11 replies to this topic

[racers10]

Has anyone replaced the master cylinder and booster with only a master cylinder unit with any sucess?? On my FP 85 Civic, in order to make extra clearance for dual sidedraft carbs, I tried a Wilwood unit (5/8 and 3/8 bores). The units bolted directly to the firewall mount and came with resevoir. I only had to do a line adaptor.

Sounds ideal but, but braking felt like I was standing on a brick!! I even tried removing the stock prop valve and running a singel rear line through an adjustable proportioning valve. Still standing on brick (no lock up though)

Before I spend more time/money I was hoping someone else may have found an answer.

Thanks

[fhrcng]

Mine work the same as well everyone else' that I know that run them this way. Hi pedal effort with little braking effect. You'll need two things here:
1) bigger leg muscles
2) better brake pads

[pmpicci]

You can also use that 3/8 bore and try to find some larger calipers. The increase in ratio will allow more clamping force. You'll have to find a way to reposition the brake pedal to compensate for the increased travel...or cut a hole in the firewall.

[CSPCRX]

my CSP cars have no boosters. Takes a little getting used to but pad combo has a lot to do with how it works.

[gtpilot]

Why not convert it to dual Master Cylinders and use short Tilton Master Cylinders? I converted my stock pedal assembly to use the Tilton Bias Bar and made an adapter plate that holds the Master Cylinders.

kirk

[B CLARK]

There is a math formula used to determine proper master cyl size. You need to know the diameter and number of pistons in each caliper. From that you can get to the 1st guess on master cly size.
It is pretty darn close doing it this way. The best method is to use the mentioned Tilton pedal assembly. Hope this helps.

Bob

[jsgprod]

I like Kirks dual Tilton setup also but to date I've been able to get my stock M/C to work quite well.

I have had my booster gutted for a few years now and I really haven't noticed a big difference in pedal effort on the track wittout it. I tried a larger M/C, from a Prelude I think, last year and did have a hard pedal but like you mention it took a huge pedal effort. Took it out after one session.

I just this summer finally got around to removing the booster and mounting the stock M/C to the firewall. I also mounted a Tilton bias adjuster inline to the rear brakes.

The front output of the master cylinder was routed to the front brakes and the rear one to the rear brakes. I dissasembled the stock prop. valve and gutted it. Then I made sure all the inputs and outputs (3 each) had the same orifice size. In other words, I drilled some of them. Then I plugged the bottom of it with a pipe plug and used them to split the master cylinder output lines to each front wheel and each rear wheel.

It worked great. I have better pedal feel than I had before and I can adjust the pressure to the rear brakes whenever I want.

Jay

[dmotoguy]

im using one tilton, but its just for my front brakes...

[Gasoline Fumes]

I had stock brakes with the booster taken out. I loved it. My parents both drove the car without complaining too.

[racers10]

Thanks!!!! I had a feeling that I was overcomplicating the problem.
Not a new concept for racers. I will have to try running just the master, as I already have the adjustable rear bias conrol plumbed in.

[CRXfanatic]

I have not tried it, but "I have heard" that if the pedal takes too much effort, get a smaller MC. It makes sense to me, considering things I've done and heard about the different stock vs. teg vs. prelude brake parts used on CRXs...

[toxicshit]

i like the tilton pedalbox setup.. with the dual masterbrake cylinders inside the car.. and the clutch adjuster inside the car etc.. thats one of the first things im going to buy next year.. when the new motor and turbo drops in.

Greetz Erwin.