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Woe Is Me...read It And Weep.


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#31
rinnaye

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QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Sep 29 2010, 09:37 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Why not just modify your D16 instead of going through that trouble. Get it ported, but on a 2g integra throttle body, get cams and a header and you'll be ahead of the game.
I have a Spun Rod Bearing, so in order to keep my current engine, at the very least, I may need to rebuild/swap the block. I might as well do a complete swap, it'll be less hassle for more power (ZC), and also by doing the swap myself, along with a friend, I'll gain more hands on knowledge, and confidence in working on my car. I ULTIMATELY just need to get rid of an engine which seems to be a bad luck lemon from day one.

#32
Stuckey85si

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What kind of base timing do you run when you plan on spraying your Blacktop?

Thanks,

Joseph

#33
Maine_Honda_Racer

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Why not just modify your D16 instead of going through that trouble. Get it ported, but on a 2g integra throttle body, get cams and a header and you'll be ahead of the game.

Ben


QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Feb 28 2010, 10:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
In fact, I rock out an RPR decal!

#34
Tim

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Well, the boneheads at JEEEGGGGGSSS! sent me the wrong damn kit.

B18A does not sound like D16A1.

Idiots. Been on phone for an hour. Now I gotta send back these head studs.

So, should I just use Acura factory head bolts? I can't find a kit for the browntop D16a1.
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#35
Tim

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does anyone (Deivion, feel free to chime in) know if B18A1 head studs can be used at all in the D16A1??

It would be my luck that I'd send them back and they would just happen to work. Or maybe order that one stud that is slightly longer?

Gotta tell ya, my experience with Jegs has sucked, thus far. Said they were to email me a return sticker...4 hours later, no email.
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#36
Maine_Honda_Racer

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Are you just replacing them for the hell of it or are they broken?

Ben


QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Feb 28 2010, 10:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
In fact, I rock out an RPR decal!

#37
Tim

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QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Sep 29 2010, 10:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Are you just replacing them for the hell of it or are they broken?


They are fine, but with a shaved head, 10 to 1 compression, and a 75 hp nitrous shot, thought it was necessary.

I know nothing. huh.gif
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#38
Maine_Honda_Racer

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Well, I'm hardly a pro, but I've never replaced the head bolts with studs on a d16a1 on a motor before, I know they can stretch, but I've just never done it, and not seen any adverse effects as a result.

Ben


QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Feb 28 2010, 10:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
In fact, I rock out an RPR decal!

#39
SHOGUNOVDDRK

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QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Sep 30 2010, 12:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Are you just replacing them for the hell of it or are they broken?



QUOTE (Tim @ Sep 30 2010, 01:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I know nothing. huh.gif


Which is a good thing.


QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Sep 30 2010, 02:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well, I'm hardly a pro, but I've never replaced the head bolts with studs on a d16a1 on a motor before, I know they can stretch, but I've just never done it, and not seen any adverse effects as a result.


From my personal experiences in the past and recent Honda head studs have a 1 use life, once you pull out time to replace.

Aftermarket like ARP are more efficent and supposedly can have multiple uses, though I wouldn't.
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#40
jsgprod

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QUOTE (Tim @ Sep 29 2010, 11:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
They are fine, but with a shaved head, 10 to 1 compression, and a 75 hp nitrous shot, thought it was necessary.

I know nothing. huh.gif


Honda head bolts (EW/ & D16 at any rate) are not torque to yield, they should be more than sufficient for the application you're describing.

I've been using them for years with no problems on my production racer and I know that gtpilot has used the stock bolts on his old GT5 13:1 compression race motors. At least that's what I remember him telling me.

Just my .02. wink.gif

Jay

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#41
Maine_Honda_Racer

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I'm sorry Shogun, one use and you throw them away? That's a tad bit excessive!

Ben


QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Feb 28 2010, 10:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
In fact, I rock out an RPR decal!

#42
Tim

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Well, today got the nitrous tank installed, behind the seats in the middle (where I can check pressure and turn nozzle without too much effort) and found that while the head was ported and polished on the exhaust side, the intake side was not.

Guess who handled a dremel all afternoon? biggrin.gif

If ARP can get the studs to me by next week, I'll be at the track in two weeks. ph34r.gif
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#43
Tim

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QUOTE (jsgprod @ Sep 30 2010, 06:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Honda head bolts (EW/ & D16 at any rate) are not torque to yield, they should be more than sufficient for the application you're describing.

I've been using them for years with no problems on my production racer and I know that gtpilot has used the stock bolts on his old GT5 13:1 compression race motors. At least that's what I remember him telling me.

Just my .02. wink.gif

Jay


So Jay, you really think I should just get new factory bolts? I will be in debt up to my asscheeks anyway, and if I can save some money, I'm all for it.

My mechanic is a good friend, but I'm not under any assumptions that he will give me any special deal. And I appreciate those .02 cents.
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#44
Maine_Honda_Racer

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Wow, that's some determination, porting a head with a dremel takes CENTURIES! Excellent dedication.

Ben


QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Feb 28 2010, 10:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
In fact, I rock out an RPR decal!

#45
Tim

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QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Sep 30 2010, 07:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wow, that's some determination, porting a head with a dremel takes CENTURIES! Excellent dedication.


I have two dremels, one on charge, the other in my hand, and I'm smoothing out the insides of these intakes. Very rough and coarse. Also knocking off some bumps inside, and smoothing everything up. It took me 2 hours yesterday to get 1 1/2 of these done, so yeah, it's gonna be about 8 hours of going at it. Should help some...... unsure.gif
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