I would disable the E-brake before I would just bypass the hydraulic rear brakes.

Jeff

already have, still seizes

i never use the e-brake, pulling the e-brake causes almost guaranteed seizure. it is parked in gear at all times.

list of parts replaced after purchasing the car with a sticking rotor:master cylinder, power brake booster, proportioning valve, pads, rotors, calipers, rubber lines, and shoes

the e-brake cable has been tightened since purchase to try and make sure everything was adjusted as it should be. I'm really at a loss for what to do next, hence the desire to just bypass it

replaced the drum and the wheel cylinder

Everything inside the drum has been replaced, the previous owner claims that the problem stems from a warped drum caused by over tightening the lug nuts. its only the drivers side rear that siezes, wouldn't the e-brake cause both to sieze or are you saying its the connection between the RR drum and the cable that is keeping from all of the pressure being removed.

thanks chedda

Hey guys, my HF drum in the back is sticking. I've tried and replaced just about everything under the sun to keep it from sticking when it gets too warm. If you know of a way I can either fix it (if its a common problem) or simply bypass the brake I would be very appreciative. I'm not sure exactly what is causing it and I've had four people try and fix it (all non-professional mechanics not to say they are not capable, just not professionals) and nothing has worked. I'm throwing in the towel and since its not a daily driver and it weights so little that the front brakes can easily stop the car (I know some racing spec CRX's had no rear brakes which furthers my belief that the 10% braking they supply is not needed with good tires and good front brakes)

Thank you

they did that for a reason, just to shit on Tanner's favorite car and ensure Adam would win, classic Top Gear

i cried a bit when I saw the fender all jacked up afterwards