52 replies to this topic

[chedda_j]

Rear Integra Brake Swap how-to

So after many many searches, and many topics reviewed. I would say there is no "complete" thread on how to do the Integra disc swap into the rear.

First of all you need the following parts from a 1986-1989 Acura Integra.

Rear Hubs or just the extended lug nuts
Rear Brake Shields
Rear Calipers
Rear E-Brake Cables
Rear Rotors
Rear Pads
Proportioning Valve
Rear Brake Lines

Obviously the easiest way to do this swap would be to remove the entire axle from an Integra and swap it in minus the trailing arms. But because these cars are so hard to find, alteast around here, this is the alternative. All the parts listed above can be baught bran new, either from Rock-Auto or from your honda dealership. For my swap, Im going to use a combination between used and new parts. I will be using used hubs, shields, and cables. The Rotors and Pads are new from Brake Labs.

You will also need the following tools

Flat screwdriver
Metric Socket Set
Metric Wrench Set
Line Wrench (10mm)
1 1/4" socket/wrench
Floor Jack
Jack Stand
Penetrating Lube
Wheel Wrench

Note: this thread also shows how to fully rebuild the Calipers, including part numbers and a step by step.

Links for parts needed:

Stainless Brake Lines

Part Numbers for Caliper Rebuilds

2 x Dorman D351783
1 x Dorman HW16011

Wheel Studs

1 x 610-408

Brake Mount Adapter Studs M11 to 7/16 (note you need to use two longer studs when doing swap, not sourced yet other than on stock integra)

6 x 610-157
7/16" Socket Head Allen bolts, measure length, order from Hardware Store. 2pcs. 


Continued on the next post.

[chedda_j]

Now that you have all your parts, continue by getting your car onto level ground. Put the shifter into gear to prevent rolling, and remove your negative battery cable (prevents accidental starts). Loosen the rear tire lug nuts slightly. Now position your floor jack under the rear trailing arm mount on one side and lift the car untill the wheel is free. Position the jack stand to support the cars weight and lower the jack. Now remove the wheel to access the brake drum.

Now slide the brake drum off of the brake assembly. It should come easily, as long as you dont have the e-brake applied. Once removed, it will look like this.



Now you need to remove the hub. Start by removing the hub-cap. Use a flat screw-driver and tap it with a hammer to remove the cap.

Time to remove the Hub Nut. Use your flat screw driver to remove the indented part of the nut.



Now you can remove the nut. I use a standard socket/wrench because I dont have a large enough metric socket. The standard size is 1 1/4".



Now slide the hub off the stub axle.



You can remove the spring clips that hold the brake shoe assembly to the brake shield with a pair of needle nose pliers. First compress the spring, then turn the retainer.



It should look like this when done.



Ok this is where I remove the Wheel Cylinder (the hydraulic two way piston between the brake shoes). Start by removing the Wheel Cylinder brake line. A 10mm line wrench is best, but you can use a 10mm open end wrench, but its likely to strip if your not carefull. Start by removing the rear clip with a flat screw driver.



Now use your wrench to remove the brake line.






Continued on the next post.

[chedda_j]

Now you can remove the rest of the brake line if you feel like it. You dont really need to because you wont be reusing the wheel cylinder, but I removed it so the wheel cylinder can be removed a little easier.



Remove the bolts from the rear of the wheel cylinder with an box ended 10mm



Now you can slide the brake shoes assembly down and out. I like to keep them complete, incase I need to use them again on something else. The e-brake cable is slid out of the brake shoe assembly by rotating the entire assembly.



Now on to removing the brake shield. I find it a little easier to remove the entire trailing arm while doing this, its only one more bolt. The hub will look like this before removal.



Remove the stub axle nuts using a 14mm socket.



Remove the trailing arm with a 17mm socket and ratchet.



Now remove the rubber bushing that holds the brake cable in.



And remove the E-Brake cable from the brake shield. This is a little tricky. I remove it by using a flat screw driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. First pry behind the ebrake cable, then use the pliers to compress the retainer fingers on the inside of the brake shield.



Remove the brake shield with a simple nudge with a hammer.

[chedda_j]

So I chose to buy drilled and slotted rotors. The ones from brake labs are a reasonable alternative to the racing altertnative. The pads are ceramic, not bi-metalic like most after market pads. I will have more photos and instructions as parts arrive.

[Buford]

Wait till you get to modifying (shortening) the Teg hand brake cable!!

[RETROCRX]

Wait till you get to modifying (shortening) the Teg hand brake cable!!

If you get creative with routing you don't need to shorten them

And Chedda, I did a write-up on rear discs years ago......maybe you should add your stuff to that post

Big Brake Sticky Post

Rob

[Buford]

If you get creative with routing you don't need to shorten them

And Chedda, I did a write-up on rear discs years ago......maybe you should add your stuff to that post

Big Brake Sticky Post

Rob

I shortend mine, at the hand brake side so everything was neat and tidy.

[chedda_j]

If you get creative with routing you don't need to shorten them

And Chedda, I did a write-up on rear discs years ago......maybe you should add your stuff to that post

Big Brake Sticky Post

Rob

Damn it. Delete this thread...

Or maybe I can salvage this for my spherical how to thread.

Although maybe i will continue because you cannot comment on your old.thread any more so.we can update some of the information from 10 years ago.

[anjin]

Like Retrocrx posted, on the e-brake cables, you cross them over to the other side which takes a bit of length out, and then play with the routes and tie down points on the underbody. Used his guide a few years ago.


Nice to have an update however, particularly as parts seem to be an issue now, and it's not a swap in of the whole axle.

You going to repack the bearings? That would be a worthwhile addition if you go there (I've done several rear bearing replacements).

[Smokescreem]

Great play by play write Up.

[NWClassicHonda]

Good write up.

[civic1500s]

Damn it. Delete this thread...

Or maybe I can salvage this for my spherical how to thread.

Although maybe i will continue because you cannot comment on your old.thread any more so.we can update some of the information from 10 years ago.

thx for the info chedda, please continue to the post

[DEIVIONCRX]

Heres My and Kakabox's thread about Rear-Disc Swap.

http://www.redpepper...e...c=42677&hl=

http://www.redpepper...e...20659&st=75

[kaymo]

lol there is nothing wrong with too many CORRECT how to's! sometimes someone pictures something differently that helps a novice understand something better than another thread. should have a whole section for howtos not just stickyd

i actually looked at this and thought "damn its been a long time since ive seen those brakes torn down." i did my disc brake swap over 6 years ago to a civic hatch, and then swapped them to one of my crxs later.

[strudel]

I shortend mine, at the hand brake side so everything was neat and tidy.

Buford,

A "how to" for your solution would be very helpful. I have a couple of ideas but haven't followed through yet. I just used creative routing of the cables for now but the problem I have is equalizing the pull evenly to both sides. JS