48 replies to this topic

[rinnaye]

I got mine from Pep Boys, the brand is VHT High temp wrinkle plus. the temp rating is 350 deg F (177 Cel)
It comes in red and black but the store didn't have any red at all, even kragen didnt have the VHT, they had Krylon wrinkle. I went with black because i did not want it to look hot rodded when i go to the ref station.

I did my cover in the middle of summer because heat is your best friend when it comes to wrinkle paint, you have to spray it liberally, aka a heavy coat but not too heavy it will sag or drip, direct sunlight is best on hot cement. lol!

if you read above in earlier post i stripped the cover three times with a citrus stripper. then lightly sanded after that with a 3m pad.
cleaned again. i also used a high grit sponge block on the honda emblem before taping to get that effect of brushed metal grain in a single direction. i then masked it off with blue tape and used an x-acto blade to carefully trim the lettering plugged all the holes, spark plugs hole etc. Oh yeah i also used a solvent prep cleaner before i taped to do a final degreasing.

Are you trying to source an engine? Best thing is craigslist and get a complete car if you can. MT of course. i got a low mileage auto browntop. You could also try to go the harder route and and try auto recyclers. Since i live in Sactown its is like one of the best areas for junk yard cars in northern cali.

best of luck.

-Brian

Thanks for the info on both the wrinkle paint, and also for the tip on Craig's List.

I too will be avoiding the red painted valve cover for precisely the same reason. Refs!!! Grrr...

As far as the engine source goes, I'll be buying fellow Pepper Shahriar's stolen, and recovered crx, and using it as my donor. It's got the Black Top D16 with a rebuilt head, half size radiator, wiring harness along with everything else, and a few other goodies on it that will come in handy for me. So even though I may be paying a little, rather a LOT more for his car, I feel the price is somewhat justified with what I'll be getting. I plan to also install a lighter flywheel, same as you, but most likely it'll be an aluminum one, and He's throwing in an unorthodoxed racing pulley. It won't be an R-Spec C-5, but hopefully very satisfying nonetheless.

Good Luck To You Too!

Rene

[dtpten]

Thanks for the info on both the wrinkle paint, and also for the tip on Craig's List.

I too will be avoiding the red painted valve cover for precisely the same reason. Refs!!! Grrr...

As far as the engine source goes, I'll be buying fellow Pepper Shahriar's stolen, and recovered crx, and using it as my donor. It's got the Black Top D16 with a rebuilt head, half size radiator, wiring harness along with everything else, and a few other goodies on it that will come in handy for me. So even though I may be paying a little, rather a LOT more for his car, I feel the price is somewhat justified with what I'll be getting. I plan to also install a lighter flywheel, same as you, but most likely it'll be an aluminum one, and He's throwing in an unorthodoxed racing pulley. It won't be an R-Spec C-5, but hopefully very satisfying nonetheless.

Good Luck To You Too!

Rene

whereabout are you in Socal?

[dtpten]

CAn anyone direct me to pics of how to mount my 87 teg fuel pumo in the stock Si location and how the fuel injection hoses connect to the hard lines? i know i might have to mod the lines to accept the threaded FI lines from the pump but i have never done fuel lines before. Any suggestions?

[dtpten]

bumpity bump.

anybody got pics for me from their teg swap fuel mounting?

[dwend]

I am at this stage right now with my carb to FI d16a1 swap, I will take a few pictures once I get some fittings.

[rinnaye]

whereabout are you in Socal?

Los Angeles!

[dtpten]

Thanks that would be great! since i have a DX and no fuel injection fittings under there, i might have to fab a fitting with earl's or something. not sure yet.
just wanted to see what other people are doing under there.

and i havent seen any Si's in my PAPs here that i could grab the hard lines from and or tank.

I did score probably the last NOS integra fuel pump out hose that exists in honda/acura inventory.

sucks the hoses that go from the firewall and fuel filter to fuel rail are discontinued, bummer. just means some custom shizz there.

[dwend]

I am just going to use some barb fittings, they are "supposed" to good to 150psi some even say 1000psi. Since the stock pressure is around 40psi, I think it would be ok. I am going to keep the same hard lines, due to when I measured the hoses the internal diameter was the same as the hard line.

I am going to leave the rear filter in before the pump, then I might put the 2nd one up on the firewall, I am contemplating it since the hose down to the fuel rail is the same size as the outlet on the fire wall.

The return line goes from 5/16 to a 3/16th est. under the hood, that will require an adapter.

Edited by dwend, 06 November 2009 - 02:12 AM.

[dwend]

I have an aftermarket fuel pump, and I think I have decided to put it under the hood.
There is also a CRX SI at my local P-A-P, I am thinking about taking the main fuel line, but I am lazy and rather do the easier one.

The only thing that stopped me from finish it today was that no stores carry a 1/2 to 5/16 barb conversion piece.

Dose any one have a picture of how fuel hose connects to the fuel line near the tank. My dad thinks I should put it back there and use some worm gear clamps.

On a good note I did put a bit of starter fluid in the throttle body and it started right away!

[Hairy'85si]

I have an aftermarket fuel pump, and I think I have decided to put it under the hood.
There is also a CRX SI at my local P-A-P, I am thinking about taking the main fuel line, but I am lazy and rather do the easier one.

The only thing that stopped me from finish it today was that no stores carry a 1/2 to 5/16 barb conversion piece.

Dose any one have a picture of how fuel hose connects to the fuel line near the tank. My dad thinks I should put it back there and use some worm gear clamps.

On a good note I did put a bit of starter fluid in the throttle body and it started right away!

I work for a Company that vtecs Mini Coopers and we use an aftermarket fuel pump from NAPA that is a number E2000. We put it in a bracket made of aluminum on the frame rail and plumb it with steel lines from front to rear, but use FI hose from the tank to the pump and pump to hard line with worm gear clamps. We also use the same at the front to the FI rail. Look up www.superfastminis.com for picks of the cars. I have an '85 Si and I am putting a LS/VTEC in it with a LS cable tranny and the LS front and rear disk brakes with the front knuckles to accommodate the larger Integra axles.

Edited by Hairy'85si, 07 November 2009 - 12:33 AM.

[dtpten]

New Pics, Almost have the rear brake swap done



I grabbed the spindle studs from the wrong side last time i was pulling parts and this is what i got for the left rear, oops
too short. heading back to PAP SAturday morning. i pulled the right rear and tried using them on the left rear.
The reason being, the right rear has the rotating spindle and the left rear is static, and to compensate for the
difference the left rear spindle studs are longer than the right rear. Just another $2 bucks outta my pocket!

[dtpten]

got my studs! and they worked. I need to replace a missing banjo bolt
and the wheels can go back on and then perform brake fill and bleed.

next on my list of to do's:

Fuel:
Pump install/ plumbing

Electrical:
remove engine harness/ replace with teg engine harness
remove dash/ remove interior harness
interior harness i can use for lights and accessories stays from DX.
Replace with teg fuse box and necessary fuel injection bits/ sensors.
Lots of re-pinning wires left over from dx into teg fuse box. Rear lighting Front lighting, fans, etc
Install modified Teg cluster / it fits in civic cover (pics below)

Engine:
Replace oil pan gasket
Install lightened flywheel
Install clutch
Mount trans
Drop in engine
Install axles
Put back cooling stuff
Fill with oil and coolant
Check all clips and plugs
etc.
More to be added.

Edited by dtpten, 26 April 2011 - 12:23 AM.

[dtpten]

My 87 teg cluster shaved to fit into Civic housing




Oh yeah i got the idea from this link.
For anybody else who is visual it help out a lot!

http:www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forums/67171-diy-how-put-87-teg-instrument-cluster-into-84-87-3gs.html

just copy paste into your browser. the insert link tab adds another http: and cant find it that way.

Edited by dtpten, 12 November 2009 - 04:07 AM.

[dtpten]

bumpin

[dwend]

Ok, here is what I did.

First I took the fuel line that goes to the front filter from a CRX Si and cut the end off that screwed into the firewall, then just used a worm gear clamp and put it on the DX firewall line. This hose then went to the CRX Si fuel filter, which I just set on the charcoal canister. I just used the hose that went from the filter to the rail from a Si.

For the return line I used a 5/16 inch hose that goes to a brass converter which goes down to a 3/16 hose which I pulled of the DX mech pump return.

For the Pump, I used the DX hose that that goes the the DX fuel filter, I added a few worm gear clamps on the filter. The hose that comes out of the filter I replaced with a 5/16th fuel hose from advance auto. The DX fuel hose is form fitted and dose not want to bend, and likes to kink. From that I used a brass fitting that was a 1/2 to 3/8ths barb adapter that my dad found at Lowes. I then cut a 2 inch piece of 1/2inch hose, which went to the fuel pump. I got the pump bracket from the Si put the fuel pump in the stock location, and bent the dx filter bracket to fit on one of extra m6 stud on the Si bracket. I then used a fuel line that went from the Si filter to the fuel rail, and cut off the end that went to the filter, make sure you use the end that connects to the rail with the muffler, it will not work if you get them backwards (did this the first time, I wasn't paying attention when I put them on). I cut the hose in the middle and used a worm gear clamp to connect it to the DX fuel line.

I have not had any leaks yet. Drove it about over 70 miles today. OMG it is sooo much better than the DX motor, I can fell it is a bit heavier tho, and my speedo is wayyy off, I mean it indicates over 100mph when I am going 70ish HA HA.

I don't have my camera with me, but when I do I can take pic of the pump area.

Edited by dwend, 14 November 2009 - 10:59 PM.