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Diy: Rear Spring Removal (&cut)


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#1
kamikaze_fish

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ok, here goes, I hope this helps some people. After reading other posts and doing as others have said, I figured some pictures would help those behind me that are unsure. Oh, and by the way, if you don't like the quality of the pics, give me a good digital camera and I'll do it all over again...it was that easy. I'll start w/ the original picture:


according to any repair manual, make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable first:


now, open the back, move the computer and center console out of the way:


remove the plastic piece over the strut:


remove the rubber cover:
http://www.nbtechnol...errearstrut.jpg

remove that nut (14mm wrench) you see in last picture but use an hex head to not let the strut turn underneath. picture for this got lost, dumb cheap camera.

do above steps for both sides.

now block the front tires, release the e brake (trust me, I found out later this was necessary) and jack up the rear very slowly. I started out w/ jack in middle but couldn't get it high enough but it looked neat:


I ended up w/ jack on each side of car just in front of rear wheel and I placed a jack stand on wood under the tow hook in center of rear for a safety catch, and had to constantly adjust the jack stand. now the nuts you removed earlier will allow the springs to uncompress slowly as you jack the car up and the axle swivels down/forward giving you access to the now released spring and strut. now here's where fun #1 begins. If you can't jack car up high enough or you didn't use spring compressors, then right here you kick, cuss, scream, cuss, cuss and cuss because someone said you can wiggle the spring out this way. then at that point, remove the tow hook located here:


oh, by the way, I was able to compress my struts, by hand to assist in removing the springs.

Remove that tow hook (14mm) and then pull the spring out/off. Do this for both sides. Now, I tried using a hacksaw to cut the 1 coil off the spring, bad idea, you'll die before you get both springs cut. I then went to a buddies shop and used an air tool to cut it. here's the final product but pitiful picture:


At this point, when returning the springs, I decided to use the spring compressor just to make it easier, might not have been quicker but it saved a headache:


and here notice the difference in springs w/ vs w/o compressor:


putting the springs back on was fairly simple, and just slowly lower the car, one side at a time, SLOWLY, and guide the springs in place as you slowly lower the jacks. once the spring is in place, slowly lower it and check to make sure struts are lining back up to go in properly and slowly lower it some more and check it....etc. until you get it back on the ground. then use the same hex head and wrench to tighten the strut nuts w/o turning the strut, put rubber back on, put plastic back on, and drive it. final product:


yeah, I know, no difference cause I haven't touched the front yet. From all I've read on here, it'll take a few days for the freshly cut springs to settle, then I'll see a difference, and then I'll lower the front accordingly. ok, 1 suggestion, I did realize by having a jack on each side of car, it made it easier to lower a side and guide parts back in place by myself. also, this was easy enough that the whole time I put the car back together I was talkin on my cell phone and I've never worked w/ suspension before. thanx to everybody on here for advice on how to do it, and I hope this helps others that are weary. last but not least, if I had a lawyer he'd tell me to do this:

this post is merely a suggestion and a log of how I lowered my car. anybody who hurts themselves, their car, their pocketbook, or the neighbors elephant is completely up to them to take care of on their own. I'm not liable for anything you do. and wish I weren't liable for anything I did. any questions?
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#2
nivek2002

Great job on the write up!

but you did a couple things the hard way biggrin.gif

1. Buy a better jack so you can jack from the rear point and place the jackstand on both sides.

2. Take the extra 5 min to unbolt the bottom shock bolt. This way you just remove the shock and spring together. Then take spring off shock, cut, and replace. Bolt lower shock bolt on then the upper. It should not be necessary to lower/guide the car onto the shock into the upper mount when fully extended. Then you can just take the car off the jackstands and your done.

Now clean that garage out! tongue.gif

Again I really appreciate you doing the whole writeup thing, most people learn better from visual things.

Kevin

#3
civtrx

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good stuff!

For people that have seized lower shock bolts though..this is definately a good alternative if they don't feel like buying new shocks and torching off the old bolt like I had to do smile.gif
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#4
nivek2002

QUOTE (civtrx @ Aug 12 2004, 08:01 PM)
good stuff!

For people that have seized lower shock bolts though..this is definately a good alternative if they don't feel like buying new shocks and torching off the old bolt like I had to do smile.gif

lol - Texans forget about that. Good point! That makes this write up AWESOME biggrin.gif

#5
lofreq

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good writeup and pics man smile.gif interesting to see how you did it - i found it easier following what nivek has said - removing the bottom strut bolt as well, thus removing the whole shock and spring... wasnt too hard to refit and didnt need much space to fall out into our hands.

let us know how it settles, i used a non factory spring as a replacement and found it didnt settle at all! so the height was still too high and i had to remove and re-cut to get it right. ohmy.gif

anyway good job !

#6
kamikaze_fish

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thx guys. and as you can see by my pics, I'm sure the bottom bolt is too rusted. laugh.gif didn't even look to see though.
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#7
squareback

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QUOTE (kamikaze_fish @ Aug 13 2004, 10:08 AM)
thx guys.  and as you can see by my pics, I'm sure the bottom bolt is too rusted.

Judging by the rest of the car, I'd say that is likely.

Has your car always lived in that area? Gotta love the winters around here. I did manage to find a fairly clean 86 Civic in the Denver area, though. Surprising considering their winters.

Mike
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#8
kamikaze_fish

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no, that's the really sad part. it came from california, just not sure how long ago. unsure.gif
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#9
LEW

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i put the rear on stands, unbolt the upper shock mt, lower the axle abit (watch the brake lines) releasing the spring abit. then i cover the fender well w/ a bath towl and cut them w/ a grinder on the car, spin the cut piece down the spring and it will come off no prob (if u cut alittle more than a coil at a time) giving a gap allowing u to get it off the lower shock mount. then lift the axle up (reseating the springs) and bolt everything back up.


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#10
nofatchickscarwillscrape

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im doing this tomorrow most likely, can anyone tell me the best amount of spring to cut off, is 1.5 too much?

Marcos

#11
kamikaze_fish

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depends on what look you want and what you use the car for. I only went 1 coil and the car only sits 1/4" lower, even after a week has passed, no settling. I'm probably going to do it again and cut another 1/2 coil but won't go beyond 2 coils cause I do haul alot of stuff in the back and don't wanna rub too bad. But then again I do want a dropped look. We'll see within the next 6 months how I turn up on what I do. laugh.gif

of course right now my main goal is to get the bad motor mount replaced. sad.gif
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#12
nofatchickscarwillscrape

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im not carrying anything and like a low ass stance. i might be storing the car for winter too.

The most weight im carrying is 3, JL 12inch subs, in a heavy ass JL box.. thats it.

Also i like to drive thin girls around. tongue.gif
You think I won't suffer with 2 coils straight off? My new rims make it seem like there is atleast 6 inches between tires and body.


Marcos

#13
kamikaze_fish

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not being a pro at it, you have to take caution in what I say and remember that I know nothing of what I speak. If I were in your position, knowing what I now know about what I did to mine, I would take 2 coils but to be cautious and since it really is a fairly simple job, start maybe with 1 and if that doesn't do it, take it off half's at a time then.
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my gosh thats like killing puppies and infants while burning flags all at the same time!!!!

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#14
nofatchickscarwillscrape

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Okay sounds cool, im gonna go for 2. Don't worry I won't get outraged and sue you if it's too low, ill be sending you paypal.

One more question. Do you guys have any tips for the front end?

Marcos

#15
1swift1500s

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QUOTE (nofatchickscarwillscrape @ Aug 20 2004, 10:12 AM)
One more question. Do you guys have any tips for the front end?

do a search on torsion bars, you'll have to re-index to get a slammed look... plus camber plates

as for the rear, if you want to sit in the weeds, you'll need an adjustable pan hard bar (if going down more than 1½"), otherwise you will have serious handling problems and possibly brake the mount... just fyi
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Edited by 1swift1500s, 24 September 2004 - 01:22 PM.

87 Teg... now in parts... new Si for swap
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