3 replies to this topic

[jsgprod]

Ok, I said I would write up something on my brake lines w/pics. I finally got the pics this AM and have some time to write something down. (I really should be in the garage working on the car but……my to do list is kinda lengthy and I don’t have all the parts I need)

Basically, here’s the parts I ordered when I purchased mine:
2ea 3-12-STRAIGHT-STRAIGHT 12 INCH SIZE 3 TFE HOSE: STRAIGHT SWIVELS, BOTH ENDS
2ea 3-24-STRAIGHT-BANJO 24 inch SIZE 3 TFE HOSE: STRAIGHT SWIVEL & 3/8" BANJO
4ea 3265-29 3AN/FEMALE INVERTED FLARE 10mm x 1.25 BRAKE ADAPTER
2ea 3265-14 3AN/10mm x 1.25 METRIC FLARE BRAKE ADAPTER

Now that I write this I’m second guessing myself on the thread pitch. I’m almost positive they’re all 10mm x 1.25 but they could very well be 1.00. It was a long time ago and I no longer have the receipts.

The front line I ordered is too long at 24”. I guessed at it back then and should have actually measured it, the 21” line of the same part would be just about perfect. The 18” line is to short. As for the back you can see that it fits almost perfectly. I thought about getting another inverted flare adapter and keeping the stock hard line coming out of the slave cylinder. But you can see that the 12” would then be way to long, it would also put another potential leak point in the line. The way I have it tied with the tie-wraps has held just fine for years. This was done after I noticed that it was getting between the coils in the spring .

As for my comment about leaks. I’ve got to admit that ever since I have installed these (90 or 91, not sure) I have never once noticed one leak anywhere in the system, except when I first installed it. I forgot to use the new copper washers I bought for the banjo bolt on the front calipers . Put the new washers in and the only time brake fluid ever gets out now is when I let it out.

I had considered buying the line and re-useable ends like Greg did and two things stopped me.
1. A co-worker that used to race SCCA aeroquipped his entire GT race car back in the 80’s once. He did a great job (very anal kind of guy) and he also had no leaks. He also said he’d never do it again because of the pain. Seems that stainless steel has a habit of making very small holes in fingers when you try to push the parts together. The guy must have had over half a dozen little tiny holes in his fingers . You know how painfull that is? (think paper cuts, LOTS of em )
2. The word re-useable. I had never made lines before and the thought of just the possibility of those things coming loose didn’t give me a real confortable feeling.

Basically it’s a pretty straightforward job. Brake fluid will be leaking the minute you start this job so you can either deal with it, or drain the master cylinder first. If you’ve never bled a master cylinder you’re in for a treat, first times always fun. Me, I just let it drain, it’s a little messy but not to bad to clean up. BTW, if you get it on a painted surface rinse it with water when you’re done, it eats paint.

In the front just disconnect the stock line from the caliper and where it’s bolted to the strut. Then disconnect the hard line at the bulkhead connector from the other end of the rubber line. The little clip that holds the line in place can be pryed off with a screwdriver. Sometimes those connections can be pretty stubborn so use some penetrating oil first. Connect the #3265-29 adapter to the hard line at the bulkhead conn. and re-use the stock retaining clip in the groove. Then attach the new line to the adapter and route it to the brake caliper making sure that you can still hook it to the strut mount (not yet). Put new washers on the banjo bolt and banjo end of the line and attach it to the caliper. I pryed the stock retaining bracket from the old rubber line and wrapped it around the new line and bolted it on the strut. It was loose but I never noticed it moving around any. Gregs trick of wrapping a small piece of fuel line inside it sounds like a good idea if you’re concerned about it moving. That’s pretty much it for the front.




You can't see the hose bracket on mine anymore, I took it off when I made my brake ducts which hold the line in place quite well.

In the rear the only difference would be to attach the #3265-14 adapter to the straight swivel end then to the drum slave cylinder after you take off both the flex line and the hard line. Like I said earlier, it’s pretty straightforward.




For those who have the Teg brakes in the back it would depend on how the brake line attaches to the caliper. I’ve never even seen them but if it’s a banjo fitting then use a line that has a straight swivel on one end and banjo on the other. If it has a hard line similar to the drums then you can use the straight adapter and a line with the straight swivel on either end or they even have one with a 90 deg swivel if you need that kind of clearance. Like I said, I’ve never seen them so I really couldn’t say for certain what’s needed. You might even need a line longer than 12” but be careful to keep it clear of the spring coils.

Now you bleed the system and look for leaks. Oh, and clean up the mess if you’re anything like me!

Hope I didn't leave anything out,
Jay

[Vandemar]

One important note about the hardline attachments (this goes for the MC and prop. valve, as well): use a 10mm flare nut wrench, not a normal open-end. In the three 1G CRX's I've owned, there's a lot of variety in how tight the hardline fittings are (proportioning valves seem to be the worst), and they're easy enough to round off that it's worth a couple bucks for the extra wrench to do it the right way.

[1st gen boy]

Jay,
Great job!! I belive you are correct in saying that the fittings are truly a 10mmx1.00 thread pitch. Anyhow i, will work on the whole deal late this week or early next week. One of differences in the kits will be the length of the banjo bolt for the calipers. If you are using a premade line then the banjo is shorter. If you use a assemble it your self banjo then the bolt needs to be longer.

Bob

[Airgazm86]

Back from the dead...

What ever became of this group buy? I'm interested in these for my 'Teg brake swap and don't want to buy the lines from ebay.