The picture is the schematic cross-section of a trans oil seal. The cross-hatched section is the metal backing; the dark grey is the rubber and the small cross/circle is the seal spring. Note sure what '400' refers to, not a dimension anyway.

Perhaps not exactly what your after in terms of a replacement for the stock screw-in switch, but Davies-Craig make a range of adjustable switches:

http://www.daviescra...es.asp?prodid=1

They have a distributor in the US:

http://www.hrpworld....;action=product

Perhaps the title of the thread should be changed (??) as it seems this was a misunderstanding and the problems been fixed......as it stands, the title itself reflects badly on Frenchfancrx and that might no longer be appropriate, esp if someone doesn't read the entire thread.

Looks like parts buyers are out of luck as the auction's been ended early and it's no longer for sale (well, on ebay at least...)

Absolutely agree with this. I've used them quite a lot for shipping stuff to Australia and never had a problem. OTOH, Fedex and UPS are just a rip-off unless your really in a hurry.

Steve (lambs)....in Melbourne.

The vehicles, starting with the Honda's:

1986 3G Civic auto sedan, now fitted with JDM EW5 courtesy of JDT and runs beautifully
2006 Jazz VTi CVT, wife's car

1998 RAV4 wagon, as reliable as they come

1989 R32 GTR JDM, Godzilla, 'nuff said

1974 Datsun 260Z coupe, purpose built for club sprints (worked Motec injected multi-TB L28, custom gearbox, LSD, etc, etc)

1993 Mazda BG 323 sedan, bought cheap from a work colleague. I'm fixing it up for a friend of the family.

1983 BMW K100 motorcycles, my preferred mode of transport besides the GTR
1976 Moto Guzzi 750-S3, owned since new, one of less than 100 in Australia. Partly restored, probably my retirement project.

Also have a friends 260Z up on the hoist at the moment, which we're fitting with a VG30DET.

I think that's enough.........

Edit: should add that I've got JDT's spares car in the yard at the moment, but will be returned

Until a couple of years ago, WA had some unique laws with regard to older imports, which basically meant that engineering inspection wasn't required. Also your cars may have been brought in under the 15yo+ scheme, which doesn't require a DOTAR's plate to be fitted.

That CRX would have been imported under the old compliance scheme. It's a process where certain modifications are made to meet local registration requirements (eg seat belts with appropriate standards markings fitted, lights modified, intrusion bars fitted to doors.....things like that), and an authorised engineer signs off that the car 'complies'. In this case, our Federal Dept of Transport (DOTARS) would have approved the original import and issued that plate you see, so that the car is identifiable for what it is......a gray import, but it's definately a registration requirement. All that adds at least a couple of thousand dollars to the cost of getting the car here.

My R32 GTR came into Oz under the (also now defunct) 15yo import scheme (ie for cars 15+ years old), which was much cheaper and I don't have any type of ID plate fitted, apart from Nissan's original manufacture ID plate, but the car does have a new VIN supplied by DOTARS. Our fed govt realised that the scheme was allowing in some very powerful stock cars, as well as some even more powerful modified ones and decided to close the 'loophole'....it must be said that there was also pressure applied from the car manufacturers (GMH, Ford, Toyota, etc).

Not mine, but this might be of interest to Australian 1G CRX collectors:

http://cgi.ebay.com....1QQcmdZViewItem

Dandenong is just up the road from me, so can I can have a look for anyone interested interstate.

JDT - need some more spares ??

Just an update. Today I replaced the o-ring at the base of the CVCC injector, plus put in a set of the recommended spark plugs and, lo and behold, I have a smooth idle. I strongly suspect the o-ring was the main problem. I've also reset the factory throttle stop more accurately using a vac gauge as well as the TPS. All in all it's running much better and I'm much happier with it.

3GCVC - The IMA sensor is wound fully counter-clockwise. Playing with it just made things worse, which fits with the rich running situation. I must say I'm really hoping to get away without having to do more wiring, but so be it if that's what's needed.

JDT (James) - I seemed to remember you saying it was a 1987. I think the TPS certainly plays a part. After finding the factory throttle stop had been played with, resetting it plus the TPS helped to smooth things out, but not completely. I think that is where part of the solution lies.

anjin - interesting about your car, I was actually quite happy with the engine ran under load. I'm not getting any errors at all, but the fact that the throttle stop has been played with, plus I did get some improvement after re-setting, suggests that the solution lies in that area. The CVCC o-ring I mentioned in the first post is also playing a part I suspect because it seals the base of the injector holder and any air leaks in that area would stuff up the CVCC mixture potentially leading to poor overall fuel ignition (missing, etc.....well, it's just a theory). I have tried disconnecting the EGO sensor, but with no noticeable effect. I've also made sure there are multiple good earths, even having the main engine earth connected back to the battery and an extension of that cable earths the main ecu terminals.

Thanks for all the inputs, very useful.....Steve

I left the black box and all its hoses connected to the engine when I did the changeover, just so as I didn't run into any problems when re-connecting things after installation. That said, I am assuming that everything was connected correctly in the first place, so anything you have that might help in that direction would be welcome.

Thanks for the responses -

Scott: the plugs are showing uniformly sooty black, which is rich, of course. As I understand it, with CVCC engines the plugs fire a rich mixture so even with the engine running normally it might still be possible to have black plugs. The material coming out the exhaust definately indicates rich running. The oxy sensor is new, so that shouldn't be a problem. I have a Motec lambda meter and wide band sensor so may use that to check the actual mixture, although any misfire can skew the readings.

Zakats: the original engine in the Civic was carb'd, but I've transplanted the entire EW5 engine from JDT's CRX and the necessary wiring. I'm confident the injector wiring is correct and the fact that the car ran more-or-less normally on the brief test drive would seem to confirm.

3GCVC: I've pulled apart the dash cluster from JDT's JDM CRX and it definately has a sensor in the speedo and an associated amplifier. It's a simple stepped chopper arrangement that passes between hall effect sensors (or something along those lines). A bit of wire tracing showed that 2 wires from the amplifier go to the ECU. The City turbo wiring diagram confirms that those connections exist and even the wire colours match - it's what signals the send to the ECU and what the ECU does with them is the mystery (a city turbo forum member - bigelboe - confirmed that he is running his car without those wires connected and it runs fine). I suspect they might have an effect on ignition timing. The car runs more-or-less normally under load, no missing, etc, it revved quite cleanly. In fact I was quite pleased with the performance (OK, the auto kills performance to a large degree - let's say it ran quite well).

Vac and mech advance are working normally. Yes, one of the pipes is connected to the manifold so sees vac, but the other goes to the black box on the firewall. I'll do some m/meter work and see what is powered there. I think the car is an '87, but JDT may be able to confirm. Hang onto the loom.....I may yet need it :-)

I've put this in the CRX section, because that's what the engine is from, but it's in a 3G Civic

Anyway I have the EW5 from JDT's spares car in my daughters 3G Civic. Of course the engine slotted in, but the loom took quite a bit of work. Basically I've cut down the CRX loom to the EFI basics and spliced it into the civic loom where needed. Finding a wiring diagram was a big problem, but it turns out that the EW5 uses almost identical wiring to a Honda City turbo and with help from a CityTurbo forum member I was able to get it sorted.....mostly).

In any event I got everything installed and fuel supply sorted last Friday. It fired up straight away and everything seemed fine, but after maybe 20 secs running it started to get quite rough.....and that's the problem I still have even after checking everything possible. All sensors check out within spec and ignition + cam timing are spot on. The ECU is showing no error codes. I found that the factory set throttle stop had been backed off completely, but resetting that plus the TPS only helped a small amount. One significant indicator is that there is a lot of black material coming out the exhaust, suggesting extremely rich running and I suspect this is the cause of the problem but why it's happening is a bit of a mystery. Being a CVCC makes this a bit more complicated as I have no experience with this type of engine.

I've narrowed the potential causes to 3 possible areas:

- spark plugs. Most of the ign parts are new or known to be in good condition. I've noticed that the spark plugs are Denso type W20EP-U, which is the equivalent of NGK BP6ES. According to the NGK Oz website, the recommended plug is BUR7EB-11, which appears to be quite different in terms of specs. Are these engines sensitive to plugs ?? I've ordered a set of the recommended plugs.

- injectors. As I understand it, this engine has been sitting around for some time unused, so it's possible the injectors are gummed up, etc. I pulled of the fuel rail and checked the injector tips. I couldn't see any obvious leaks when fuel rail pressure was applied, but realise that isn't any sort of reliable indicator. The CVCC injector also seemed fine, although there is one o-ring that needs replacing. I may have to bite the bullet and have these cleaned, but it's an expense I'd rather do without.

- wiring. With the wiring diagram help I had it turned out to be fairly straight-forward, however there is one area that may or may not be a contributing factor. The CRX has a type of speed sensor fitted to the ECU. Basically it signals when the car has exceeded 15kmh and then again at 45kmh (it also activates a buzzer at 105kmh, but that's not relevant here). The amplifier module for the speed sensor in the speedo also connects to the ECU. There are 2 wires connected to the ECU at pins A19 and A20 and according to the wiring info I have one is associated with the 15kmh trip an the other with 45kmh. Exactly what effect they have on the ECU is a mystery, but I am wondering whether there is an effect to change injector timing for some reason. This is where owners of EW5 powered cars might be able to help.....eg back probing the ECU terminals mentioned above to determine voltage changes, or even disconnecting the amplifier module to see the effect on engine operation....

Of course I'm open to other suggestions. Mechanically I think the engine is fine as a simple power balance check suggests all cylinders are operating similarly in terms of compression. I also replaced the cam belt and tensioner, plus all seals and the water pump. Valve clearances are spot on.

Despite not having an air cleaner (it's coming....) I took the car for a test run tonight.....and it ran fine. No sign of missing, etc at all when under load. Indeed all seemed normal, but for the miss and general rough running at idle.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers (sorry for the long post, but unavoidable).

Something similar happened in Australia. A guy in Sydney put an old airplane valued at $AU250K on ebay with a starting price of $AU150K, but (stupidly) no reserve. A collector bid and won at the starting price. Meanwhile the original owner had an offer outside ebay for close to the actual value and proceeded with that sale, ignoring the ebay winner. So the ebay winner took him to court.....and won, with the judgment confirming that an ebay sale is an enforcable contract. The seller was forced to hand over the plane.

OK, thanks for that. Do you by any chance have a pic or point me in the direction of one ??

I'm in the midst of converting an Oz spec 3G Civic sedan to EFI using JDM CRX parts (thanks to JDT....). I've got the CRX wiring loom cut down to the basics and will be integrating it with the existing 3G loom very soon. Of course, the existing dash cluster doesn't have the PGM-FI warning light and while the wiring is relatively simple for this, there's no 'PGM-FI' stencil on any of the available spaces. I can cobble something up, but it would be nice to have that 'factory look'. Anyway I'm wondering where the warning light is in USDM Civics (or others ??) of the same vintage (1986). I'm hoping it's on the tacho side of things......

I did a search but came up with 59 pages to wade through, so sorry if this has been covered already.

TIA

Edit: BTW, with a lot of the posts that I found in my search for the above info none of the photos included were available to view, there was just a box with a question mark.......server problems ???

Much the same situation here in Melbourne. All the nearby ccts are under development pressure and the new 'neighbours' are complaining to the EPA about noise......never mind the fact that the track was in use years before they turned up.

I've never been there but Barba looks an interesting track. Somethng like Wakefield (NSW) or even Winton, although a bit more up hill and down dale than those ccts.

Yes it does.

One of the problems with cutting springs is that it inevitably removes the 'finishing' coil. That is, the specially formed contact end face(s) that allow for even distribution and transfer of load into the coil. Not having the finishing coil results in abnormal loads on the 'new' end coil (ie part of a full coil) and can lead to premature fatigue failure with, potentially, sudden changes in handling of the car.

All that said, I've done it for race cars without problem, but it's usually illegal for road cars (well, it is in terms of car roadworthiness in all states of Australia as far as I know).

It's actually an in-line 4 cylinder but laid on its side, thus this model is affectionately known as the 'flying brick'. As pointed out it's water cooled, but also EFI (Bosch L-Jet system) and, of course, shaft drive goodness

Definitely great fun to ride with heaps of low down torque.



Many hard core BMW motorcycle fans don't regard the K-series as 'real' BMW's....it's a boxer twin or nothing. I actually had a boxer many years ago - an R100CS - but it was the most gutless pile of crap I've ever owned.

This is my '83 K100 on the day I bought it few years back. Looks much the same now, but I've re-fitted the stock radiator cowl. It's very standard.



Fairing is obviously not a standard item. This is what a stock K100 should look like. I've also changed the handlebars for the K100RS type (much lower).

I took one look at all those hoses and decided to leave them connected to the manifold. As you say, better to just unbolt the box from the firewall and unplug it (3 plugs in this case).



I'll keep that in mind as I have to remove the dash to get to some of the wiring.



Perhaps I should start another thread, but I am wondering where you guys get your (new) spare parts, if needed. I was in the local Honda dealer the other day and asked their spare parts people about parts for grey imports and got a pretty unequivocal 'no way' - unless the vehicle was officially imported by Honda Australia, they won't support it at all. That's completely the opposite of Nissan's approach, for example, who will get in any part still on the Master Parts list, usually within 10 days.

Sorry but I'm taking all of that....I started work on it yesterday.

Suggest you pm 3GCVC as he seems to be able to access this type of thing very easily.

These were sold as the Nissan Gazelle over here, but we only got the crappy CA20E version [shudder]. Common swap in is CA18DET, which pretty much bolts straight in, and, of course, goes much harder

SR20's are definitely all aluminium.......err......aluminum