54 replies to this topic

[Special-K]

when you say bone stock, does that rule out type r pistons? it will be close, you would have to do a total top end package, plus rev to the 9500 range, so it would work, but would it last 100k miles is another question. If you can swing it, the Integra Type R motor would be a better option, its the same as a B16 as far as size and weight go, shorter block than a GSR, and a better head/intake design too, 200hp no sweat

[87sivtec]

200 hp at the wheels in a B16? Very difficult without boost. Very very very expensive too. Impossible with a stock bottom end.
I have the B16a2 in my car but am running a PR3 obd0 ecu. It works well.
As far as Hondata is concerned, OBD1 is the way to go and I have a friend with one for sale. It is a 3B model and he is asking $800 Canadian obo for it. It includes
hondata, ecu , switches and shift light, and clutch pedel switch, datalogging cd and misc. parts.
He runs a B18C1 turbo in a 89 hatch right now with it and just last saturday pulled a 12.38 quarter mile. So it works well. He has just chosen to go to the AEM EMS system instead.

The B18, B16 are all basically the same. The B18C1 would be slightly heavier due to the manifold design, but they are all about 80 lbs heavier than stock.
Shift linkage can be made by yourself. Just cut and lengthen some first gen integra linkage by 3/4 of an inch approx.
The harness is easy enough to modify yours and make it work.
Don't pay HASports prices for the harness. Too much money IMHO.

Make sure you have some reserve money too. There are a ton of little things that come up that you didn't expect.
I have a lot of resources that i have been planning on putting online so people can use and find it in one spot. I do have a few pics up of it in my gallery listed under my name. I will add to that too.

There seems to be a lot of good advice on this site. I wish I would have found it a year and a half ago.

Lyle

[UltimX]

12? whats your friend running under the hood? stock? the b16b in the first gen should be faster. This is just what i think tho. if its stock.

[87sivtec]

B16b is 'only' 185 hp. Great for a stock engine, but not anywhere near a 12 second car. My friend has a JDM GSR with a thicker head gasket to lower the compression. A Greddy turbo with a air/water intercooler, hondata, traction bar system and slicks. He is only running 11 psi.

A B20vtec or B18C5 would just about be a sure 12.

Even me with a JDM B16a2 with the bolt ons am hitting 99 mph in the quarter. Should be a mid 13 with that, but i need to learn to drive.

[UltimX]

LS vtec only hittin 12s in the QT? Is that first gen or second gen crx? and what would the lsvtec be pushin out? i forgot hp and torque numbers...

[87sivtec]

Not an LS/vtec. It is a GSR engine with a thicker headgasket.
12.38 is nothing to sneeze at. He hasn't gone above 11 psi of boost either, because he is still running the stock Honda map sensor. He has a 3 bar GM sensor to go in. He is still running the stock bottom and top end too.

It is in a 89 hatch with full cage. The car weighs about 2100 lbs i believe, or just under that.
I have heard that a stock LS/vtec should put out about 170-180 hp at the crank.
It all depends on how you build it.
We are going out to the track tonight and hopefully he can get a 12.2. We'll see.
The Hondata is coming out soon though for the AEM to go in. Then it's dyno time.

[NJMUGENCRX]

i wouldve recommended a PR3 hondata setup. just add some wires to your existing harness it would save alot of hassle. but if they suggested the obd 1 swap maybe that would be the move. check thier site for the dealer nearest to you and see what they think. also if you were to do an obd 1 swap id say go all out and get the AEM. youll be alot happier. i know i will.

hey 87sivtec i looked at your gallery. thats a clean setup! what kind of intake is that?
-Roger

Edited by NJMUGENCRX, 23 May 2003 - 06:15 PM.

[UltimX]

you said b20vtec which is comparable to an lsvtec. Then you said about 12s... thats why i said lsvtec. I read what you had in the previous post. And i was just wondering if it was in a first gen crx or second that you can produce 12s with lsvtec. BTW, how did you get your engine bay so clean?

[87sivtec]

Sorry, I got myself talking in circles.
A suggestion for hitting 200 whp would be a B20/vtec or B18C5.

My friend has the GSR engine in an 89 hatch pulling low 12's.

Two topics sorta.... hopefully its somewhat clearer now.

As far as the engine bay in my car goes, i cleaned it with degreaser when the engine was out. My parents used to own a bakery and it's the stuff we used to clean the racks with. It works amazing and i will find out what it is.

The intake is a Vibrant Power intake for a 88-91 si. The filter is mildly crushed on the side at the fender to fit the narrower car.

Since the photos, I have added a VAFC (which isn't in the engine bay anyways) and a fuel pressure guage and tires.
Not much really, due to limited funds at the moment.

Lyle

[steve0z]

i was wondering why you guys are talkin about the b16a2...i prefer the a1 cause it is an easier and cheaper swap for only 10 hp more...and for all those other setups...(ls/vtec b18 and CrVtec)...those motors would be pumpin to much power...meaning you wont be able to get the full potential power that you normally should cause of "power to weight ratio" all u would be hearin is the tires spinning....this is just my opininon...but i just wanted to let yall know

[Disco Stu]

I'm hoping that a CRVtec isn't too much power that it's so unusable... that's what I've been (trying to be) building up for the last few years or so. B20 block, B17 crank & custom crower sized rods for a 1.75 r/s ratio, crower cams & valve train, 85mm high comp pistons, Golden Eagle resleeving and a Y1 tranny with a Quaife LSD, controlled by a Zdyne Gold ('cause I didn't know about Ghettodyne at the time), Fastbrakes 4wheel disc brakes to stop and hopefully I can find some 23mm bars to compliment the Illuminas. Cost?

Let's just say I can't afford body parts to start failing on me

[NJMUGENCRX]

i was wondering why you guys are talkin about the b16a2...i prefer the a1 cause it is an easier and cheaper swap for only 10 hp more...and for all those other setups...(ls/vtec b18 and CrVtec)...those motors would be pumpin to much power...meaning you wont be able to get the full potential power that you normally should cause of "power to weight ratio"  all u would be hearin is the tires spinning....this is just my opininon...but i just wanted to let yall know

and for all those other setups...(ls/vtec b18 and CrVtec)...those motors would be pumpin to much power...

too much power?? ahhh thats a good one....

hey disco stu we should really meet up once both our cars are done. did you buy the zdyne yet i may have something better for you.
-Roger

[Disco Stu]

I got in on the Zdyne awhile ago it seems, some folks I know were doing a group buy with 4 or 5 other people and got it for about $700. Had I known that it was going to take so long to get my car working and everything, I would have probably held out for a Ghettodyne and just gone that route. Hondata looks like a solid piece of equipment, but expensive and an extra pain to go OBD1.

[ol'skoolrex_PH]

200 hp at the wheels in a B16?  Very difficult without boost.  Very very very expensive too.  Impossible with a stock bottom end.

um... I asume you don't know what you're talking about

B16A1 OBD1
Toda Racing individual throttle bodies
Toda Racing Stage 2 cams + cam gears
DHR head (-cams)
DC Sports header
11.2:1 compression ratio

stock bottom end
and I'm pumping 233 HP to the wheels (which I'm sure is less than actual HP because I can't even find traction on the dyno)

I'm not entering the NASA honda challange.. so next month when I get my paycheck a Toda stoker kit is going in.

and my car is now running high 11s cause I suck at driving

[1gTeg90]

200 hp at the wheels in a B16?  Very difficult without boost.  Very very very expensive too.  Impossible with a stock bottom end.

um... I asume you don't know what you're talking about

B16A1 OBD1
Toda Racing individual throttle bodies
Toda Racing Stage 2 cams + cam gears
DHR head (-cams)
DC Sports header
11.2:1 compression ratio

stock bottom end
and I'm pumping 233 HP to the wheels (which I'm sure is less than actual HP because I can't even find traction on the dyno)

I'm not entering the NASA honda challange.. so next month when I get my paycheck a Toda stoker kit is going in.

and my car is now running high 11s cause I suck at driving

233 to the wheels.... me likey.

I know to live to the end of a 30 minute or so race, and to do that week in and week out for multiple race seasons without a rebuild, tuning would need to be a little on the conservative side. But based on what you have I don't see why 210-220 @ da wheelz couldn't be done reliably.

What kind of engine management are you running?

[/evil grin on]-Floyd, plotting his malicious takeover of the ECHC H1 class even as we speak.... [evil grin off]