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First Gen Brake Swap Questions........


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#16
cbstdscott

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QUOTE (87ClubRed @ Jul 20 2006, 12:00 PM)
Hmm...interesting.  I've heard of people ordering 'hf' drums, only to get cast iron.  If you can get them, that changes everything.

Can anyone confirm?

This is complicated so please follow closely-

The aluminum drums are still available. They are pricey ($80-90 each new, about $15 each used) but they are available.

The 85-87 CRX HF came from the factory with aluminum drums. You can mount iron drums on the HF backing plate. At about $15 for each iron drum, most shops replace aluminum with iron drums. So it is common to find a CRX HF in the junkyard with iron drums and part shops will sell the iron drum as a replacement part for the HF.

The 1984-87 CRX (Standard and Si) that came with iron drums has a backing plate that will not readily accept the aluminum drums. Some people modify the backing plate, I think it is easier to replace the backing plate. On my '87 Si, I bought a pair of new backing plates from a 1988 Civic.

The backing plate from the 1988 and later Civic/CRX (cars that came from the factory with iron drums) WILL accept the HF aluminum drums. If you have a newer Civic with iron drums, the aluminum drum just slip right on.

Scott
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#17
87ClubRed

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So there you go biggrin.gif

Thanks guys!

#18
dan86si

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Thanks for the help. That's a huge amount of posts in such a short period!

Well, I think my plan for this weekend is thus.........Since the system is 20 years old, I'm going to get the Rex booster and MC together. Since I'm planning on keeping drums on the rear, this should work just fine. Actually, I've had a pair of HF aluminum drums in the garage for years, I couldn't get the backing plates from the salvage because the donor car was infested with wasps. Are the hf backing plates something I can get new?

Hopefully next month I can replace the front discs/calipers with teg units, and order a set of Porterfield pads. I can't find any competition shoes for the rear, any ideas?

Just wondering, might my problem just be the check valve?

#19
cbstdscott

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Yes, you can buy the backing plates new from Honda

Yes, Porterfield will make you shoes for the rear in the same compound as the front pads.

No, your problem is not the check valve or portioning valve. If you are not leaking brake fluid from any spot (check your rear wheel cylinders) and your brake pedal sinks at a stop sign then you need to replace your brake booster.

Scott
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#20
rpr

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If you change backing plates, the aluminum drums from an Insight will fit as well.

And for the front, I prefer the 91 Civic/CRX SI calipers, they have the same size piston as the 84-87 (Integra is a bit larger, thus has longer pedal travel) but there are WAY more options for brake pads with the 91 stuff. 92-95 EX will also work.
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#21
cbstdscott

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QUOTE (rpr @ Jul 21 2006, 07:55 AM)
If you change backing plates, the aluminum drums from an Insight will fit as well.

Do we know this to be a fact? It has been rumored but I have not seen anyone who actually did this.

QUOTE (rpr @ Jul 21 2006, 07:55 AM)
And for the front, I prefer the 91 Civic/CRX SI calipers, they have the same size piston as the 84-87 (Integra is a bit larger, thus has longer pedal travel) but there are WAY more options for brake pads with the 91 stuff. 92-95 EX will also work.


You really do not need a lot of brake pad options... either you go with OEM-type pads (which includes AEM, Axxion, Metal Master and a bunch of other stuff that gets sold over the parts counter) which is fine for street driving or you go with a specialty company like EBS, Hawk or Porterfield.

The difference between OEM pads, including the "performance" stuff sold in shops and REAL racing friciton materiel is like the difference between night and day. Basically the track stuff does not work well on the streets and the street stuff does not work well on the track.

The Portertfield 4R-S pads and shoes are pretty good track materiel (not the very best, but your 1st Gen CRX is not running 24 hour enduros) that can be used on the street (if you don't mind some noise and a lot of dust).

If you can find friction materiel for bizarre old cars from the 40's and 50's (which you can), finding 1st Gen Integra pads are not going a be a big deal.

Scott
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#22
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Since you do the track days in addition to Solos, I would suggest not replacing the booster. You don't need it wink.gif .

I had mine go bad during a race weekend about 15 years ago. At that point I wondered if I really needed it so I just gutted it and plugged the vacuum line (running in SSB, had to be ["look"] stock). I noticed a much better pedal feel than it had before. However, I also noticed there are two ¼” thick rubber ‘biscuits’ in these brake boosters that, if replaced with something solid, like aluminum, will give you an even better (firmer) brake pedal.

The pedal effort difference was not noticeable at all from my perspective.

Just another option cool.gif .

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#23
rpr

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QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Jul 21 2006, 11:07 AM)
Do we know this to be a fact? It has been rumored but I have not seen anyone who actually did this.


I have physically taken an Insight drum and put in on my 3G, it fits, but it doesn't go on all the way, it seems to stop about 1/8" or so. If the backing plate will fix this, then I would say that it will work. But, I haven't done it.

QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Jul 21 2006, 11:07 AM)
You really do not need a lot of brake pad options... either you go with OEM-type pads (which includes AEM, Axxion, Metal Master and a bunch of other stuff that gets sold over the parts counter) which is fine for street driving or you go with a specialty company like EBS, Hawk or Porterfield.



Well, maybe in California you can get a lot of different pads, not so much everywhere else. It's just nice to have more (better) options.

Tom
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#24
cbstdscott

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QUOTE (rpr @ Jul 23 2006, 07:00 AM)
Well, maybe in California you can get a lot of different pads, not so much everywhere else. It's just nice to have more (better) options.
Tom


No disrespect Tom (Which is a weird thing to say because you are disrespecting someone when you say "No disrespect." But I don't mean it that way.), but does the Internet and Mail Order stop at the Canadian border?

Scott
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#25
DEIVIONCRX

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where are you at in oklahoma
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#26
dan86si

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I'm in Tulsa.

I replaced the MC with a new unit on Saturday, it seems to have solved the problem. I haven't driven it much, but the pedal seems to have a little more free play than I would like and the parking brake takes more pull to engage. I think I need to adjust the drums so the initial pedal travel isn't expended taking up slack there.

I think I might have found a source for the HF backing plates, and I'm hoping to get some Integra calipers and discs soon. Should I get the brackets from salvage?

Edited by dan86si, 24 July 2006 - 11:11 AM.


#27
Jack ffr1846

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Dan,

If you decide to do the teg swap, feel free to shoot me a PM. I have an 87 CRX racecar and converted it completely to 89 teg brake parts. I have another 89 teg that I'm starting to strip and it looks like it's had recent brake work (pads and lines) and those will be up for grabs.

For a street car I would not recommend rear disks for performance as they are a lot of work to swap. They also move your rear wheels outward a noticable amount. The ebrake is a pain to get hooked up and you'll need to do some custom brake adapters to make your rear disks work. Without changing the rear disks, just the front with tegs, you can stay with the CRX prop valve and master. If you swap to rear disks, you will want the added fluid movement of the larger teg master, which needs some work to make it fit into the booster and then a prop valve from a teg since drums need far more pressure than disks.

Besides the prop valve, my parts teg has everything else on it and will be available cheap.

By the way.....the advantage of the teg front calipers is the larger size of the brake pads. The rotors are barely any larger, but the pads are much larger, so spot temperatures are lower. On the track you'd notice this in less fluid boiling.

jack

#28
strudel

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QUOTE
The ebrake is a pain to get hooked up and you'll need to do some custom brake adapters to make your rear disks work.


Jack ffr1846,

Could you please elaborate on what you mean by custom brake adapters. I am aware there is a bit of widening in track. JS

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#29
stevo911_

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i know this is an old thread, just looking up some stuff and am wondering the same thing as strudel

#30
lxndr

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QUOTE (stevo911_ @ Jun 2 2007, 06:22 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
i know this is an old thread, just looking up some stuff and am wondering the same thing as strudel

They pretty much bolt right on, there is no need for any type of custom adapter.