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Replacing Float Pin?


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#1
L4ugh1ngM4n

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    • Location:United States, South Dakota
    • Drives: 1987 Honda Civic HB Dx, 1986 Toyota Landcrusier, 1990 Honda Prelude Si RIP

I am rebuilding the old carb and would like to replace my float needle and the o-ring under the float level adjustment screw.

Question: How do I remove the float needle and get at that o-ring?

Can I twist it out from the top adjustment screw? This seems to stop after just a few turns and I don't want to break anything...

Other option, from the bottom, but I would have to remove the float, I am stuck here as well! The small axle that that the float is attached to the carb by doesn't want to budge. 

Which way does it come out? I see one end of the axle that is sticking out and the other is flush, I'm not even sure which end to apply pressure.

Has anyone replaced their float and pin and o-ring etc.?

Thanks Guys!
 


Edited by L4ugh1ngM4n, 27 February 2013 - 02:32 AM.


#2
L4ugh1ngM4n

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    • Location:United States, South Dakota
    • Drives: 1987 Honda Civic HB Dx, 1986 Toyota Landcrusier, 1990 Honda Prelude Si RIP

Edit:

I got it! The pin holding the float on pounded through, I think it can go either way, I hammered on a skinny allen wrench placed on the end of the pin.

After removing the float I "Tightened" the float adjustment screw down through the carb and out the bottom, Bingo!

I saw in the carb tutorial at the top of the carb forum page that you wern't supposed to mess with thie "painted" screw on the carb as your car wouldnt run right afterwards. This is called the float adjustment screw and I'm pretty sure this is just caused by the damaging of the brittle old o-ring inside when you turn the screw, causing all sorts of problems. you can pull the whole assembly out as described above and replace the o-rings! Easy! (after you get the stupid float off! haha)

 


Edited by L4ugh1ngM4n, 27 February 2013 - 03:47 AM.


#3
RandallL

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    • Drives: 1987 civic hatchback d15a2

Your talking about the gold flush screw on the very top of the carb? What were your problems to lead you to the conclusion that oring was bad. I just got my d15a2 rebuilt and had it running nicely. That screw had fuel coming out of the threads to i tightened it, while running, my engine started flooding and before I could get it backed out to the original position it died. I havent been able to get it to fire since then it has just been flooding the cylinders. I pulled the top of the carb and my float and needle opperated perfectly. But I cant get my engine to stop flooding and that is the only adjustment I touched. Any suggestions? 

That being said, my chilton tells me my fuel pump should only distribute 5.7 ounces/60 sec. Min is closer to 15oz/60 sec. could this be part of my issue? Being a mechanical pump I figured the diaphram could only pump so much fuel and this would be ok and would be dealt with by the carb. I appreciate any help