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Post Smog Removal Drama


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#1
150DollarRacer

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Calling All people who have done the smog removal procedure. Whats the deal? I pulled all the smog equipment off and after some issues I am at the point where the engine runs but it won't idle and it diesels like crazy.

Now... I did some googling to figure out the diesel issue. It turns out that the fuel cutoff solenoid will only engage when you shut the engine off when the RPMS are under 1400RPMs. Fast idle is at like 2700rpm and when I start the car it stays there till I turn it off. Hence no fuel shutoff.

Not cool. I need help figuring out why it wont idle. Here are the latest carb pictures:

http://engr.ucsb.edu...junk/civic/new/

Im not going to show them here since they are huge.

Im hoping to figure it out by tomorrow but any assistance tonight would be greatly appreciated!

~Adrian

Edited by 150DollarRacer, 16 April 2004 - 08:13 PM.


#2
deadpool7372

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... biggrin.gif

Reminder:
I have been following 150DollarRacer's post and I have configured my carb the same as his.

I have the same problem.

The only difference between his and mine is that I used new caps to plug all lines and for the vac hoses that were kept I used new lines. So we can rule out bad lines and lines leaking... cool.gif

However...
I have the same issue.
- Idles at 27000-3000 RPM
- Runes way to rich.
- Thanks to DarkHand's pic I finely found the mixture screw and that did no good as well...

So were both in the same boat.
- Garth
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Lubbock, TX representing. Ya HeaRd! :)

#3
87X

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if you doing this on an Si you have to keep one thing the only thing with wires leading to it it controls the idle, that must be connected, otherwise i have no f*ckin clue there was a post not long ago on this and it linked to another post or something that completely described the whole procedure and what you should keep, do a search on it if this doesnt fix your problem.

#4
150DollarRacer

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I already did the search and followed the pictures and such.

The wires you talk about are for the fuel cutoff solenoid.

#5
bigk3000

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well its not an si cause si's are fuel injected... and he looks liek a stock civic carbbed 1.5
EXPLOSIVO!
84 Civic Hatchback 1500S-w/ d16 blacktop :P
86 Nissan 300zx GLL

user posted image

SportInjectedClub
user posted image

#6
deadpool7372

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Stock 1.5 carb DX, Right, Right... smile.gif

I have been reading posts on here since I became a member.
A lot of research.
But I'm a newb to the carb thing...
(That’s why I wanted to experiment with his one...)

Anywho.
Lets get em running! tongue.gif
QUOTE
Tom/RPR: You know you are hardcore when you remove the SEAT COVER!
Lubbock, TX representing. Ya HeaRd! :)

#7
boosted_zc

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All these posts are scaring me from taking the emissions stuff of my CRX. Now that i've got it running perfect i really don't feel like having the same problems you guys are having.
I even have the all knowing all seeing CRX Fanatic to help me out and it still scares me. Maybe i'll grow some gonads and do it. Haha, i'll just wait til you guys figure yours out.
If it has an engine....i will tear it apart.

90 Civic Si
87 CRX DX !!SOLD!!
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02 CRV (the wifey's)

#8
150DollarRacer

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I hope I get it figured out soon. The race is about a month away and I need to get this sorted out so that I can concentrate on other things.

Damn you carburator!

#9
Rollin

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It might be risky but you could put in a cut off switch to the "cut-off solenoid". So you could turn the car off and then cut the fuel.
- Just Rollin, bruised and rebuilt but Rollin.
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#10
deadpool7372

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I fixed it! I fixed it! biggrin.gif

Ok, well I either fixed it or made it work.
There is a difference… rolleyes.gif

I noticed that ""THIS*" was engaged.
If I pulled on it the RPM’s settled down.
So I removed the pin that held this in and the push rod circled below now runs freely though that mettle bracket with the hole in it. K, yall know if ya looke…
After it was all done I just had to adjust the idle…

I have not test driven her yet and I’m going to do that now.
I will post results after I’m done. cool.gif

*Pic of this:
http://members.cox.n...l/Carb This.bmp

- Garth

Edited by deadpool7372, 17 April 2004 - 05:26 PM.

QUOTE
Tom/RPR: You know you are hardcore when you remove the SEAT COVER!
Lubbock, TX representing. Ya HeaRd! :)

#11
deadpool7372

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Well…
Again, I don’t know if its fixed or just working.

It drives fine. ohmy.gif
No problems. ohmy.gif ohmy.gif

Still a little rich so I will be adjusting that.
I will be getting an oil change and full tank of gas so I will let everyone know the MPG.
Thank for the advice everyone.

- Garth biggrin.gif
QUOTE
Tom/RPR: You know you are hardcore when you remove the SEAT COVER!
Lubbock, TX representing. Ya HeaRd! :)

#12
150DollarRacer

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Ok, so I think I got it figured out. First, I tried again to find a vacuum leak and found that some air was leaking in at the base plate area so I unbolted the rubber base plate from the manifold and carb and applied some silicone sealant and after it dried I bolted it back together.

And then, while just putzing with different linkages I noticed that one in particular caused the idle to drop:



It turns out that if manifold vacuum is applied at this diaphragm the engine ran perfectly fine. Cold idle is around 2000rpm and once it warms up it drops down to around 1100 or so which is not the 800 it was before its better and allows the fuel cutoff solenoid to work as it should.

Im guessing the high idle is probably due to a vacuum leak elsewhere. Maybe the blockoff plates aren't working perfectly. Ah well. Problem solved!

Now to adjust the mixture setting to get it running perfectly.

#13
deadpool7372

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So perhaps mine was just a fix. dry.gif

Your pic is a red X.
Can you please repost?

-Garth
QUOTE
Tom/RPR: You know you are hardcore when you remove the SEAT COVER!
Lubbock, TX representing. Ya HeaRd! :)

#14
150DollarRacer

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http://www.imagestat...70/f8f9b135.jpg

thats the link to the picture

#15
deadpool7372

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Forbidden
rolleyes.gif biggrin.gif mad.gif
QUOTE
Tom/RPR: You know you are hardcore when you remove the SEAT COVER!
Lubbock, TX representing. Ya HeaRd! :)