Andrew_as

I seem to be leading oil from around the cap. The one the part store does fit my car isn't the correct one. Working with an 85 dx hatch

So I'm trying to check my transmission fluid in my 3g hatch. I noticed it was a screw in style dipstick and I'm not use to that. I looked in the Haynes book to see exactly how it is done and couldn't find anything. Looked on the net and found these:
An automatic transmission has a screw-in type dipstick under the battery and its a real pain to get to. First, locate it and clean it and the surrounding area off any dirt so that it doesn't get into the trans when you're ready to check the trans fluid level. Run the engine at idle, select each gear position pausing for several seconds in each detent, then shut off the motor once you get back to park. Wriggle your arm down to the dipstick, unscrew it, wipe it off and put it back into the trans but DO NOT SCREW IT BACK IN. Remove it and look at the fluid level. The fluid should be in the "cross hatched" area on the dipstick. You're going to need a funnel with a long tube on it to add any fluid. DON'T OVERFILL IT.

I've always checked transmission fluid with car on and in neutral, these instructions are completely backward of what I'm use to. Can anyone verify this to be correct? Sorry for such a silly, simple question :/

I picked up my first Honda several months ago, I bought it with a blown motor (timing belt went out on the highway with 52K original miles). I started by pulling the head and having it redone. I had her up and running in no time! 

 

 

After looking over the forums for awhile i have decided instead of doing a motor swap, I'd rather keep it stockish and go with a devac and Weber install. I just picked up an intake and Weber off a fellow RPR member. Its due to be here tomorrow so I decided id jump in and get started today! Also when I fixed the head I ended up with a trickle of antifreeze leaking from the front side of the block so I figured id redo the head gasket and replace all the head bolts. 

 

So lets get started pulling the head,intake, carb, and anything vacuum related!

Before I tear in too much.

 

Getting things unbolted.

Head and intake out.

Intake and head apart.

 

 

That's all I got done today. The gasket set should be in tomorrow, along with the intake and Weber carb. Hoping to have some down time tomorrow to get things put back together.

 

Is there any springs I can swap out for the rear ones that will support more weight? I have about 400lbs in the back in audio equipment, so it sags a little.