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Crx - B18c1 Jdm Swap


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#16
anjin

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An update. Been collecting pieces for the engine swap. Hasport mounts, BLOX intake manifold which will match the head, cable manual gearbox off a B16, OBX lsd.

While waiting I have been simplifying the wiring off the front cut. Just about done that - only the rear wiring to finish working out now. there is a lot of excess wiring in a box now.

Last night started the intake manifold swap. Just about done - but the spacers for thefuel rail are too large so I have to work out the correct spacer size.
The haynes manua;l states that the Fast Idle Thermostat assembley sitting on the bottom of the B18C throttle body is only for the Autp box engines, so after a check I'll probably remore that. Lots more space in there after the secondary valve control stuff is removed as well.

With luck, this weekend sees the lsd into the gearbox. Never been into a gearbox before, so it will be a slow exercise.

The dash has been on hold while I got the wiring sorted - getting that in will be easier if the dash is out again. Still looking good though.
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#17
anjin

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another update. Got an OBX lsd for the gearbox. After taking the gearbox apart found that the bearings on the diff attach to the diff and not the casing - makes sense when I think about it. Took it to a local shop to swap over the bearings and speedo gear. One of the obx shafts is a bit undersize and the ebaring will slip on and of. Loctite. As the car won't be a track only car but should see a lot of dd use I am hoping this works.

After the gearbox is back together its close to go for inserting the engine.
anjin aka Ian

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#18
a3h87

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thats pretty cool.hows the leg room?
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#19
anjin

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QUOTE (a3h87 @ Aug 3 2007, 11:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
thats pretty cool.hows the leg room?

Leg room seems ok - about the same.

Update on progress.
I've stripped out the engine bay and started preparing that. Bits of rust - mainly under the brake master cylinder - to be fixed.
I'm going to remove the heater and the ac cores, and the heater control valve on the firewall and the heater hoses. A caravan style ceramic heater will go into the air flow passage somewhere instead. Instant demist.

I removed the two interlocks from the teg ignition switch, so I can use that now with the teg wiring which is a bonus aas the original switch is missing.

The teg dash is out of the car and getting mounted to a frame with the rest of the wiring and the engine so I can complete wiring checks outside of the car. This weekend I already tested turning over the engine, headlights and indicators, and the liek. With the dash attached I will see how the instrument cluster etc works.

A interesting find on the starter motor - I grounded the battery to the normal valve cover bolt, but nothing happened. After a bit of trouble shooting found that the valve cover is completely electrically isolated from the engine by gaskets and grommets for the bolts. No wonder the starter motor wouldn't go! Earthed the battery to a dufferent spot and away it went.
Another interesting bit about the starter motor - the manual and auto starter motors have different pattern mounts and don't interchange.
anjin aka Ian

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#20
anjin

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Update

I fitted the engine side mount to the motor, and then measured the clearances form that. Found I has 50cm from the mount to the back of the im, and about 50.5 cm from the mount to the firewall. Added two cm clearance after removing the heater, airbox, ac and fan assemblys and bashing in a section of the firewall with a sledgehammer to make space for the intake manifold. Will be interesting putting them back in some shape and form. See the dished firewall.


Then started fitting the Hasport mounts, and struck a problem I haven't seen mentioned anywhere else yet. The rear engine mount fitting fouls the section of the steering rack that supports the steering column take-off. This is because i have a 'rest of the world' RHD steering rack where this take off occupies the space normally used by the LHD type Hasport mount, which is manufactured to leave space for the take-off bracket on the other side. So a little grinding will be required to get it to fit. Maybe some welding as well if I have to cut into the weld on that part of the bracket, but I hope not.

Also did an initial trail fit of the integra brake booster into the firewall spot. I wasn't very hopeful as it is quite a bit wider, but the bolts lined up and it looks like it will just fit in the space with no left over clearance at all. The piston fitting to the brake pedal is a little longer as well, but that is adjustable. I'll be looking at this more closely over the next couple of days, but it may be that the complete integra booster and master cylinder assembly will fit. I'll definitely post details.

here are some pictures of the comparison.




Finally, shots of the wiring harness testing rig - engine, wiring harness, dash, combination switch and battery.





Yes it has a pulse
anjin aka Ian

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#21
anjin

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The integra booster fits. As you can see, it is pretty tight to the firewall. Note this is s RHD car - US cars might have different layouts.
There is a little protusion into the booster 'dish' just below the clutch cable hole. I bashed that in just to be safe, but it probably fits without doing that. I had to bend the brake line that travels below the booster across to the other side of the car to clear the booster. Otherwise a straight and easy fit. The connection to the brake pedal itself was a straight fit - no adjustment required.




The master cylinder gave a bit more trouble. There are two brake lines from it to the proportioning valve. The outer one was a straight bolt up, but the inner one uses a larger diameter connector. I made up a replacement line from the brake line with this larger connector, and added a smaller connector to the other end that goes into the proportioning valve. Easy if you have a flaring tolol, otherwise a brake shop should be able to do it. Haven't fitted the engine in yet, but it should be ok. The air intake from the throttle body might have to take a bit of a bend.

As far as I know, this is a new option for bigger brakes - replace both the booster and the master cylinder with the DB(8) series teg ones. Just make sure you get the larger diameter connector with it.
I just reviewed strudel's post on the 90 civic replacements under the pinned big brake thread, and this teg one does seem to be different although Honda could well be reusing components.

If anyone tries this in the US I'd be interested to know the differences between LHD and RHD.
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#22
rollz87civic

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Is this car going to be a AUTO?
SACHR member be hate for who you are not loved for who your not.

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RIP GLEN

#23
anjin

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No. It has a b16 Y1 box with an obx lsd. The donor was an auto, and that means a lot of wiring has been cut out and the indicator lights for the auto gear in the dash have been painted over.
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#24
GENONE

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I can't wait to see this thing run Ian, let alone tear up the track! smile.gif 800kgs and 170+ WHP

Edited by GENONE, 19 August 2007 - 07:16 PM.

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[GENONE] 1983 CRX Ballade Sports 1.5 SOHC Efi
[BANDIT] 1984 CRX Ballade Sports 1.6 DOHC HKS Supercharged
[SINISTR] 1991 CRX Si 1.6 DOHC Efi

#25
anjin

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Engine is in, sans rear mount where I found the mount I intended to use - off an integra I think - is the wrong 'hand'.

Picture anyhow - clearance under the hood is a bit tight - I can get a hand in there between the hood and the valve cover just. Firewall etc clearance is fine which is good news for working on the engine.



Now to get on with the rest. I also tried out the integrs heater unit for fit as it comes with nice controls etc - looks like it will fit even with the firewall based in 2 cm as there is still space between the firewall and the unit. The air con will definitely not be in - which means I could do the original gen 1 fan, a tube, and then the teg heater and flow control. But I am not yet convinced.
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#26
anjin

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Project went on hold for a few days - family members sick, #3 son wrote off his car, and reasonable amount of work on. But just started a month holiday, so progress should be good now.
Spent this afternoon and evening starting the swap in of teg rear disc brakes - weather was too good to be indoors doing other stuff. One hub is in with the disc, yet to do the caliper. The big brake guide is quite useful on this.

By the time this the rears are done done the only original brake parts on the car will be the brake pedal assembly, and the brake lines. Everything else will be gen 1 or gen 3 integra.
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#27
1stgenfan

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wow im pretty blown away by the work you've done so far biggrin.gif motor looks good, and that dash is amazing. keep posting pics i really enjoy watching this build.
QUOTE (RARECRX @ Nov 4 2008, 03:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have taken the $300 John Force drag racing Course . Now I know what the champions do thus making me, in sense, a champion.


#28
punaspeed

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looks unreal dude. i'm starting to bounce around of putting a b18c in my 3g Si. didn't know what kind of hell i'd be in store for. you have certainly showed that its not impossible or all that difficult. where theres a will theres away. keep up the great work. its certainly inspiring me to go ahead with my thought of a type r swap in a 3g. mind you that i don't have alot of thoughts in the first place.
if i only had a brain, and knew how to use it, i might just be dangerous


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#29
anjin

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While waiting for some hard to find parts to surface locally (99-00 civic rear engine mount and intermediate shafts are surprisingly rare in western australia) I have done the gen1 teg rear disc brake conversion.
Just a couple of points to add to the big brake thread - due to the differences in the access to the brake caliper mounting bolts (the teg has a hole in the arm for the forward mount point, the drum arm does not), the routing and securing of the brake line, and the routing of the handbrake lines, I would recommend a full replacement of the axle and trailing arms. It becomes more of a drop out/drop in exercise, as well.
Two examples, I had to break off the brake line attachment plate for the drum brake cylinder to get the space to drop in the disc caliper; and the flexible brake line falls into an unsafe position on its own and has to be fixed elsewhere.
I would also recommend taking the hubs ends apart right to the stub axle and the end's of the tube so you can check out the condition of fittings and particularly the bearings - one of my original hubs left the inner end of the bearing on the stub axle when I removed it. Between your old and the replacement hubs and stubs you can chose the best set. I also had a leaking cylinder on one side, and the space between the tube end and stub axle was wet with brake fluid. It was good to clean that up.
If you are doing just the brake and hub replacement on the passenger side in the states - the one with the link - put the caliper bolts in before you add the hub as otherwise there is not enough clearance to the trailing arm to get that bolt in. Small point, but it was a pain to undo things again to get that clearance.
And be methodical about taking bits off in sequence so you can put them back correctly without any drama. One side at a time. Guess who didn't.

One final little thing - found a great way to get those screws that secure the rotor to the hub out. First use some penetrating lubricant. Wait twenty minutes. Then use a shifting spanner and one of those phillips head/star screw driver bits that come with screw driver kits or drill bit kits, and a hammer; tap the bit while applying some rotation and out it comes. You don't have use a lot of force. It's essentially an impact screwdriver set-up using other tools from your collection.

Otherwise its much as described in the big brake thread, which I found very useful.
anjin aka Ian

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#30
anjin

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Update.
Ended up cutting a mount up and welding in new attachment points to match the hasport mount on the crossmemeber. The local yards just don't get many of the newer Si 99-00 civics in, and I didn't want to wait. My welding skills were rusty, so I'm glad the rear mount is hard to see. But the engine is properly in.

The cv joints have been a problem. I didn't get the HASPORT mounts as a local member had already got some for a stroked B16b project, and the hasports stubs were too long into the diff and intermediate shaft. That was a very big surprise, and given shipping costs and delays I was reluctant to go with the Hasports.
So a local shop is making up a set. The good news is that if you are going with the first gen teg hubs, then the ends of the teg (DA1) drive shafts are useable with a manual DA6 intermediate shaft and the Y1 b series cable box. The only hard bit is the 'core' shaft which has to be 375mm long (I'll have to verify that length - could be 385.) The shortest core shaft the local shop could find was 25mm longer than that, so its a re-manufacture job. Once its all done i'll post it up here as a reference for those who want to do their own. For information, the HASPORT price in the USA is pretty good value - I'll end up paying quite a bit more than the HASPORTS price. Again, I don't want the delay and possible return and reorder.

The next stage is to do all the engine bay bits - radiator and fan, gearshifters, fuel lines and filter, alternator, and so on. Then install the wiring and dash.

I am deleting the water based heating hoses and heater core to help clean up the engine bay and improve accessability, and remove a couple of failure points in the radiator circuit . I'll put in a ceramic electric caravan fan heater into the fan airflow for demisting. Western Australia is warm to hot for about 8-9 months, so in car heating is not really necessary. Also, when you need demisting the water isn't hot yet - an electric heater will be better then, and weight a lot less. The fan will sit in a custom tube between the gen1 crx fan and the DC2 teg airbox - where the aircon core used to be.
anjin aka Ian

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