16 replies to this topic

[hosmer]

anyone running it?

I was thinking it'd be nice on my planned build

(low) boosted D16A1 (browntop)
ZC cams and intake manifold

[Doodson]

I ran Megasquirt on the racecar for awhile and only had one issue because it did not have a surge protector. But that was fixed with a 3$ part.
I now run a chipped stock Honda ECU

[jsgprod]

I've been using Megasquirt for over three years. I just ran my first event this past weekend using the newer MSII chip with the EDIS wasted spark ignition....

It was flawless .

Of course the fact that I had to run the race on three cylinders had absolutely NOTHING to do with the MS, thank goodness.

Jay

[King D]

I've been using Megasquirt for over three years. I just ran my first event this past weekend using the newer MSII chip with the EDIS wasted spark ignition....

Any details on the mounting of your crank trigger for EDIS? I'll be running MegaJolt as soon as i make a new pully to mount up trigger wheel.

[jsgprod]

I can get some pics of it in the next few days and post 'em.

[oldschoolimport]

subscribed. I'm in limbo between using an AFC, black-top electronics with turbo edit, or megasquirt.

[D Jaws II]

I can get some pics of it in the next few days and post 'em.

Information on this will be good to read. Looking forward to the pics as well.


Cheers,


Donnie

[jsgprod]

I did this last night and clicked on preview post and it looked fine... then I forgot to hit add reply so...........

Here's some pics of the crank trigger set-up I'm using now. Like I mentioned, it's based one the Ford EDIS system that's controlled by the Megasquirt. The trigger wheel I have is one that I found on Ebay quite a while back, I haven't seen this same one on there again since but I guarantee it was a lot easier to mount than the original one that came on the Ford vehicles would have been. I do not run an alternator so it's mounted to a turned down stock front pulley with four 6mm bolts. I had to add some spacers between the old pulley and the trigger wheel to get it near the centerline of the pick-up. The pick-up is a stock Ford replacement (the original was slightly damaged) and it only costs around $20! The EDIS control unit I got in the local salvage yard for around $30, then last weekend while we were at Daytona I asked my brother to run down to the local u-pull-it to see if they had any of them. (there was a strange very small issue I was dealing with) He came back later with TWO of them that only cost me $23 !

I am not using the EDIS coils, they are small weird things with some very peculiar terminals that Ford put on them for the wires. I bought this Neon coil, that uses standard plug wire terminals, and then a set of V8, make it yourself wires. I now have two sets of wires for about the same price (maybe less) than ONE set of the EDIS wires. I HATE proprietary design (Sony and Canon come to mind).

The bracket is something I put together from some stuff I had laying around. I wanted to avoid any high frequency vibrations that could cause problems so it's made from 1/2" and 3/8" thick sections of aluminum that I had to bolt together. My son didn't have his welding job at the time but as soon as I get an argon tank and hook up the AC plug for my Tig he's going to weld this thing into one piece for me.

Here's the pics I promised:

[crxls]

why not just tap a hole through the bell housing and let the crank sensor read off of the flywheel teeth? is it actually counting number of teeth or just sensing rotational movement? are these needed parts found on any/all distributorless ford's or can you tell us exactly what vehicles to get the parts from? im assuming i can use this system on my OBD1 B series crx right? im very interested in this just for the sake of getting rid of honda's somewhat scrappy and outdated distributor's but at the same time i kind of see it as "if it works, dont fix it" so im undecided if i want to do this or not. thanks.

[jsgprod]

why not just tap a hole through the bell housing and let the crank sensor read off of the flywheel teeth? is it actually counting number of teeth or just sensing rotational movement? are these needed parts found on any/all distributorless ford's or can you tell us exactly what vehicles to get the parts from? im assuming i can use this system on my OBD1 B series crx right? im very interested in this just for the sake of getting rid of honda's somewhat scrappy and outdated distributor's but at the same time i kind of see it as "if it works, dont fix it" so im undecided if i want to do this or not. thanks.

Can't do that because if you take a close look at the trigger wheel, there's a tooth missing. These use a 36-1 tooth count and it uses that missing tooth to reference where #1 cylinder is. The computer then adjusts the timing according to how you set up you timing curve with the MS software.

If you have OBD1 on your car don't all those have electronically controlled distributors? With the right software you can adjust those where you want also, you just have to use one coil, which BTW is more than sufficient in a lot of cases of to and beyond 10,000rpm.

The EDIS-4 parts I'm using are from the early 90's (92-95?) ford Escort with the 1.9L engine (I think that one was a Mazda engine, not sure).

Jay

[Computer]

no the 1.9 was a sohc ford motor...

the 1.8 dohc was mazda, from the 2g escort GT.

[Richard]

my car, when it finally goes back together, is going to be running megajolt w/ ford edis-4 ignition, and a vafc2 for fuel control.

out of your three choices though, for ease of use i would convert to a blacktop electronics, then go obd-1 and use hondata.

[rileyescobar]

Can't do that because if you take a close look at the trigger wheel, there's a tooth missing. These use a 36-1 tooth count and it uses that missing tooth to reference where #1 cylinder is. The computer then adjusts the timing according to how you set up you timing curve with the MS software.

If you have OBD1 on your car don't all those have electronically controlled distributors? With the right software you can adjust those where you want also, you just have to use one coil, which BTW is more than sufficient in a lot of cases of to and beyond 10,000rpm.

The EDIS-4 parts I'm using are from the early 90's (92-95?) ford Escort with the 1.9L engine (I think that one was a Mazda engine, not sure).

Jay

aah,you mean the 91-96 ford cvh 1.9....i know more about that engine than i'd like to admit...lol

[King D]

The trigger wheel I have is one that I found on Ebay quite a while back, I haven't seen this same one on there again since but I guarantee it was a lot easier to mount than the original one that came on the Ford vehicles would have been. I do not run an alternator so it's mounted to a turned down stock front pulley with four 6mm bolts.

No alternator = easy peasy.

Nice setup. I don't mind the EDIS coilpack... it's easy to remove the propriatary terminals, and swap them to stock plug wires. Great thing about the EDIS components, they are cheap, and readily available and many junk yards.

[jsgprod]

my car, when it finally goes back together, is going to be running megajolt w/ ford edis-4 ignition, and a vafc2 for fuel control.

out of your three choices though, for ease of use i would convert to a blacktop electronics, then go obd-1 and use hondata.

I have a megajolt on the shelf in my garage that didn't work from day one. It would never run smoothly or operate the advance correctly. I always wondered if it was my EDIS unit until I finally hooked up the MSII, thankfully it worked as it should have from the first time I cranked it.