?  What piston are you running?  I can help you figure out your CR.

 

Kirk

 

 

We are using a Web regrind, .412 lift, 252 duration.  Here is the full cam card:

http://www.webcamsha...066_000311.html

 

I think the block has been cleaned up, and the head has been decked so many times that it's into the threaded boss under the timing cover.  It's a Pm3 piston from the 92-95 civic dx d15b7, and it sticks out over the deck 1mm.  The head gasket is .055 thousands.  I'm familiar with the correct way to figure out the compression ratio by cc'ing the head and stuff, I just haven't done it. 

 

Is the 112 leaded?  Do you have pics of your set-up?

 

 

On pg2 you said you guys tried 3dgr cam adv. on the dyno but the engine didn't like it so you moved it back to 0dgr.  Did you also try slightly retarding the cam?  I was under the impression that was what some racers did to shift the powerband upwards because of the later closing of the intake valves.  Not sure how that would affect the reversion issues you seem to be having.  Would it help to have something like a fast idle stop on the throttle shaft to avoid pulling such high vacuum under braking, or is reversion mostly rpm related due to being "off the cam"? 

 

Ah...the two things I regret not doing at the dyno were retarding the cam, and pulling timing.  After advancing the cam and seeing no gain, I retarded it a few degrees - I forget how much.  It was hard to fire up and ran pretty rough, the dyno guy was like "sounds like a waste of time", and I agreed, but I forgot that by doing so I pulled a bunch of ignition timing out and didn't reset the distributor.  So we aborted that idea.  Lesson learned...

 

I also wish I had pulled a few degrees of ignition out to see how it affected everything.  There is a good chance I smoked the engine on the dyno because we were caught up in the moment making almost 50 more hp, and stupid me never looked at the plugs in between dyno and track days.  Another lesson learned...

 

The reversion could be so many things.  On the video it looked like it occured at a few points on the rpm scale, and it definately happened on a certain wot/lift/wot corner at The FIRM. The brake booster isn't hooked up fwiw...

 

I've read crap that the reversion problem was all in the exhaust collector for some other dude.  Retarding the cam, running more lash on the intake valves, intake trumpets, and hooking the vacuum ignition advance back up are all possible solutions.

 

Later, Matt

What is the challenge, keeping the fuel in the intake?

 

I have not done the math to figure out the cr, but the cylinders were making anywhere between 235 - 245 psi compression.  I'm guessing around 14-1.

 

We found some 112 octane locally.  I'll get more info on it soon.

 

Did it ever worry you about spitting out raw fuel in the engine bay?  Scares the crap outta me...

 

Later, Matt

It may be a cam timing issue, where the intake valve is opening too early while the piston is still coming up. 

 

Our compression was north of 235psi, and while I'm going to pull a couple of degrees out, I don't want to cut it's nuts off pulling 10 degrees out just to run cheaper fuel.

 

I also found out last night the head was warped and we have a broken #2 ringland.

 

Did I mention Chumpcar Daytona is May 26?

 

Later, Matt

Yeah.

 

Went to a track day at The FIRM in Starke, Fl.  Found out the hard way 100 octane wouldn't support the compression we have.  Melted #2 sparkplug and sent it through tthe exhaust valve.  Meanwhile we got a Cometic .88 headgasket, and had sealing problems, so we are going back to a Fel-pro and are going to run 110.

 

Also put a Go-Pro under the hood after we notice 4 perfect circles of melted paint on the firewall.  We found Evil reversion issues we are hoping to solve with inlet trumpets that we designed with Solidwprks and had 3-d printed.  Here is that video.

 

 

I also incorporated a microswitch on the throttle at idle to pull voltage from the map signal - ghetto afc.

 

Gotta go to work

Later, Matt

See it through.  What part are you having trouble with?

 

later, matt

like

I'm hoping someone out there knows the connecting rod length of the ew4.  The Googlez failed on this one...

 

Later, Matt

 

 

Edit-  137mm

The LC-1 is a wideband controller...the 1v output from it "simulates" a narrow band o2 sensor output, but with better resolution.  A 1-wire o2 sensor is only good at reading .5volts.  I can explain more if you want...

 

There is also a high speed gauge output too.

 

 

For us, the Integra ecu/injector combo has been fine for several builds. It idled stoich on all the old ew-4 manifold builds.  I fired up a stock 3g civic si we have, and it pulled 20" of vacuum, vs. our 15" on the itb engine, and that's why we idle rich- less map signal..  I tried to trim out fuel pressure to clean up the idle, but it was way too lean under load.  In reality, the engine is now on the verge of out-flowing the injectors.  There were a few spots that could have used more fuel, even at 53 psid rail pressure.  We are way beyond oem crx injectors...

 

later, matt

Stock MAP sensor, Innovate LC-1 using the 1volt simulated output to the ecu.  Integra ecu and injectors at 48 psi idle.  The sensors are fine, and the ecu isn't that bad.  I've had good luck manipulating it on past turbo builds via MAP signal modification and different injectors.

 

I'd still like to find some sort of dirt cheap inlet trumpet...

 

We've done a few nitrous ew-4's before, and this combo makes as much power as they did on the bottle.  45 more hp and 26 more lb/ft, I'm excited to see how it runs on the track.

 

Later, Matt

Getting ready for the dyno involved fixing a few things.  The throttle plates were binding, better brackets, throttle stop, blah blah blah...

 

Ok, screw the bs, time for the numbers.

 

On a Mustang Dyno!!!  Dynojets usually always read higher due to less friction...

Old combo from a year ago 92hp 92 tq vs. new combo 137hp 118tq

 

The Mustang dyno has two rollers

 

A little bit of cage...

 

 

Good dyno videos...Click to watch.

 

 

 

It rolled onto the dyno very happy.  Nothing we did during the session made more power.  It didn't like any more advance than 23dg static timing (32 adv).  It didn't like 3dg cam advance either (keeping ignition timing the same).  Afr's were something we were also happy with and didn't adjust.  It still idles rich, but under acceleration load started out high 12's, into an leaner mid rpm spot of 13.7's and fattened out to low 13's up top.  If I really want to worry about the idle, I'll put a micro switch on the throttle and trim back some MAP signal.

 

Track day is next....hellz yeah

 

later, matt

Finally back after the holidaze. It seems my elves put everything back together for me, and they did it right. Bonus.



It also seems my dial in strategy worked out. Extra bonus. It now sounds like an angry Honda, not a pissed off Subaru, just the way it should.

http://s75.beta.phot...4e5690.mp4.html

But now with everything plumbed back correctly, it runs way too rich, like 9's. We added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, backed it down from 48psi to 37psi, and it now idles high 10's low 11's.

With a vacuum gauge tied in showing MAP vacuum, we saw about -15" hg, and the reading was very smooth, but I'm not sure if it's low enough with the cam regrind and the itb's.

Can anyone chime in with vacuum readings on their ew-4 intake manifold at idle?

Later, Matt

<sup>Some thoughts here,
You feel the engine is flooding. What does the tail pipe smell like during all this?

Usually when you hold open the throttle during cranking, the ecu will enter flood clear mode, where it doesn't inject fuel.

I can see only one reason why the ecu would behave differently between key start vs. push start. It's all rpm based, like 200rpm is crank mode (richer than run mode), and at 400+rpm it transitions to run mode. So are you push starting it down a big hill, where it would be more than 400rpm?? But it's cold out, and engines need more fuel to start at those temperatures. None of that makes sense.

I'm betting you have a poor electrical connection somewhere. Start with the grounds. Look at the main ground from battery to chassis and engine, and check the main relay gound (brown wires) on the head near the coolant temp sensors. Maybe during cranking there is a nasty voltage drop to the ecu or main relay, and thats why it push starts. A good multimeter is your friend...

later, matt</sup>

They all came off as one unit, and at one point in time they were probably all synced up. But even if they were still on the motorcycle, eventually they would need to be re-tuned.

Little inconsistencies between cylinders, like valve lash, will effect how they pull vacuum, so I'm pretty certain however I cobbled this together it would still need tuning.

If I would have kept the motorcycle spacing, The outer runners would be a little longer, and in my mind that seemed to be a bad thing. I also would have needed to use the cbr fuel rail, and it had a different pressure regulator assembly that I wasn't too fond of.

I jumped into the deep end, and now I need to learn to swim .

I appreciate the input,

later, matt

The gauges arrived, and we hooked them up according to the plan. 18" on the map sensor was too lean to start the engine. 13" was the magic vacuum on the map sensor to let us start, idle and crack the throttle during adjustments.

First off, the gauges are in centimeters. Second, I've never done this before...
Cylinders 3 and 4 were pulling 60cm, and 1 and 2 were pulling 20cm, meaning the 3 and 4 throttle plates were completely closed, and the vacuum on them was closing them to the point of completely sealed, and 1 and 2 were doing all the work. It took a few minutes to figure out which way to turn the screws, and I started to balance everyone out. But every time I got them close, the idle would be way too high, like 2000+ rpm's with the main idle adjuster backed all the way out.

After an hour of fail, I pulled the tb's off the manifold and looked at them with a light behind the plates. It was just wrong. The light showed #4 was the tightest seal, gradualy opening up more each plate up to #1. The throttle cable is coupled the the number 4. I figured start there, and it would be a cascading effect down the line. What I didn't figure on was when I cranked down an adjuster to close it, it would exert pressure on the other tb's messing up any previous adjustment, making the others open a bit.

I dialed everyone down to an almost tight seal visually, with a flashlight behind the throttle plates. I found that the slightest change, like 1/8 of a turn, would have a dramatic effect on the adjacent plates. Hopefully this is my new zero point.

So thats where we are at. More to come,

Matt

So, I started it up last night, and it ran well, but sounds like my subie. Idled 14's afr after warm-up. Short story long, the #3 and 4 holes run about 80 degrees cooler than the 1 and 2 using a temp gun on the header. We swapped the plugs, wires, and injectors around to see if the problem moved, but it didn't. Then we did a compression test...



Yeah, the coldest cylinder just made 255psi on ten cranks. Everyone else was around 240 psi. Pretty sure that isn't the problem...

We've ordered a 4 vacuum gauge manifold from teh ebay. My plan is to run each gauge to it's own tb, use a hand-held vacuum pump on the map sensor to bring it down to 18" or so to fake a good idle signal, and not worry about the fuel pressure regulator for syncing them together. I also flipped some bolts around on my fuel rail adaptor plates so I can get to my adjusters at idle.

I figure that you can't tune each tb when they are all tied together normally through the mini manifold (aka balance tube) that feeds the map and pressure regulator, right?

later, matt

From the other night...


















Dyno time should be next, but with the holidays, I'm not sure how soon...

later, matt

Ok, I know it seems obvious, but you need to wait for the ecu to get through start/after start/ warm-up sequence before you go and mess with it.

I found a cheat for my set-up. I can cycle the throttle bodies to almost wide open to find the correct angle for a long screwdriver on the throttle plate adjusters. No drilling through the adaptors...

By the hand over inlet method, (and the car warmed up)I have them tweaked even enough now it idles in the 14's around 1k rpm's. Now each throttle body seems to pull a similar amount of vacuum. With a vacuum gauge hooked up to the manifold, it bounces as deep as 20" when it idles the cleanest.

It is an angry little bastard on the street so far. We made a few pulls, and it melts the new 205r15 star specs rolling through first and most of second gear...

more to follow, matt

A 4x4 piece of timber 6 feet long with two big dudes on either end worked for us at Lemons one year. Not as bad as it sounds...

later, matt

Another one of the nice things about these particular throttle bodies- they have springs on both sides of each actuator arm. At WOT, each throttle plate will bottom out at its own internal stop, and the upper spring on the actuator arm absorbs and negates any differences that are dialed in for the throttle body's idle settings.

Yes, it's a "race car". but I know I can tune it to idle better than 9's on the wideband with some simple tweaking on the throttle plates...

later, matt

They were four separate ones. Definately the way to go if you are looking for some because the injector spacing isn't identical. The two center tb's (cyl's 2 and 3) are closer together than cyl's 1, 2 and cyl's 3, 4.

later, matt