43 replies to this topic

[RARECRX]

Well i kinda wanted your guys expertise opinions.. Im in the market for new subs what would be the best for the back of the rex as far as subs/enclosure types/setups etc... what have you guys used and disliked or liked...im not going for spl championships but i love clear, clean ,deep bass.. money is not really an issue but i would love to have some x-tra you know.. basically best bang for the buck here...

[DEIVIONCRX]

IMO right now the best bang for the buck are the Kicker Comp and Comp VR, and the Rockford Fosgate P1-3 subs

if you want nice clean deep bass id get 1 12" sub in a sealed box, if you want louder you might go with 2 12"

rember its eazyer to destory speakers with less crappy power than it is to kill them with to much clean power, so spend the money and get a good amp that will push them to there max, thats what there designed to run at, and will yeild the best results, if they want 300watt's peak push it at 300peak

look at the specs on whatever sub you want and then find or build a box for its required cubic footage and select a amp for its power rating

with a Single 12, 300-500 watts, and some nice speakers in the front/back you should have a nice full range system that still beats when you want to rock out

Edited by DEIVIONCRX, 03 December 2005 - 12:18 AM.

[RARECRX]

IMO right now the best bang for the buck are the Kicker Comp and Comp VR, and the Rockford Fosgate P1-3 subs

if you want nice clean deep bass id get 1 12" sub in a sealed box, if you want louder you might go with 2 12"

rember its eazyer to destory speakers with less crappy power than it is to kill them with to much clean power, so spend the money and get a good amp that will push them to there max, thats what there designed to run at, and will yeild the best results, if they want 300watt's peak push it at 300peak

look at the specs on whatever sub you want and then find or build a box for its required cubic footage and select a amp for its power rating

with a Single 12, 300-500 watts, and some nice speakers in the front/back you should have a nice full range system that still beats when you want to rock out

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

all my fronts are ok running on a soundstrem 4 channel.. I forgot to mention for my subwoofer I have a soundstream pca1500d picasso series amp here are the specs..also im not really an audio buff so i do need help!!! specs for my amp..had this running an mtx 8000 series 12" in sealed boxat 4 ohm's...800 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms
1100 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms
1500 watts x 1 @ 1 ohm

[boise_schizo]

yea, what he said.

i am going to go with one high-power 12 in a ported box. I like the bandpass boxes too. i'd go with a bandpass if i had a civic instead of crx. but with the crx, basically have the sub pointing towards the hatch window it "reflects" the sound towards the front. with the windows up, it basically makes the car a bandpass box.

anyway, for "true power", 200 watts is normally more than enough. true power is normally equal to today's standards in RMS wattage. take for example, a pyramid amp advertises 1000 watts, but for RMS ratings it is only 75 x 2 (150 watts)

anyway, just my $.02.

plus, if you want a sub and amp for cheap, i might be able to help you out, i'm a car audio dealer. if we had a group buy going, i might be able to get some major discounts going on, but might not work out too well

[85c-rex]

if you want amazing clarity...look up elemental designs...and for small space problems, check out there 6.5" subs

[EuphoricBlue]

If you are not going for SPL, stay away from bandpass. Those boxes basically play one note loud and ignore everything else. The most flexible and most natural sounding boxes are sealed. Also, placement plays a big role in the output of your subs in the rex. I had my 2 12" subs facing directly at the rear window (speaker face paralell with hatch) and found that the sound actually got trapped at the rear... however, by making the speakers face streight up, or leaning slightly forward I got way more audible output up front. So, I'd say experament a bit, but I found that having the speaker/s pointing up and slightly forward is a safe setup for output.

If you want audio quality from your subs I'd reccomend you look at a 10" JL Audio sub. I like 10" because they reproduce drums really naturaly but can also hit the low bass guitar notes. Now, JLs arn't cheep, but they have a great reputation for clean bass when coupled with a good amp. I'd say look at the 10W6v2, or if you're feeling freally adventurouse, try the 10W7. If you were interested in the JLs go to www.jladio.com and find your local destributor to hear these things in person. Maybe check out their components as well.

But what ever you choose, remember that the crossover is ultimatly what makes or breaks your setup. I've literally made a $200 system sound better than a $1500 Kicker/Polk setup... and it was just because the guy wasn't using a crossover.

[RARECRX]

But what ever you choose, remember that the crossover is ultimatly what makes or breaks your setup. I've literally made a $200 system sound better than a $1500 Kicker/Polk setup... and it was just because the guy wasn't using a crossover.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[/quote]
yeah.. i have a soundstream crossover..what about the alpine type-r or type-x 12 subwoofers" are they of good sq?? i can get killer deals on these at our local good guy's.. It is going out of business.. I think i want to run 2 12" but not sure on the brand yet.. thats the reason for tis post..second opinions are always good...

[EuphoricBlue]

I've always seen Alpine as more of an SPL audio maker. I haven't even heard of the type-x to tell you the trouth. I haven't really looked into Alpine subs. But the x looks like it's some seryouse sub. If you want 2 Xs with 1000 watt RMS each I hope you're gonna be abbout 20 feet from the car with the windows down when you're turning it up... or else you'll be needing some new ears and windows...

Basically, a good guideline of what the speaker is designed for seems to be it's Qts value. The lower the number the more "natural" it sounds, generally speaking. Alpines seems to design their subs to have a Qts of 60-70. Which is why I've always seen Alpines as more of an SPL sub designed for a ported enlosure to deliver a loud 60Hz. JL likes to keep Qts in the 40-50 range. You can find subs out there in the 30-40 range too, but those tend to be a bit more specialty and usually seem to have low power handeling, like 50-150watt RMS...

But seryously, most anything brandname should be able to deliver "good" SQ at reasonable sound levels for most people. But if you have an ear for music, once you listen to a sub desined for SQ the other subs will sound... "muddy". While I can't say I have any seryouse ear for music, I can usually get a sub to perform at satisfactory levels with a corssover and some tweeking. So, take a look at what you can get at a deal, look at its specs, then buy it. Once it's in hand and you have it's spec sheet, then buy or build an enclosure that will allow the sub to deliver it's SQ ability.

You can find some good refference material on the net and some calculators that will tell you what kind of air volume your encosure will need to deliver the target sound, or if it's even possible... Everything from the air volume to enclosure type to type of wood impacts sound output. Having a large, solid, sealed enclosure with wadding will usually deliver better SQ but loose considerable SPL and power handeling. So sound is really a balancing act of SPL vs SQ to get the sound like you want it.

But take all of what I say with a grain of salt. I am by no means an athority in this. All of my so called "knowladge" comes from just brousing the net and reading numerouse sites and accepting like information as generally being ture. I really have pritty limited real life experiance having only built 2 enclosures. (that look ugly, but hey, they work ). I've set up in the lines of 12 car audio systems for varyouse people, but those were just store boght plug and play stuff...

Good luck!

[oldschoolimport]

I've been tryin to kill the same JL10w0 for 5 years now, and it was used when I got it. its a great sub, as are most JL subs. I just bought 3 MB Quart discus 10's and I'm looking forward to seeing what these will take. the guy I got these from hit low 140's with a soundstream 1000 watt amp in a box he built with winISD plans.

[addiction2bass]

i definatly recomend REaudio.
they also have a group buy starting VERY SOON!
http://forum.soundil...ead.php?t=56605

im using 2 RE RE10s ported in my crx and love em! youd be amazed at how far these suckers move and just wont bottom out!
http://www.realmofex...ring/re10.1.wmv
and now that they are broken in they move even more in my crx but my cameras broke to take any videos of them

for some good SQ id say go SEs and for spl id say SXs
but if ya realy want cheap and amaze people go for the RE model!!!!
i was gonna either do 6 RE 10s OR 1 15inch SX in my crx with 1200watts. both would run like 6-7cubes total box. and both use 1200watts.

if you can find a 2005 XXX that would give you the best SQ but those are harder to come by since they are totaly remodeling the XXX model and no new release date yet.

[JEFFtheJ00la]

i like my 10" kicker l5. i got it for 199 with a truck style box. sounds damn good in my truck.

[lopezi]

I concur, Resonant Engineering makes some of the best bang for the buck subs out there (the RE line is quite versatile). I also like the JL W3 line as well for a balanced sub.

i definatly recomend REaudio.
they also have a group buy starting VERY SOON!
http://forum.soundil...ead.php?t=56605

im using 2 RE RE10s ported in my crx and love em! youd be amazed at how far these suckers move and just wont bottom out!
http://www.realmofex...ring/re10.1.wmv
and now that they are broken in they move even more in my crx but my cameras broke to take any videos of them

for some good SQ id say go SEs and for spl id say SXs
but if ya realy want cheap and amaze people go for the RE model!!!!
i was gonna either do 6 RE 10s  OR 1 15inch SX in my crx with 1200watts. both would run like 6-7cubes total box. and both use 1200watts.

if you can find a 2005 XXX that would give you the best SQ but those are harder to come by since they are totaly remodeling the XXX model and no new release date yet.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[calmoc9]

ive always been a memphis car audio fan. pretty much what i was going to say has been said. if you want deep clean bass with good response, a single 10 in a sealed enclosure will do it. for greater frequency range go for a ported enclosure. generally you don't as much power to run ported box either.


scott

[RARECRX]

I just picked up today 2 12" alpine type-r SWR1242D dual voice coil.. I was going to get the type-x but my friend (co-owner of the stereo shop) said i wouldnt be able to stand the bass in the rex ,more of a spl competiton woofer...well the ones i got are in a ported enclosure and i think i bit off more than i can chew with these WOW!!!! my ears are still ringing i have the amp down to 1ohm stable 1500 watts.. .the hatch window and hatch look like they are gonna blow out!!.2 thumbs up!!!he gave me a good deal 2 in a custom tuned ported enclosure for $200 (hook-up price) cant beat that...

[EuphoricBlue]

Man, I've never heard of Resonant Engineering, but their subs have some nice numbers... It's making me want to get the SX10... .27 Qts O_o Thogh its other values make it more suitable for a ported enclosure. But so long as things are tuned right a ported englosure would make for good listening.

I'm going to need to do quite a bit of homework for when I finily deside to build my next audio system...

Also, it seems I was way off on the power handeling of the SQ subs... as the SX10 shows with its power handeling of 1000W RMS 2000W Peak...