17 replies to this topic

[tummen]

I have sourch around in the forum for some pictures that show how you do the "torsionbar weld"

I found some pictures  but i cant view them for some reason.

Is there anyone who have pictures and can post or perhaps mail them to me.

Thanks

Tomas

[RETROCRX]

You need to weld in this area....

 

 

Make sure the car is on level ground when you do this.  If it isn't you will preload the rear suspension.  To be certain, disconnect the linkage from the trailing arm and weld the torsion bar at it's nominal "at rest" position

 

It should look like this when done....

 

 

Sorry for the crap pics......I took these over 10 years ago!

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Screech]

[RETROCRX]

Atta boy Screech!  That's a MUCH better pic than I could find

[PuddleSkipper]

Chedda sells axle lockers which does the same but isn't permanent.

[Screech]

Well, I find many of the rear bars (at least the ones in my cars) to be bad anyway. So if the bar is bad the cost to weld/cut is less that locker. Linked video shows the play mine had, it should be a rotational movement, not the whole arm shifting side to side like it did before I welded it.

http://screech.me/my_swap/100_1429.mov

[tummen]

BIG thanks guy`s!

This was exactly what i wanted.

Will be next mod to my car

 

TJ

[cbstdscott]

May I speak as a member of the Loyal Opposition?

 

Many, many people on this forum highly recommend welding or adding a plate to the right rear axle pivot point. And all of their anecdotal information indicates that they are VERY pleased with the results.

 

I have taken an opposite path. I removed my internal torsion bar "sway bar" and replaced it with a conventional external sway bar, similar to the one available from Addco. I have left the pivot bearing and its function  as intended by the factory. I have had excellent results.

 

Before you make a modification that may not be easy to reverse, please consider that the Honda factory and the Mugen Racing team DID NOT fuse that pivot point.

 

Scott

[RETROCRX]

Probably because they weren't allowed to by the rules of the class the car was built to.

 

For me to achieve the correct amount of rear roll stiffness using your method I would need a very stout rear sway bar.

 

Based on the fact that I run a welded beam AND an external rear sway bar.

[Screech]

Scott did you watch my video? I would never what to undo the weld for a bar with that play anyway. 

[cbstdscott]

All I can do is report must findings. I do not make judgements.

If it works for you, go for. All I can say is that found an improvement my way.

[CRXfanatic]

Same here... Works very well for me. 

 

 

 

Based on the fact that I run a welded beam AND an external rear sway bar.

[jjamiemmark]

 

Before you make a modification that may not be easy to reverse, please consider that the Honda factory and the Mugen Racing team DID NOT fuse that pivot point.

 

Scott

 

Did Mugen or the Honda team Remove the torsion bar? NO  but they did offer a bigger rear torsion bar.

[tummen]

I have read a number of threads in the subject and thought it over a couples of times and i will weld my rearaxel.

There are other cars that have "stiff" axels from factory so i dont think that it will be a big issue + that i have another donor car so i have a spare axel if i want to change back.

 

TJ

Edited by tummen, 22 September 2013 - 10:50 AM.

[JEA86]

Probably because they weren't allowed to by the rules of the class the car was built to.
 
For me to achieve the correct amount of rear roll stiffness using your method I would need a very stout rear sway bar.
 
Based on the fact that I run a welded beam AND an external rear sway bar.

Not to start a debate, but it was told that a rear sway bar and axle locker were overkill? Was I misinformed? I just run a welded rear axle.