After purchasing my '85 CRX DX back in the summer of 2005 for $250, the car and I have gone through some major changes. After spending way too much for simple work just to get it back on the road, I started researching on how to do things myself. And that brings me to this; the build. Or as I like to call it, PROJECT:CRX. I plan for this to be a dual duty street & strip car.
What's done:
- HYDRA (EW2 block rebuilt & bored 0.04" with D16A1 pistons, and an '87 D16A1 Head)
- Extra tensioner bracket for timing belt (From -TJ)
- New water pump, thermostat, cap/rotor, and all gaskets
- Suzuki GS 750 Mikuni motorcycle carburetors
- '85 Prelude fuel pump
- B20A5 timing belt
- D16A1 dipstick tube (to allow clearance of exhaust manifold)
- D16A1 oil pan
- ARP connecting rod bolts
- Drop the front torsion bars down a little
- Polyurethane filled engine mounts
- CenterForce Dual Friction clutch
- Custom intake manifold
- "Hacked" intake manifold, ported for flow
- Brake booster delete (c/o KAKABOX)
- RCI high-back drag seats
- Simpson Racing 5-pt harnesses
- Weld-on quick release steering wheel hub
- New steering wheel
- 5" tach
- Gutted interior
- Custom mandreled downpipe and side-exit exhaust
- Pertronix coil & Nology ignition amplifier
- Taylor Cable 8.2mm Thundervolt spark plug wires
- Bosch Platinum 4 spark plugs
- Shaved antenna, rear spoiler, and emblems
- Multiple gauges & switches
- Custom rear diffuser
- Fix rusted/dented rear quarter panels
- Fix rusted floor pan
- Low-gloss black paint job inside
- Grey primed exterior
What still needs to get done:
- Chikara 4-2-1 header
- 20x6x14" drag slicks
- 6pt roll bar
- Keyless ignition
- Polycarbonate sunroof
- B&M Launch Control
- Redpepperracing.com decals
- "Home Depot" front lip
- 19mm custom rear swaybar and mounts
- Custom front strut tower brace
- '95 Suzuki GSX-R 750's (I just need to make an intake manifold that fits them, and they're going on inplace of the GS 750's)
Check out my gallery for more pics.
Link to gallery.
Cheers,
-Scott. (aka Crazi)
This build thread has been updated on July 23, 2007.
4
Project: Crx
Started by crazi-85crx, Dec 20 2005 02:30 PM
199 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 December 2005 - 02:30 PM
#2
Posted 20 December 2005 - 02:34 PM
..sounds great but i have one request ...please dont put an APC steering wheel on it..get a momo or mugen hell or even a mugen knock off from e-bay..just not an APC...
#3
Posted 20 December 2005 - 02:36 PM
#4
Posted 20 December 2005 - 09:19 PM
sounds very "back yard". i like it
fyi, those strut bars will be pointless unless you get some bigger t-bars and some stiffer rear springs. theres not much point in making the body less mushy unless you take the mush out of the suspension.
fyi, those strut bars will be pointless unless you get some bigger t-bars and some stiffer rear springs. theres not much point in making the body less mushy unless you take the mush out of the suspension.
start with a crx, then go mitsubishi eclipse, then run back to honda and never think those dirty thoughts again.
#5
Posted 31 December 2005 - 03:39 AM
bored at work so i'll post this quick update:
i'm thinking that i will work on the little stuff like exhaust and body work over the winter and save the major engine work 'til this spring.
got an air compressor, which means i won't rattle-can the paint job . oh well, but it should turn out nicer. plus my brother can mix all the paint i need for like $30. he's trying to get me to pick something other than low-gloss black because he can mix any colour available, but i'm stickin with it.
planning to get an mig welder to fix the floorpan and do the intake manifold, exhaust system, and other stuff.
i'm thinking that i will work on the little stuff like exhaust and body work over the winter and save the major engine work 'til this spring.
got an air compressor, which means i won't rattle-can the paint job . oh well, but it should turn out nicer. plus my brother can mix all the paint i need for like $30. he's trying to get me to pick something other than low-gloss black because he can mix any colour available, but i'm stickin with it.
planning to get an mig welder to fix the floorpan and do the intake manifold, exhaust system, and other stuff.
#6
Posted 31 December 2005 - 05:17 AM
My tip, get stiffer T-bars instead of adjusting the teath on the stock ones. Since you say you already have rear suspention done, and are making other suspention stiffeners for the front... might as well get the basics done up front as well.
Stock T-bars will be far too mushy when lowered, especially for the bigger engine.
Stock T-bars will be far too mushy when lowered, especially for the bigger engine.
#7
Posted 31 December 2005 - 05:27 AM
i'm keeping the stock t-bars because they will help even out the stiffer rear, reducing understeer.
Edited by crazi-85crx, 31 December 2005 - 05:59 AM.
#8
Posted 31 December 2005 - 02:03 PM
QUOTE (crazi-85crx @ Dec 31 2005, 05:27 AM)
i'm keeping the stock t-bars because they will help even out the stiffer rear, reducing understeer.
Not 100% accurate. Your taking the car and making a lot of changes to the rear (lowering, stiffening and adding a sway bar) and nothing to the front. Your car will oversteer unless the bar is adjustable. Your going to have to use very little bar with a setup like that.
Victor
86 K24 Powered CRX SI (SMF Solo2, HPDE-4 NASA & TA-A Time Attack
85 CRX DX totally original
07 Harley FXST Softail
2021 Tacoma Tow/Daily
#9
Posted 31 December 2005 - 10:14 PM
#10
Posted 15 January 2006 - 12:26 AM
been busy with school and work lately so not much progress, however i had this morning off work so i decided to do most of the body work. i got all the dents/scratches fixed and shaved the antenna, rear spoiler, and emblems. i'm amazed at how nice it turned out - seeing as how this is my first time doing body work. now all that's left for body stuff is the rusted rear fenders, rusted floor pan, and the final paint.
shaved antenna:
the before/after of the rear:
i do have to give credit to my little brother who helped me out with this... he's got 3 years experience with body work.
all in all i think it turned out great
shaved antenna:
the before/after of the rear:
i do have to give credit to my little brother who helped me out with this... he's got 3 years experience with body work.
all in all i think it turned out great
Edited by crazi-85crx, 15 April 2006 - 04:23 AM.
#11
Posted 15 January 2006 - 02:59 AM
I agree that the shaven looks awsome. if i had a kit for the doors, i would shave them in a second. As for the antenna! Damn you! Another thing on my list! lol.
#12
Posted 15 January 2006 - 06:49 AM
thanks, i've always thought about doing the doors.
the spots look kinda rough in the pics but it's just becuase the primer didn't cover the bondo very well (too cold i guess). trust me, if you could feel it... it's smooooth!
UPDATE: i'm currently working on getting the intake manifold designed and made. i'm using 3/8" mild steel for the flange, with 1 5/8"OD 100-wall steel pipe for the runners.
the spots look kinda rough in the pics but it's just becuase the primer didn't cover the bondo very well (too cold i guess). trust me, if you could feel it... it's smooooth!
UPDATE: i'm currently working on getting the intake manifold designed and made. i'm using 3/8" mild steel for the flange, with 1 5/8"OD 100-wall steel pipe for the runners.
Edited by crazi-85crx, 18 January 2006 - 07:55 PM.
#13
Posted 10 February 2006 - 07:09 PM
It was a good day . I finally got those dowel pins out of the head and got to test-mount the D16A1 head on my EW block... perfection .
oh, and here's a pic of my carburettors. 38mm Mikuni's on top, 32mm Mikuni's on bottom.
oh, and here's a pic of my carburettors. 38mm Mikuni's on top, 32mm Mikuni's on bottom.
#14
Posted 11 February 2006 - 02:37 AM
#15
Posted 11 February 2006 - 03:11 AM
QUOTE (RexBoy21 @ Feb 11 2006, 02:37 AM)
side exit exhausts on civic??? i dont kno... but its ur car tho so wutever
theres a few people doing it. it saves weight.
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