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Help My Wagovan!


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#1
*Wagovan*

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I have a lot of questions. I have an 2wd 87 Wagovan and I can't seem to find the engine code anywhere. I think it's a ew1 because of the nest of vac. lines. Also it has 12 valves but looks like it has 16 valves? 2 intake valves and looks like 2 exhaust valves but one is small. I have never seen this before, so try not to make me feel to stupid. I am new to carbs and Hondas. I am used to working on FI cars. The timing belt broke and I want to do a head swap from a CRX Si because I can get it really cheap if it's even possible. Money is tight right now so can I use the intake and exhaust manifold off the engine I have if I could do the swap? Sorry for so many questions. Please help me out.

#2
badpenny

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Ok, if the timing belt broke then a head swap is what you are needing to do anyways. The "small" valves you see are teh aux exhaust valves, they recirculate the exhaust to be reburned they don't actually open into the combustion chamber. YOu have a 12 valve. What you need to look for to identify the engine code is a small 1" by 3" flat spot located just under and to the left of the black metal box on the intake manifold, To be more exact, it is immediatley behind the distributor housing, where the transmission mounts to the block. THe stamp for the engine code is located there. You should have another small strip located on the radiator support on the passengers side just above the passengers headlamp.
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#3
kedwards

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QUOTE (badpenny @ Aug 1 2006, 09:03 AM)
Ok, if the timing belt broke then a head swap is what you are needing to do anyways.  The "small" valves you see are teh aux exhaust valves, they recirculate the exhaust to be reburned they don't actually open into the combustion chamber.  YOu have a 12 valve.  What you need to look for to identify the engine code is a small 1" by 3" flat spot located just under and to the left of the black metal box on the intake manifold, To be more exact, it is immediatley behind the distributor housing, where the transmission mounts to the block.  THe stamp for the engine code is located there.  You should have another small strip located on the radiator support on the passengers side just above the passengers headlamp.


Actually, the 4 small valves are extra intake valves. They are CVCC and provide a stratified charge (higher level fuel mixture). The spark plug ignites the stratified charge, which then can ignite the less rich mixture in the main combustion chamber.

Keith

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1.75 1st gen. CRXs
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#4
therealtime

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If you just swap an Si head you will have lower compression from what I understand. If you broke a timing belt, the valves may have hit the pistons and damaged them as well so maybe you could swap in Si pistons too and then you would pretty much have an Si motor without fuel injection.

I took the rockers out so that the CVCC valves don't open in my car and I installed a weber 32/36 and i still get 27-30 miles a gallon in my full weight 4wd.

my $.02

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#5
*Wagovan*

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Okay, I found the engine code. Thanks badpenny. On the subject of the Si head, would it not be a good idea to do right now? I can't really afford to do the pistons right now nor can I afford the down time. I can get an Si head for $40 right now but will it not be worth it due to lower compression? The car has absolutely no power and the last thing I need is lower compression. That's another question I have. Before the timing belt snapped the car pulled okay in first but falls flat on its face in second and pulled okay in third. Any thoughts? So what do you guys think about the Si head? Should I just get a normal 1.5 head and save up for the head and pistons to do at the same time? Thank you guys for helping a neewb out. Again sorry for so many questions I'm just trying to learn everything I can about my beloved Wagovan.

#6
badpenny

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What they mean is it would be lower compression than an Si engine. Higher than a dx, but not much. YOu will need to check the pistons to see if the valves made contact with the piston surface. If they did, now would be the time to change them. If they did not, you will be ok. And then you could do it later.
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#7
*Wagovan*

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Oh, okay. Is there anything else I should know about the swap? Do I need to swap cams from my head to the Si head because of the mechanical fuel pump? Thanks again.

#8
badpenny

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QUOTE (*Wagovan* @ Aug 1 2006, 04:34 PM)
Oh, okay. Is there anything else I should know about the swap? Do I need to swap cams from my head to the Si head because of the mechanical fuel pump? Thanks again.

to keep from having to have to install an electric fuel pump, yes.

YOur list to run a "moddified si head"

Your dx distributor, manual fuelpump with housing, cam. si head without the cam.

that should be about it. I am sure othrs will chime in if I forgot something.
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#9
*Wagovan*

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Awesome. If I choose not to run the mechanical fuel pump and switch to an electric, I am assuming I need a fpr to do that? How many psi will it require? I might just stick with the mechanical pump if it's to big of a hassle. Thanks again badpenny.

#10
badpenny

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QUOTE (*Wagovan* @ Aug 1 2006, 05:26 PM)
Awesome. If I choose not to run the mechanical fuel pump and switch to an electric, I am assuming I need a fpr to do that? How many psi  will it require? I might just stick with the mechanical pump if it's to big of a hassle. Thanks again badpenny.

In that case you need or might as well use the whole si head, an electric FP with regulator, if you are running a dx carb and intake you will want 3-5 psi. THere are plenty writeups on this.
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#11
*Wagovan*

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QUOTE (badpenny @ Aug 1 2006, 04:41 PM)
In that case you need or might as well use the whole si head, an electric FP with regulator, if you are running a dx carb and intake you will want 3-5 psi.  THere are plenty writeups on this.

I think I might do that instead of swapping cams. Sounds a little easier. lol Thanks badpenny. YOU THE MAN!!!!!!!