48 replies to this topic

[DEIVIONCRX]

So i can finally stop annoying E-AT Me with pictures of collecting parts.

I started on the Rear Disc Swap along with multiple upgrades at the same time. Ive got some pictures on the camera at home so ill post them tonight. Right now is what I've learned.

If your ever pulling rear trailing arms, get a 17mm Ratchet Wrench. God damn that area was poorly designed with accessibility in mind. Its like trying to align a motor mount from beneath with 2" on either side to work in. The trailing arm bolt is way way to long to be removed 1/4 turn at a time with a regular 17mm wrench. Its do able but god its boring and tiring.

The poly bushings for the RTA's are a pain in the ass. If you grease the spots in the instructions, you can barely get the bushings in place and get them to stay there because the air pocket you compress pushing the bushings together. I had to put zip-ties through the bushing to keep them in place so i could jam them into the car.

Snap-on 10/12mm Flare Wrench's are worth their weight in gold. I hate "Snap-on" but if your doing brake lines they are a god send. Especially when you get them cheep.

Changing out ARP Extended studs without a vice is a real pain. And for the record Stud measurement's. Factory is 1.5", ARP Stock is 1.85", and Extended is 2.85", So the ARP stocks are longer than the factory studs. But the extra .35 is purely the "speed tip", the thread length is exactly the same 1.5".

The RPR approved method for removing the Rear Trailing arm bushings is just about the easiest simplest way I've ever done a bushing. Drill out the rubber, cut the center out and light those things on fire. Definitely use this way if your going to do yours.

And does anybody know the size and pitch of the brake backing plate studs/nuts. The Teg ones i got arent chewed up but i am have trouble getting the nuts started, ive got a raincheck for a good price on a big ass set at harbor freight but i cant remember what all sizes are in there. And i remember the studs are a wierd threadpitch. There like a 1.0 or 1.25 but M12 or so.

[ef91]

sounds like you got your hands dirty..... and i will be doing the same swap with teg disc breaks this summer..... did you just use the whole teg axle or the si axle with teg parts?????? want to know the cheapest way to go on this swap...... looking forward to seeing the pic's....

colin

[strudel]

The hardest thing I found to do was stripping the Teg trailing arms off the unit. They are hit and miss as to easy/hard. One side came off relatively painlessly. The other side was rusted/glued in and it took a lot of grunt work (BFH and cold chisel) and removal liquid. It all depends on what condition of a rear axle you can obtain. JS

[DEIVIONCRX]

I spent a day at pull-a-part this last summer, pulling the calipers, brackets, backing plates, studs, prop valve, and ebrake cables off a 87 Ls Integra. I didnt bother with the axle or trailing arms cuz i dont need them. I did take the larger internal swaybar though.

I didnt find a HF axle like i wanted to, so ill just have to swap that out later when i find one.

The only problem i had with pulling them while i was at pull-a-part was seperating the caliper from the swing bearing. That guy was fairly rusty and solid, but it wasnt to bad once i figured out just hammering a chizzle down then up between the 2 pieces till it seperated.

[DEIVIONCRX]

The stock Si vs the Integra LS Swaybars. They look identical except the stincled markings on the inside. The Teg is marked CG and 21, The Si is marked CT 16, i can only imagine they are marked for the size of the bar. But from what i remember only the Special Edition Integra was 21mm and i could have swore the stock Si was larger than 16mm.

[Screech]

The poly bushings for the RTA's are a pain in the ass. If you grease the spots in the instructions, you can barely get the bushings in place and get them to stay there because the air pocket you compress pushing the bushings together. I had to put zip-ties through the bushing to keep them in place so i could jam them into the car.

If I remember right there is a center collar. The tip, IIRC about the center collar, is to put the bushing in first without the center, when hold them in while you push the center through. Then instead of having to fight to keep them in they create a vacuum that holds them in if they start to slide apart. And I didn't have a racket wreck, just a 17mm combo wreck, it was a long task.

[strudel]

The stock Si vs the Integra LS Swaybars. They look identical except the stincled markings on the inside. The Teg is marked CG and 21, The Si is marked CT 16, i can only imagine they are marked for the size of the bar. But from what i remember only the Special Edition Integra was 21mm and i could have swore the stock Si was larger than 16mm.

I found the same scenario. Looked identical and couldn't figure out how the T-bar could even be removed. No way to tell from the outside what was inside as far as diameter as the splines would be identical. I just swapped them in any case as I didn't know what model the Teg axle came from. Ever since it was all put in I have a clunk in the rear when I drive off the driveway at an angle and the body twists a bit. I may have a spring that did not seat correctly but that would be odd. There really isn't anything back there that should make noise. Unless it has something to do with the rubber donut on the internal bar and that would be odd also. Weird. I have to check it out when the weather warms up. JS

[DEIVIONCRX]

I was going to weight them cuz obvously the larger bar would be heavyer but my scales dont go past 5lbs with any amount of accuracy.

Yea i did the bushings one piece at a time without the steel insert but it still didnt work out great, every time id let go of them both pieces would back out and fall out.

[Screech]

I found the same scenario. Looked identical and couldn't figure out how the T-bar could even be removed. No way to tell from the outside what was inside as far as diameter as the splines would be identical. I just swapped them in any case as I didn't know what model the Teg axle came from. Ever since it was all put in I have a clunk in the rear when I drive off the driveway at an angle and the body twists a bit. I may have a spring that did not seat correctly but that would be odd. There really isn't anything back there that should make noise. Unless it has something to do with the rubber donut on the internal bar and that would be odd also. Weird. I have to check it out when the weather warms up. JS

This .mov file may so show you where the noise is from. My LS bar has play between the t-bar and tube, this is why I just welded it.

[RETROCRX]

Weld it and then cut the rest of the bar off.....you gain rear roll stiffness and less unsprung weight.

I have this setup plus a Suspension Techniques rear sway bar!

It is fantastic!

Rob

[1985 CRX SI]

Weld it and then cut the rest of the bar off.....you gain rear roll stiffness and less unsprung weight.

I have this setup plus a Suspension Techniques rear sway bar!

It is fantastic!

Rob

I think I read on here that you could eliminate the swing bearing.

If so could you just remove the factory bar all together?

You would lose more weight.

I think this would be too stiff as there would be no ( or very little ) body roll at all in the rear.

Jeff

[DEIVIONCRX]

The problem with removing/or welding the rear torsion bar. Is you are now turning the whole axle/trailing arms into a torsion bar. Which it wasnt designed for and could cause damage eventualy.

[RETROCRX]

Eventually.......Mine has been like this from day one.......about 7 years now...with plenty of track use also.

Still no issues as far as I an tell....and this car gets major checks before every track day.

Rob

[DEIVIONCRX]

Its just temporary.

Mines getting a HF axle and a chassis mounted tubular swaybar eventualy.

[DEIVIONCRX]

More shit nobody mentions.

DO NOT, repeat DO NOT mess up the threads on the backing plate studs. They are M12x1.0 and a Tap/Die is impossible to find.

The Civic/CRX drum axle nut dust cap, does NOT fit on the Integra disc, ill have to pick up some Integra ones tomorrow.

You HAVE to put the foward most caliper bracket bolt in the backing plate BEFORE you bolt them to the trailing arms. Or your going to end up having to drill a hole in the trailing arm. I started before i figured that out and im gona have to fix the small hole i started to drill.

Good tip for getting the new poly trailing arm bushings back up into the car without killing yourself is hit the sides of the car and the sides of the bushings with some WD40, it makes everything so much easyer.

Now for the Pictures.