38 replies to this topic

[the_lorax]

Last week I pulled my gen 1 CR-X out of retirement, greeted the spider who'd taken up residence in the doors and took it for a warrant of fitness (a NZ vehicle safety inspection). It passed with ease, although the inspector noted the rust hole in the hatch and double checked that I was going to fix it. I put a temporary sticker over the hole and called it a day. Gotta love local garages.

Anyhow the ZC in the bay wasn't quick enough for me, so I slowly collected parts on the cheap while building up my other Nissans. The plan is to throw this stuff in temporarily and drive around on it and save for a faster engine and gearbox package.

Hasport Mounts


Auto B16A2 out of a EG9 SIR for $250 NZD ($192 USD) with 250,000km on the clock. Complete with dizzy, ecu and manifolds.

We drove very slowly for about 4km with this hanging out of here.

Y1 non-lsd gearbox with a sloppy input shaft
EF8 Axles
Clutch and flywheel, also from the EF8. We wrecked a riced-up EF8 out and got all these parts for free.



We got to work on Sunday afternoon.

Its very important to remove the plastic panels before starting an engine converison. I will be getting the guards plastic welded.


Removed the ZC and donated it to Aaron.


Removed the peashooter exhaust with rattling resonator from the car and threw it on the scrap pile. This is what we refer to as a 'NZ Spec' fix. Someone has welded the smallest cheapest exhaust pipe on here to fix a leaking exhaust without spending much money. The piping was smaller than factory, about the size of one of the ZC exhaust manifold pipes and it won't be flowing very well.


Because my car was right hand drive and came with a ZC in it I had to get the AV Integra mount kit as the CRX cambelt side mount is slightly different.

Also, we had to grind a small patch on the steering crossmember to get the rear mount to sit flat. I'm guessing this doesn't have to be done on LHD cars.


We were running short of time and couldn't be bothered removing the rocker cover to get the cambelt cover off to remove the unused engine mount, so Aaron did what he does best and screwdrivered the crap out of it. At this point, please remember that this is a $200 auto engine and these motors are really common over here.


Misc Photos of Engine Install:

Edited by the_lorax, 17 January 2011 - 03:03 AM.

[the_lorax]

Air tools are great




In the bay, after three test fits and a lot of bashing the frame rail

Edited by the_lorax, 17 January 2011 - 02:58 AM.

[the_lorax]

Currently we are waiting on a manual starter motor, EK rear engine bracket. Aaron has pre-prepared a standalone OBD1 wiring loom from the EG9 Chassis harness. I have no idea how he did this, but I am very grateful for his mad skills.






It still needs a bit more wiring in the engine bay to complete this, along with the shift linkage (EF8 or stock ZC looks like it will work), exhaust, radiator hoses, fluids (random oil I had sitting around for now, with 10-30 to go in the sloppy gearbox). And yes, I will put actual coolant in the B16A2



We are also going to need a starter motor, rear engine mount bracket and some sort of wiring trickery to get a speed signal to the ECU (perhaps the digidash I have sitting around could be used for this?)

Future plans involve a genuine Mugen kit restoration, paint and a built engine, but I will only get there slowly as I'm focussing on exporting parts to you guys along with Alex (3GCVC). I'm just looking forward to driving her with a b-series for now.

Edited by the_lorax, 17 January 2011 - 03:04 AM.

[the_lorax]

reserved

[the_lorax]

reserved

[anjin]

Nice to you back and active. Good luck with the build

[the_lorax]

Cheers.

Here is the same car in its former glory in 2009.




Looking at those photos makes me sad. I'm quite rough on cars but I need to do this car properly. I won't be able to get another one because there aren't many left.

Edited by the_lorax, 17 January 2011 - 04:28 AM.

[the_lorax]

Update:

Aaron came around and sorted the wiring & alternator issue today. The alternator was swapped for a smaller DOHC ZC one. The frame rail dent wasn't big enough so the b16 alternator was fouling and we didn't want to pull the motor out again.


She starts and runs now. We also test fitted some axles - EF8 and DOHC ZC AT civic si axles with the EF8 halfshaft. All possible combinations were too long, so it looks like we need to get some first generation integra hubs and arms to increase the track slightly.

- Tim

Edited by the_lorax, 21 January 2011 - 07:05 AM.

[anjin]

Just going through the axle exercise with a mugen racecar project here. Tried a rebuilt integra one, and could not quite get it to fit. It was very close, but there was no movement in the axle laterally at all. We have been lucky enough to source some aftermarket axles shafts that are about 7mm shorter than the integra ones, and just fit in with a small amount of lateral movement. Its a temporary measure until we get the proper size - hasport or locally made. One thing to watch out for - we found the spline shape for the inner hub varies if you are trying d series etc axles. The splines on the axle are too wide at the top to fit into our Y1 cable box.


If you do find integra radius arms for a good price pm me as I'd love a couple of sets. In Australia they all seem to be the one, shorter size.


And a suggestion on the alternator - try shorter belts, There are a couple standard ones that are 10 and 15mm shorter, and that gives you a bit more clearance. And if you go underdrive crank pulleys you need even shorter city ones.

[kakabox]

If you do find integra radius arms for a good price pm me as I'd love a couple of sets. In Australia they all seem to be the one, shorter size.

Still appear to be available from here: http://www.acuraoemp...FR._RADIUS_ARM#

...claims to be an Acura Integra part for '86-'89 Integras. Clic on "Diagrams" and look for item 9

Nice project btw Ian.

J.

[the_lorax]

Been doing some reading and it turns out the halfshaft from a b16a integra is 16mm shorter than the EF8 CR-X item. Looks like I'm going to need one of these to get the correct length axle on the passengers sid

[OG Wagon]

Great project Ian!

Yeah, your axle stuff will work itself out. Sorry to hear your striking out currently though. Reminds me of trying to find the right axles for the 87 wagon a couple of years back. I kept on getting 2WD axles, as all of the parts stores had incorrect part numbers in their systems. So frustrating!

Best of luck on getting the right combo ordered/sourced.

[anjin]

Tim's project in this thread, Mike and Ian in the mugen racecar, just to avoid confusion.

Tim - the integra shaft should be what we tried - it was just too long. Integra arms might have saved the situation. Give it a trial anyhow, just in case, but don't buy it yet!


Thanks for the heads up on the arms. I'll double check here with Honda just in case, but the major part supplier (who does supply Honda) doesn't have the longer one listed.

[the_lorax]

More progress for tonight.

All dash lights wired up. Battery, Alternator, PGMFI Light, Reverse lights, Rev Counter, Speedo etc.
Speedo drive installed.
Throttle cable bodgied to work
Wiring made permanent in the engine bay.
Digidash tested - for some reason the main screen didn't light up but all the dash lights etc did. Suspect we have some wiring to do between the EDM CR-X and the 1.5i JDM digidash.


Going to a wreckers yard tomorrow, hopefully I find the axle parts I need. It's now just axles, radiator, exhaust, vss to ecu and we are up and vtecing.

- Tim

Edited by the_lorax, 22 January 2011 - 04:47 AM.

[AccordB20A]

Shouldnt be too long till this drives, hopefully tim can get the axles sorted, ill finish the wiring on the next day im up there to help. Ill check my digital dash wiring to see if it is different to yours. When will you be doing work on it next?