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Building A Carb Motor


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#1
LEW

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with dual mikunis 40's

i was gonna use an ew4sb and have 89teg pistons fitted for the bottom and a cdm pe3 head w/ an aggressive cam.

sooo my q'a are

any differance in the bottom end of an ew vs d15A3'S (one i should use instead of another)

86-87 teg pistons are lower compression, so 88-89's would be perfered in this build?

w/ the cdm head, should i get a 5way valve job done (aka do pe3's flow more than pe7's or is the only differance in quench and combustion qualities)

does colt hardweld and regrind, if not where the best place to have a carb cam made?

i will prob be doing a flywheel for this motor also, should i pay up and have the crank atleast balanced if not lightened/or reformed to cut through the oil better

will i need an aftermarket coil?

pz help put some fire under my ass, cause since september when i got my crx back from paint (and notice alot of bodywork flaws) i just snapped and havn't touched a thing since.....but have $$$ saved, just for this

thanks

Edited by LEW, 14 January 2005 - 11:44 AM.



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#2
lemons

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I'm not aware of any diffrence in the blocks themselfs, but i'm probably wrong, some one will prolly chime in and shed more light on this.

I think a 3 angle valve job would be plenty enough unless you have the money for it.

Colt does top notch cam grinds and they are familar with the these motors.

Have the crank balanced if you're going to rev past 7000, knife edging the crank.... my understanding is that the crank is less relaible this way and more suited for drag applications only.

An aftermarket coil prolly wouldnt hurt.

I'm building a carb motor up too using the mikuni's. I've had Dyno2000 Engine Sim pumping out 141 HP @7000rpm with 10:1 Compresson and @ 370 lift and 280 duration. These prolly arent that accurate, but i'd imagine that they are VERY possible. That is stock bore as well.


Colt Cams Regrinds
STAGE 1 - PRIM INT 270° .384 LIFT
SEC INT 260° .384 LIFT
EX 274° .402 LIFT
Best all around wake up grind works with F.I. as well. No mods are required.
Power band is 2800 - 6500 R.P.M. approximately.
The cost for this one is $175.00 Canadian or $ 131.25 US
Customer supplies cam core.
STAGE 2 - PRIM INT 280° .392 LIFT
SEC INT 268° .383 LIFT
EX 288° .394 LIFT
Carb. only. Strong mid range. No mods are required
Power band is 3500 - 7500 R.P.M.
The cost for this one is $225.00 Canadian or $168.75 US.
Customer supplies cam core.
STAGE 3 - PRIM INT 292° .413 LIFT
SEC. INT 272° .402 LIFT
EX. 302° .428 LIFT
Carb. only. Race Only.
The power band is from 4500 + R.P.M.
The cost for this one is $325.00 Canadian or $243.75 US.
Customer supplies cam core.

Edited by lemons, 14 January 2005 - 02:54 PM.

I have nothing...

#3
Doodson

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the only diff. I have seen in blocks is the water pump outlet sizes and I just found out that some motors have a second little oil deflector at the bottom by the crank craddle , Hard to explain

#4
criticalmass

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you need to buy my Jackson racing cam for this motor... in fact, I might sell you the matching bench flowed head that the cam came out of too... I can't run either in Production...

are you planning to get the head ported? there's a lot to gain with the dual carbs...

what are you planning to run for ignition? think about electromotive...

header? intake? air box?

the 88-89 teg pistons's are the pop tops, the 86-87 are flat... pretty sure both are 1 mm oversize for a CRX or over .040"

I've got a set of the 88-89 pistons with rods sitting in my garage that I'd sell too... belive they put you to 11.5:1 compression, so you need to watch out for running lean/detonation and probably run race gas....


sounds like a great project! biggrin.gif

#5
eldo

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PE7 heads flow more than PE3 heads (both stock and unported) because the PE7's have 1 mm. larger exhaust valves. I noticed quite a difference when i swapped a pe3 head to a pe7 with everything else being the same. Porting a pe3 head runs faster than a stock pe7 but i have not tried a ported pe7 yet. Pe3's have better quench pads which is for my application to hold off detonation better.(Pe3 also have higher compression) With either head ,definately get them ported- makes big difference with a 280- ish duration cam. (Also make sure they port with reversion in mind)
Colt does weld and regrind. Is this a street or strip only car? If you want it mainly for street and some strip duty, i would definately go for Colt's Triflow cam. Colt also will grind it at stock lifts so you can retain stock valve springs.(Saves valvetrain from beating itself up from higher lifts and higher spring rates)
I wouldn't put a crank in without balancing but if i got the extra $$, i would lighten and knife edge it.(How much $$ do you want to put in this motor?)
A Good stock coil works fine with N/A. MSD will keep the plugs cleaner and is recommended for nitrous or forced induction.(Bizi ran a stock coil on his D15 motor with stupid high compression up to 9000 rpm.)
Now get to it and prove to us what a carbed EW4 can do!

Ed
Ed
86 Crx DX EW3 block EW2 ported head , Coltcams (nitrous/turbo Stage 2 Triflow )

T-25 with a blowthrough Keihin carb - 13 psi .

I'ma in the Carburetion Nation

#6
LEW

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thanks for the replys, i'm gettin pretty stoaked. this one is prob strip and show only, my crx will be the dd and the hatch is going pearl black w/ 13-8 einkie's and this built motor.

u guys think i can make this happen for around a grand? i already have the carbs, mani, head, reworked distributor, pe3&7 heads, dx valve springs, jr(ithink) 4-1 headers, ect

criticalmass> maybe we should talk...pm me pic's n details

on the bottom end, i'll prob use a si cause it has the oilcooler... if there are no other differances.

on the head, i am going to p&p and have it benched 4sure...

lew<---who needs some coffee sleep.gif


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#7
lemons

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QUOTE (LEW @ Jan 15 2005, 10:21 AM)
thanks for the replys, i'm gettin pretty stoaked. this one is prob strip and show only, my crx will be the dd and the hatch is going pearl black w/ 13-8 einkie's and this built motor.

u guys think i can make this happen for around a grand? i already have the carbs, mani, head, reworked distributor, pe3&7 heads, dx valve springs, jr(ithink) 4-1 headers, ect

criticalmass> maybe we should talk...pm me pic's n details

on the bottom end, i'll prob use a si cause it has the oilcooler... if there are no other differances.

on the head, i am going to p&p and have it benched 4sure...

lew<---who needs some coffee sleep.gif


All that for a grand? It's possible, but not with the head work, head work is expensive. I'd also concider getting a widewand setup for your tuning purposes. You can always use the spark plug method, but a wide band will let you really tune it in. Concider a Direct Port Nitrous system as well. I'm going to go this route if money permits.
I have nothing...

#8
LEW

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a G not including a 5way valve job, that might be closer. and i didn't mention i have a hookup on some of the head work, but block/crank/flywheel and 5way Vjob would be contracted to a machinist.

tunning, luckly i have 2 good hookups and i'm not even gonna fire it w/o an A/F meter and a wide band

what about these sweeties, hype or hope?

http://sivalves.com/...essp_honda.html

Edited by LEW, 15 January 2005 - 02:23 PM.



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#9
criticalmass

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QUOTE (LEW @ Jan 15 2005, 02:15 PM)
a G not including a 5way valve job, that might be closer. and i didn't mention i have a hookup on some of the head work, but block/crank/flywheel and 5way Vjob would be contracted to a machinist.

tunning, luckly i have 2 good hookups and i'm not even gonna fire it w/o an A/F meter and a wide band

what about these sweeties, hype or hope?

http://sivalves.com/...essp_honda.html



cool find on the valves! gotta look at the website more... are they steel or something else??

will work on some photos of my stuff... probably going to need a host for them...

#10
LEW

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TTTTTTT

bump

how would u build your ew?


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#11
lemons

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Here's what I would do:

Car already has Mukuni CArbs = free
swap to Si head (already have a few) = free
carb fuel pump = ???
Smooth intakes + exhaust, port match, smooth combustion chambers = free
Exhaust header (hedman, lightspeed, dc sports, etc) = 150-300+
Integra Pistons and Rods = ???
Wideband O2 Sensor = 280
I have nothing...

#12
criticalmass

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QUOTE (lemons @ Jan 19 2005, 01:28 PM)
Here's what I would do:

Car already has Mukuni CArbs = free
swap to Si head (already have a few) = free
carb fuel pump = ???
Smooth intakes + exhaust, port match, smooth combustion chambers = free
Exhaust header (hedman, lightspeed, dc sports, etc) = 150-300+
Integra Pistons and Rods = ???
Wideband O2 Sensor = 280



Don't forget that you need the Si distributor to work with the SI head/cam or you need to run a DX cam in the Si head and use the DX distributor... with a blocked off fuel pump hole...
Or go to Electromotive and block off the distributor hole in the head and don't worry about it... guess which I did?? biggrin.gif
With the Mikunis, you can get away with a Carter fuel pump, you must have a regulator though as the Mikunis are finicky with pressure. I used a Holley Blue pump. Also, its good to run a return line to keep an electric pump cool.
You also need a collection of Mikuni Jets to get them tuned right and be able to re-tune them when the weather changes....
You should deck the head and block before you put them together so you start with everything nice and flat.

Nice projects!

#13
gtpilot

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I do porting as a side of what I have learned from racing these motors for the last 15 years...here's a snapshot of what my pricing is:

To just freshen the head I charge $300-$350 dollars. This includes: hot tank and bead blast of the head; check all springs for proper free length; check all valve guides and stems for proper clearance; check the cam journals for proper alignment and size; check camshafts for proper journal sizing, straightness and lobe wear; check all valve faces and seats for pits, nicks, straightness or other wear issues; inspects all rockers for wear issues. Then perform: clean up of bottom head gasket surface by fly cutting; 3 angle racing valve and seat grind; replace all valve seals; lap all valves to seats; install springs and measure install height; shim each valves spring individually to customer specification or to stock specification; install camshaft and rockers. Not included in this cost are any worn parts: valves, guides, seats, etc. - these are replaced on a case by case basis, I advise of the worn part and the cost to replace it before proceeding with any work.

Additional fly cutting on head to customer spec - $10 to $30 depending on depth.

Street porting using stock valves and guides - $300.

Combustion Chamber Polishing - $200.

Combustion Chamber CC matching - $100.

Custom Race porting, race springs, race valves, etc. are all done on a case by case basis - camshaft choice, usage of the cylinder head, etc. dictates a lot of variability in the pricing.

For Street Porting, most gains are made above the 4000-4500 RPM range, does not effect the bottom end, gas mileage, etc.

Kirk

#14
aaronbrown

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About lightening the crank by knive edgeing it. If you do that you will loose tourqe but get horsepower way up high. Are you planing on building it to do 9 to 10k rpm. then maybe you should knive edge the crank. A light weight flywheel is great for high hpower drag launches only . On the street they are hell if you go to light. Plus you'll need a strong left leg for the radical tranny breacking clutch. Grass roots Motorsports did a build up like this years ago. They used 1300 pistons in the 1500dx motor . It raised comprsion ,they are lighter and use one less ring for compresion. Autosport south [I believe in florida] sold a good street legal [on the o2 sensor] cam. Get a great machinest at any cost and stick with him. The tolerances for honda pistons are thight . Also choose the rings aahead of time {total seal grind to fit] so that he can get the corect coarseness of hone for your aplication . If you use electromotive find a tuner that is good at tuning it ,not someone that can just figure it out and get it done. If you want a trick head you can build one but its cheaper to buy a done head . I have a 1500 head that is ported plished,three angle with back cut valves new bronse guides,decked and gasket matched to the intake and 4 into 1 header. I learned how to do this by helping my dad build NASPORT GT3 race cars. I can be contacted at [email protected] or [707] 444-9510 hm work, mess