TimM888GT

Hey guys, so I am rebuilding a D15a3, I completely dissassembled the head, took off rocker arms, camshaft, valves, springs, everything. I took it to a machine shop (I now don't trust) but they said the Head was warped due to overheating and the 3 valves I took them were Bent. So I am in the process of doing the rebuild myself, and was wondering if I could reassemble the Head and then take it to another machine shop.

My question, Can I take a completely assembled head to a machine shop? I don't want to put it back together and then have them say something about "charging for disassembly" or "you need to take it apart before we look at it" Would they say something like that or am I crazy?

And if the Valves are bent like the first shop said, where should I get Valves? I have seen them for like $7-12 a piece.
Thanks, Jeremy

Well having the head apart makes it easier for them to resurface anyways, but if you really want to put it back together first, call the machine shop and ask them if they will disassemble it and whether or not they will charge you to do so. But like I said, its easier for them to resurface it when its just the head and not the head and valvetrain together. As far as the valves go I'm not sure where you should get those, but I would get ones that are made in the USA and not some cheap chinese junk.

So what's the answer to my question? HAHA

Sorry, done with thread jacking, lol. I think what he means is he can't find any high quality aftermarket bearings like for a racing application, but when he tears the motor apart the inexpensive bearings seem to hold up just fine to the abuse. If you can find some higher quality bearings though I'd definitely use those, bearings are something you shouldn't cheap out on.

There isn't any sealer on the bolts when you pull them out, so why start now? Most people just use oil bases lube, if your going ARP, then use ARP lube.

There was sealer on mine when I pulled them out. The first time I replaced the head gasket on my car after I finished the head gasket started leaking as soon as I started the car. So I took everything apart and did everything exactly the same accept I used thread sealer the 2nd time around, and after the engine was all back together, I started it up, and there were no leaks at all. Its seems like everyone on the forum is just using oil though, so I guess I torqued the head bolts incorrectly my first time. The head gasket I'm replacing now though is on my friends CRX, so I can't mess up this time around, thats why I wanted to know for sure. I contacted ARP and they told me they didn't make head bolts for the EW1 anymore. Whats the part number of the ARP bolts your referring to?

Yeah i see how that sounds, what I mean is new inexpensive bearings work fine. I use WD 40 on head, main, and rod bolts, and loctite on flywheel and clutch bolts, Dave

But some of the head bolts run into the water jacket, if you don't use sealer on them coolant will start leaking from your head gasket as soon as you start the car. So you don't use any sealer at all on your head bolts then?

Engine is an EW1 btw.