45 replies to this topic

[chedda_j]

So ya i just had to hook up the power wire, luckily I was able to hook it up to a wire thats part of the alternator harness. I believe it was the carb selenoid wire that wasnt being used any more. It starts up and idles at 1100 rpms untill warm, then down to 750ish, which im fine with.

So i took the car out for a drive and it felt PRETTY good, but im not going to lie, it felt like it could have used a little more fuel, I wish i had a wideband sensor. Im going to order the prefered weber setup thats in the tutorial and throw that it in and hopefully it gives me the power im looking for. Obviously its not going to be a huge upgrade but it feels like its less power than stock, so obviously i have jetting issue.

Does anyone know if the weber kit was specific to the 1.3 and 1.5. The kit was orderd for the 1.3, i dont know if he did any jetting work on it so im not sure if its running lean or what. The car did seem to be running hot, so that would mean lean.

[monkeey]

Does anyone know if the weber kit was specific to the 1.3 and 1.5. The kit was orderd for the 1.3, i dont know if he did any jetting work on it so im not sure if its running lean or what. The car did seem to be running hot, so that would mean lean.

the k726 kit from redline: CIVIC 84-87 1.3 & 1.5 12-valve w/ CVCC

Redline Kits

[chedda_j]

How to set the electric choke:

Remove your air cleaner

Tie into your electrical system, finding a power that is only on when the ignition is fully on. I found one in the same harness for the alternator, which happens to be the CARB SELENOID now not used. I used heat shrink to make it look good. You will need a male spade connector for the choke wire.

Turn ignition on for about 5 minutes to warm up the choke fully.

Loosen the three screws on the choke retaining plate.

While the ignition is still on, turn the choke housing untill the choke starts to close, then back it off untill it is fully open. Note: you have to pull open the throttle by hand in order to open the choke when setting.

Turn the car off, let it sit for about 15 minutes to cool down the choke. Before starting, set your mixture screw and throttle screw as seen above.

Press the throttle to the floor once, start the car. It should start right up and idle at 1800-2200 rpms. The longer you leave the ignition on the longer it will heat the coil and the lower the rpms will be when you start the car. Now let the car idle at this rpm for a while, to drop the rpm you can tap the gas pedal. It will open the choke up to where it warmed up to. After a minute or two you can tap the gas again and it will drop to your idle speed. Make sure the car is at 1/4 temp and check the idle speed, it should be about 750-850. If its too high, turn the throttle screw back on the side of the carb until you get to the desired speed.

Thats pretty much it, you can back the choke off a bit if you want the car not to idle at such a high rpms when cold, it takes very fine adjustments to get it right where you want.

Oh and make sure to put your filter back on.


I took the car out for a test run and everything went really well. The car absolutely sounds amazing with the weber, i thought it would have been all carb noise but the exhaust noise is entirely different now too. The weber accompanied by the ported intake manifold and working cvcc ports made the car sound so damn good. I took a dry pavement run up in the hills, it seems to reach 100 km pretty fast, faster than before anyways, got about 75 mph in a quarter, does that sound right?

[zakats]

Could have sworn I posted this already but here goes the short version: Have you plugged the CVCC ports at the head/intake manifold yet? if not, you will leak some serious vacuum from them.

[chedda_j]

Could have sworn I posted this already but here goes the short version: Have you plugged the CVCC ports at the head/intake manifold yet? if not, you will leak some serious vacuum from them.

I really dont understand how i would leak vaccum lol. Could you please tell me? The car idles at 550 rpms if i want it to, so no vaccum leak haha. What im trying to figure out is why you would think it would. Its a USDM intake/USDM head, and a weber set up for the corresponding setup.

[kaymo]

why would you plug cvcc? he is using it!

[chedda_j]

why would you plug cvcc? he is using it!

Ya why would i want to eliminate any one of the performance gains? haha

[zakats]

Sinic and I put a very similar setup together about a year ago (si head, usdm dx IM and weber), we had a hell of a time getting it to run right until he sealed the CVCC port. The idea I thought I'd submitted already consisted of drilling holes through each of the primary runners into the CVCC runners so the primaries can access the extra flow of the CVCC runners close to the head. After doing this, you can plug the ends of the CVCC runners to eliminate any possible leakage.

[chedda_j]

Sinic and I put a very similar setup together about a year ago (si head, usdm dx IM and weber), we had a hell of a time getting it to run right until he sealed the CVCC port. The idea I thought I'd submitted already consisted of drilling holes through each of the primary runners into the CVCC runners so the primaries can access the extra flow of the CVCC runners close to the head. After doing this, you can plug the ends of the CVCC runners to eliminate any possible leakage.

This is where you went wrong, i have a USDM DX head with the proper CVCC runners. The si head doesnt have CVCC, so in return, would not work well with the usdm carbed intake. The best thing you could have done was to use the CDN intake manifold with the proper adapter, the runners are large on the CDN manifold and do not have CVCC, and it mounts to the SI head without a hitch. The problem i had was that i for some reason have a CVCC head on my CDN car, obviously someone swapped it on. They blocked the CVCC ports with the cdn intake manifold, making them un-operational. When i discovered this, I had a USDM intake manifold sent to me. I then ported and polished the runners and cvcc ports in order to use the CVCC runners and ports to the maximum ability. Although the ports are small, they will flow a some mixture. They are a total of probably 3/8 in diameter. The other runners are probably about 1 1/4" estimated.

1 1/4" tube @ 2psi vaccum will flow 157 cubic feet per minute
3/8" tube @ 2psi vaccum will flow 14 cubic feet per minute

In relation, the cvcc valve and port can add a maximum of +11% if the duration and lift is the same as the other valve

Wether or not its a real performance gain, i would like to think that when using the CVCC Port and valve as a normal valve, that it actually adds flow and hp.

[EuphoricBlue]

got about 75 mph in a quarter, does that sound right?

No, it does not. Not to me anyway. Both my "stock" CDM 1.5s got me about 81-83 mph in the quarter. Granted, this wasn't too far off sea level. I don't know what it would run at higher altitude.

[kaymo]

Chedda it would be a performance gain, because to have the cvcc head and not have it working would be poorer performance. I always wondered if a turbo'd cvcc would would work better due to extra mixture.

[zakats]

Apparently I've missed that bit of info a few times now, guess I've just been phoning it in...

Why not swap to a CDM head? I guess if you don't plan to do much with this engine (since you want to B swap) that makes sense, but it is well understood that the CVCC head doesn't have a lot of accessable potential for bigger numbers down the road.

[kaymo]

remember the EW5 is the fuel injected single cam WITH cvcc, and it makes more power.... so why cant it make bigger power numbers?

[zakats]

I took that into consideration and there have been some built CVCC engines but they don't tune very well for bigger numbers. I don't recall what the exact reasoning was against CVCC for power was anymore but I know that there would be a lot more racers running CVCC if it were good for power. It is true that there was a factory kit for the EW5 made in the ol days by HKS and I think mugen, but IIRC, you couldn't get a whole lot of power out of them as a result of CVCC.

I'd do the research and show citations but I don't think it matters enough to anyone to do so.

[kaymo]

the real question would be, what did they do to tune the cvcc to match the turbo? one would think if you upgraded all 5 injectors, it would work pretty damn well. possibly hard to tune indeed, but if you got it right...


some people use a volvo cold start injector to spray extra fuel in before the TB for their turbo setups. i was told by the guy i got my mx6 from that this was his next step in getting enough fuel to the 13 psi turbo setup it was running...