286 replies to this topic

[JeepGirl]

new centerforce stage 1 clutch & pressure plate $189 list price $256
expidited delivery from the USA $40
new oil filter $4.54 X2 list price $7.13
new oem wire set $24.97 list price $39.31
5 litres of oil $17.40
new timing belt $24.02 list price 38.90
plus all the taxes and enviro charges = $327.39

so i do save alot with his discount!!!

i'll be picking up the rear main seal ($10) and the release bearing ($39) when i pick up the clutch in 10 days.









YaY!!!!!!

Edited by JeepGirl, 27 April 2006 - 01:40 PM.

[crazi-85crx]

lookin good! i've got a centerforce dual friction clutch i'll be installing hopefully soon, so let me know how yours turns out.




edit:
what's this discount you speak of ??

[JeepGirl]

my hubby is the parts/tool guy at NAIT autobody, so all the stuff i order i go through him so i gets wholesale prices sometimes up to 50% off and most times i dont even need a PO to get the cheap prices.

*UPDATE*

we finally dug the new trans out of the parts car last night. took us an hour, i guess it helps that we had it ready to go a couple of days ago but couldnt finish it due to weather. but its finally out. its got a terrific coating of oil over every square inch of it from wicked blowby coming from the engine it was connected to. other than the oil slick all over it its like a new trans. new seals, the oil i dumped out of it was new and clean. we despensed with messing around with the bitch pin and the linkage, we just dropped the trans/linkage in one fell swoop, worked great!

i was wondering, is there anything i'm forgeting. i ordered the clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/rear mainseal/honda mtf/windshield urethane for my mounts.

am i forgeting anything?

do i need a pilot bearing? my hubby asked me that this morning on the drive to work and i wasnt sure.

thanks everyone.

Edited by JeepGirl, 05 May 2006 - 09:08 AM.

[crazi-85crx]

my hubby is the parts/tool guy at NAIT autobody, so all the stuff i order i go through him so i gets wholesale prices    sometimes up to 50% off       and most times i dont even need a PO to get the cheap prices.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

cool .

[strudel]

Correct me if I am wrong but the D15's in our cars don't have pilot bearings. At least not in the CRX at any rate. JS

PS. Can the paint booth at NAIT be rented, borrowed, stolen, etc? I have possibly 2 CRX's that need paint. Know anyone there that would paint for me?

Edited by strudel, 05 May 2006 - 10:36 AM.

[crazi-85crx]

Correct me if I am wrong but the D15's in our cars don't have pilot bearings. At least not in the CRX at any rate. JS

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i didn't think so. i just got that outta the service manual . i took my flywheel to the shop like two days ago, and don't remember seeing one.

[JeepGirl]

well pm me with more info about the crx's strudel and i'll ask around. like is ALL the bodywork done? is it totally ready for paint? etc etc. and what ever happened with the mazda, is norm going to get it into a class?

my 3g doesnt have a dseries engine its an EV2 1.3L 1300cc's of raw rabbies ridden hamster power. and no i havent checked my manuals yet...

Edited by JeepGirl, 05 May 2006 - 10:48 AM.

[JeepGirl]

so, my clutch just made it into the city this morning...... turns out they had to build me one as they just dont keep any in stock and apperently building a clutch for an ev2 takes 3 days from start to finish. i get to go pick it up this afternoon, i'm getting all excited.

[JeepGirl]

kinda bummed out right now... for the past week driving my car has been a pain. it seems like something is dragging really badly. i go to coast to a stop and it doesnt coast at all. i go to drive forward and i have to use more gas pedal than usual. i'm thinking its something sticking with my rear brakes, and i have been avoiding upgrading them. when we changed the calipers we tried to bleed the brake lines but when he tried to break loose the bleeder valves on the drums he broke them right off. so now its either one or a combination of things.

-bearings. doubtful but i have new ones.
-sticky ebrake cables.
-air in the lines.
-broken or worn drums/parts.

i just redid the entire front end of the car! now i have to worry about the rear...

[jjamiemmark]

dont start any fires with all the heat of draging brakes

[JeepGirl]

well now i'm not all together sure its the brakes.... one of the automotive instructors said it might even be the trans trying to sieze..... i might have finally fried the trans in my car!!!! meh, i'm sure i'll figure it out in a few days.

[JeepGirl]

shameless self-serving bump

[crxls]

i was wondering, is there anything i'm forgeting. i ordered the clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/rear mainseal/honda mtf/windshield urethane for my mounts.

dont forget the clutch disk alignment tool. also, dont forget to lube up the throw out bearing really good when installing.

do i need a pilot bearing? my hubby asked me that this morning on the drive to work and i wasnt sure.

no pilot bearing is used in your application.

when we changed the calipers we tried to bleed the brake lines but when he tried to break loose the bleeder valves on the drums he broke them right off. so now its either one or a combination of things.

oh yes, the rear bleeders. they get the best of us. this can be easily fixed with new rear brake slave cylindars (wheel cylindars) which most likely need a replacing anyway due to leakage. i replaced mine a while back and they were like $12 each at autozone.....

good luck

[JeepGirl]

"dont forget the clutch disk alignment tool."

ok, now can i not just use a deep socket like i have on every other clutch job i've done? though i have never once done a clutch replacement on a FWD car i know that i have only use a "clutch alignment tool" once and realized i didnt need it because i own a set of deep sockets. from the looks of it, this alignment tool would have 2 steps right? kinda like this ==-- ? if thats the case i will have to get one... silly imports...


"oh yes, the rear bleeders. they get the best of us. "

heh, he tried everything! they still snapped i do have a parts car sitting out back with little rust on or around the rear axle, it also has brand new bearings and brakes, how many hours do you figure a rear end swap would take with a shop full of tools and a bay lift?

"no pilot bearing is used in your application."

he wasnt sure and neither was i so i figured i should ask....

*EDIT*
did i mention that i am now the proud owner of a full set of mudflaps?

Edited by JeepGirl, 11 May 2006 - 10:47 AM.

[crxls]

i dont see how a deep socket will work as an alignment tool because the flywheel center hole is smaller than the clutch disc center hole. alignment tools are cheap plastic and cost like $3 at any auto store. a clutch job can be done without it and i have done it but in the end you will wish you had just purchased the correct alignment tool.

i dont think it would take more than 2-3 hours max to do a complete rear swap with correct tools and parts on hand.....assuming you dont run into and seized bolts that want to break off or parts that wont match up. personally i think i would just swap over the brake cylindars and bearings if it were me doing it.