22 replies to this topic

[jpelle]

Working on pulling my engine -- I still have to pull the driveaxles, detach the shift linkage, and detach the exhaust pipe. Three things left to do = three things that can give me problems!

1. OMG! Balljoints suck! I eventually separated the steering knuckle from the balljoint stud, using a 'tuning fork' style balljoint puller, but not without ripping the protective boot!
a. Is there a better way to do this?
b. Once the boot is ripped, is the only way to fix it by replacing the radius arm?
2. I got the torque rod detached no prob, but the shift rod is another matter. That stupid pin won't come out. Any suggestions?
3. There's no way I'm getting the exh mani separated from the pipe, so I'm detaching the pipe a bit further down -- just past the oil pan. There's two spring loaded bolts holding two pieces of pipe together, but getting these bolts off is a PITA. They loosen to a point then stick. Is there something 'special' about these bolts?

Thanks!

[rpr]

1. There is a better tool:



As for replacing the boot, um, you can try, but they use some crazy spring clip that I've never been able to reuse. If the balljoint is suspect, might as well replace the arm. That's not much fun either.

2. There are some other threads (search for bitch pin) that state using an 8mm punch will work. I usually grind off the heads of the u-joint linkage and use a bolt to put it back together.

3. Cut the bolts with a cut-off tool, dremel, grinder, or hack saw. Then get new ones. Or if you have air tools they should come off.

[wannab16a]

when i changed my clutch i tore that boot, go to an autoparts place, they should have it. that spring loaded junction in your exhaust should be the ass end of your header pipe. try using some liquid wrench, because it does just "come off", there is no trick. i used a punch to knock out the pin in the shift linkage. i dont recall the exact size, but it was thin as heck. just tapped it with a hammer. i used the same tuner fork ball joint seperator. all that you need is a decent hammer and the ability to hit the seperator repeatedly AS HARD AS YOU CAN regardless of the obnoxious amount of noise it makes. when all else fails, sit back, take a breather an think of a better way to attack the problem.


....... alright, disregard whatever i posted that doesn't directly agree with the above post.......

Edited by wannab16a, 30 September 2003 - 01:29 PM.

[jpelle]

1. I saw that tool in my manual too, but I haven't found one in any stores yet (didn't look too long though).

3. I was thinking that. I'll work on it a bit more before I resort to that.

Thanks.

[gtpilot]

1. OMG!  Balljoints suck!  I eventually separated the steering knuckle from the balljoint stud, using a 'tuning fork' style balljoint puller, but not without ripping the protective boot!
  a. Is there a better way to do this?
  b. Once the boot is ripped, is the only way to fix it by replacing the radius arm?

Some people use a Swing Press (BFH) and just hit the radius arm on the side until the ball joint pops out - I don't like doing it that way, I prefer the ball joint fork. I can buy the ball joint boots from the Honda dealer, you should be able to also - just replace them, not the radius arm...

2. I got the torque rod detached no prob, but the shift rod is another matter.  That stupid pin won't come out.  Any suggestions?

The bitch pin can be, well, a bitch...WD40, PB Blaster or your favorite rust dissolver and a bigger Swing Press and a 8mm punch or a 5/16" punch. Each some Cheerios before hand...

They loosen to a point then stick.  Is there something 'special' about these bolts?

Just get a wrench on each end of the bolt and take them off...I use 1/2" drive (12.7mm for you North of the border) when I am working with those bolts...again, eat some more Cheerios...

Seriously, you are almost there, don't get frustrated buy a few rusted bolts now.

Kirk

[rpr]

...I use 1/2" drive (12.7mm for you North of the border) when I am working with those bolts...

I was going to challenge you to buy a 12.7mm wrench, but then realized you would just say: "I have one, it's called 1/2 inch".

[gtpilot]

...I use 1/2" drive (12.7mm for you North of the border) when I am working with those bolts...

I was going to challenge you to buy a 12.7mm wrench, but then realized you would just say: "I have one, it's called 1/2 inch".

BWAHAAHAAAAHAAAAA! Of course I would...

We have metric 7/16" wrences also...an 11mm...

Kirk

[jpelle]

Yup, almost there.

1. I'll talk to Honda about that boot. The problem with my manual is that it sometimes says things that aren't true (for my car). Re: this boot it says that it cannot be replaced separately. We'll see.

2. I'm headed out the door to get some more tools. Punch, BFH, balljoint puller (non-fork kind)...

3. The biggest problem with these bolts are that one end is so rusted that none of my wrenches will fit on them properly. I've been trying to using a locking vise grip and that worked to a point -- now the bolt just slips anyway. If all else fails, I'll just cut it. I don't think I'll be reusing my existing exhaust pipe anyway.

Thanks all!

[rpr]

Good luck. None of these are insurmountable, just frustrating. Trust me, I've been there, in way worse than you. The end result is usually very gratifying.

[jpelle]

Update (if you're interested =) ):

1. Got the first axle out and popped ball joint on the other side... and ripped that boot too (couldn't find a different ball joint remover that would fit). Called Honda and it turns out that I can replace the boot -- it's the balljoint itself that cannot be replaced.

2. Bitch pin. Good name. Still not out, even with my new BFH and punches.

3. Got these out though. Turns out that the nut is a 7/16 while the bolt is a 14mm. Lots of WD-40 and Cheerios later... voila! The exhaust is detached!

Gotta go and get that pin, now!

[Ghost-One]

tape your punchto something long and hammer tyhe pin fromthe top ... works like a MFIN charm

[Greg Gauper]

Don't force it, get a bigger hammer!!

Try Wheaties instead of Cheerios.

If/When you get the pin out, put a dab of anti-sieze on the pin and in the hole before replacing. When I pulled my tranny a few weks ago, the (previously coated) pin came out with no trouble at all.

BTW, I bought one of the ball joint tools advertised on the mini-mania site. Looks like a decent unit but haven't used it yet.

[rpr]

I saw that tool, let us know how it works.

[Disco Stu]

If you're going to replace the arm for the new balljoint, get the poly bushing kit from prothane. Honestly, with my bumbling it took a good 3-4 hours to do both sides of the car. All you need is a 24mm socket, the tools to seperate the ball joint and tie rod (which you may also consider replacing if it's in shoddy condition), wrenches for the tie rod and ball joint, and whatever sizes to get the bolts and nuts off the radius rod, plus some vice grips and a propane torch to get stuff loosened. It's all pretty darn easy, I might do a write up on how I did mine and post it later this week. It's honestly a pretty easy swap.

[katulu]

it's a little hard to explain, but I made a punch to take out the bitch pin:

basically, I took a phillips head, ground it to the size of the hole, and ground a little lip on it that allowed the leading edge to center into the pin, but the outer lip pushes on the pin, I can send pics, just need time to take them