11 replies to this topic

[VaporParanoia]

Hey guys, my HF drum in the back is sticking. I've tried and replaced just about everything under the sun to keep it from sticking when it gets too warm. If you know of a way I can either fix it (if its a common problem) or simply bypass the brake I would be very appreciative. I'm not sure exactly what is causing it and I've had four people try and fix it (all non-professional mechanics not to say they are not capable, just not professionals) and nothing has worked. I'm throwing in the towel and since its not a daily driver and it weights so little that the front brakes can easily stop the car (I know some racing spec CRX's had no rear brakes which furthers my belief that the 10% braking they supply is not needed with good tires and good front brakes)

Thank you

[chedda_j]

So your e-brake adjuster isn't just tending to work its way out and apply too much pressure, causing the brake to drag is it? Other than that, if you have replaced the wheel cylinder, inside linkage, and brake shoes, I would say that you have something not working in your proportioning valve, allowing the fluid not to retract. May be time for a new one?

[VaporParanoia]

Everything inside the drum has been replaced, the previous owner claims that the problem stems from a warped drum caused by over tightening the lug nuts. its only the drivers side rear that siezes, wouldn't the e-brake cause both to sieze or are you saying its the connection between the RR drum and the cable that is keeping from all of the pressure being removed.

thanks chedda

[chedda_j]

The adjuster between the linkage inside of the drum, it has a fork on one end, an adjuster in the middle, and a link on the other end. I feel as though if this was over tightened, as the drum got hot it could seize the wheel. You replaced the drum too correct?

I want to add that this happened to my accord, the one tire would lock up and it wasn't till I took it apart and found that the linkages were sticking, that I realized what the problem was.

[VaporParanoia]

replaced the drum and the wheel cylinder

[chedda_j]

I would say for the cost of it ($25), replace the shoes and take the linkages all apart, clean them, make sure they all hinge properly. Drum brakes are fricken retarded. Bleed the brakes out, putting new fluid in. I have heard of air building in pockets before that cause brakes to lock by themselves. Those drum brakes have too many places for them to fail. Check your wheel bearing too, just in case. If that all fails, I would say proportioning valve. If your going to bypass the rear brakes, the best way is to just get a couple of brake thread plugs, unscrew the brake lines on either side of the rear of the car, install the plugs, should be good.

[1985 CRX SI]

sounds to me like the E-brake cable is sticking on that side.

What happens when you do not use the E-brake?

Jeff

[Screech]

That what I was thinking, rust or tight corner in/on right cable causing just that side to hang, drag -> seize.

[VaporParanoia]

i never use the e-brake, pulling the e-brake causes almost guaranteed seizure. it is parked in gear at all times.

list of parts replaced after purchasing the car with a sticking rotor:master cylinder, power brake booster, proportioning valve, pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines, and shoes

the e-brake cable has been tightened since purchase to try and make sure everything was adjusted as it should be. I'm really at a loss for what to do next, hence the desire to just bypass it

[1985 CRX SI]

I would disable the E-brake before I would just bypass the hydraulic rear brakes.

Jeff

[VaporParanoia]

I would disable the E-brake before I would just bypass the hydraulic rear brakes.

Jeff

already have, still seizes

[steamer54]

Just a thought, make sure there isn't a kinked or clogged brake line to that wheel. it may not be letting the fluid return to release pressure.