Ok, I've got my carb all sorts of taken apart now, and I've hit a small snag. In the middle section of the carb, how the hell do you get the venturis out? There are two flathead screws with holes in them (set screws?) near them, I have one of them out, I'm trying to get the other out without breaking it (edit - it's a little stripped, I'm taking WD-40 to it for a few minutes, I hope I didn't just ruin my carb. It's gonna be tough to get that one out, if not impossible.) but the first one doesn't seem to loosen the venturi at all. The instruction say "carefully remove set screws in side of bowl" but there's nothing screw-wise (other than the power valve in the float bowl, and no other screws near the venturis.
Wait, there are two...spots that look like they have a goop of quicksteel or something over them, right where the venturis end on the outside of the carb body. They're on the side the choke controls were on. I think that's it. They're not located anywhere in the diagram on my instructions, that was a bit frustrating. Ok, it's not hard enough to be quicksteel, I think it's just RTV that's stiffened up over time. This stuff on a stock carb, or did somebody put this on after the fact?
Here's the best picture I could get of one of the venturi setscrews, painted in orange in this pic:
The other one is just to the left behind the choke opener. You'll need to remove the whole assembly to get to it.
Oh, and I want to ask DarkHand about his zip-tie mod: Did they ever really stick after they opened up all the way? When my secondary is WOT, it holds BOTH throttle plates wide open. I'm probably going to take the springs off and completely disassemble the bottom part of the carb, clean and lubricate those rods and everything really well, and hope that prevents them from locking like that, but it almost seems like the pins and curves of the metal down there are MADE to lock them together after they hit a certain point...
The zip tie mod actually remedies the sticking throttle problem; it's the older devac method of connecting the secondary diaphragm to venturi vacuum that has the potential of sticking the carb at full throttle. If you still have a carb with the secondary diaphragm connected, try applying vacuum to the secondary and touching the throttle; the throttle will pop right to full and stay there as long as vacuum is applied. If that happened while the car was running, it would be bad.
It also goes to show that the secondary isn't opening with the older devac setup... if it did, throttles would be sticking open left and right!
EDIT (again): Oh, and what the hell is that little, tiny dime-sized carb barrel? It goes all the way through and has its own throttle plate and little fuel jet but no actual venturi assembly or choke plate. What the hell?
That's what feeds the auxiliary chamber of the CVCC system.
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Next step though is to decrease the current to the choke spring, to cause it to open more slowly. It's a matter of finding the right resistor.
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