14 replies to this topic

[mayhem019]

Ive got 27.5mm torsions up front and in the rear I have the HF rear axle, a (thick) aftermarket external bar, and 350lb rear springs

At autox the other day the car had quite a bit of push to it still so I think I might grab a stock rear axle, weld the internal bar and use that. If it still pushes I'll put this external bar on top of it

But yeah its not clear to me where the internal bar needs to be welded exactly. Does anyone have any pictures of it?

[Vandemar]

Continue that weld the rest of the way around, of course. And don't cut the stock torsion bar section (the part sticking into the axle) off until after it's welded.

[smashfascism]

ha, i made the mistake of cutting the T bar off befor I welded it, lol. all better now

[Vandemar]

ha, i made the mistake of cutting the T bar off befor I welded it, lol. all better now

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

If it's lined up straight, that might not be a huge deal. I'd try loosening its bolts & making sure it's in a neutral position with the car at rest though, or you'll have some really funky preload issues.

[mayhem019]

Thanks that pic helps me out a lot. Now I have something to do this week

[G1tegZc]

doing this is very bad or your car....This puts stress on suspension parts that is not designed to have stress put on them...

I have the same suspension as you guys But I would never do that at all...............

Not even on a race only car........

You need freeplay there thats why they designed it the way it is....

[Kurt]

doing this is very bad or your car....This puts stress on suspension parts that is not designed to have stress put on them...

I have the same suspension as you guys But I would never do that at all...............

Not even on a race only car........

You need freeplay there thats why they designed it the way it is....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This is what happend to My rear swaybar link after 5 years of very very hard driving. I new my Tig weld would hold up no problem but what happend was the linkage to the rear controll arm ripped 1/2. I replaced the two links with another stock linkage that I strengthend first.

See how I go .

Edited by Kurt, 03 August 2005 - 06:16 AM.

[RETROCRX]

Mine has been welded like this for 3+ years with countless Auto-X and racetrack miles......It will not harm the car. PS I'm an automotive engineer if that adds any validity to my statement.

Mayhem, sounds like a good plan. I have an external rear bar plus a welded internal bar, Eiback Pro Kit springs and 23mm bars up front and I have little to no understeer. In fact it's VERY neutral.

Rob

[RexKrazy]

GOOD MOD.


I might go add some steel to the sway bar linkage after seeing that.

[plamenski]

The nay-sayers over at g1teg.org were bustin' my balls for suggesting this mod, but I think there is considerably more knowledge and experience on this site so I'm gonna try it on my teg...

[EdLeake]

Could someone explain what it does? I've never taken apart or even really looked under the car at the way the suspension works so any info would be greatly accepted.

[RexKrazy]

there's lots of info on this site, and even in this thread. weldingthe rear bar makes the trailing arms and the axle one piece so it's like a giant sway bar. this reduces understeer and makes honda go zoom.

[ikari89]

im still not perfectly clear on how this mod works. if some one could post up some pics of this installed under the car that would help. this looks like a really good idea, and since i have a autox only crx to mess around with it seems like it should get this done to it as soon as i understand what is goen on with it and how it works. along with what exactly all the pieces are that you guys have pictures of up here. im not crx retarted just 1st gen retarted .

[Aren D.]

This trend has alot of info, but the pictures are goine: http://www.redpepper...l=locking plate

[kakabox]

Mine has been welded like this for 3+ years with countless Auto-X and racetrack miles......It will not harm the car.  PS I'm an automotive engineer if that adds any validity to my statement.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Do you have any issues w/the control arm to chassis mounts? Are you using rubber or urethane bushings at that pivot?

I'm thinking that w/the welded axle (l & rhs control arm no longer able to rotate independently), the chassis side control arm brackets might be seeing more torsion and perhaps cracking...using urethane bushings might compound the problem due to not allowing as much of a torsional degree of freedom as rubber. Now if you used rod ends at the pivot, then the moment would come out as it would be free to rotate.

Just wondering.