Doing this on behalf of the Tein shock buyers.
We need to know the range of camber you racers are using.
Realize this dependes on rim/tire, ride height, roll center, springs etc. etc
My planned setup will be 13X7 or 8" wheels, race/DOT race tires, 29mm T-Bars, #600+ rear springs, NASCAR style sway bars (haven't picked the size and arm lenghts yet)
I'm guessing my Hatche's starting point will be 1/2 deg neg front, 0 deg rear
What we're trying to do is figure out if Tein's designed camber plates will have enough adjustment
Thanks in advance,
2
What's Your Camber Settings
Started by Buford, Dec 01 2006 04:01 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 01 December 2006 - 04:01 PM
#2
Posted 01 December 2006 - 06:24 PM
If your talking about using the Goodyear cantelever slicks then they really dont like much camber at all in a Road race app.
I have camber plates and they are all the way out and the inside of the tire still gets hotter that the outside.
Doodson
I have camber plates and they are all the way out and the inside of the tire still gets hotter that the outside.
Doodson
#3
Posted 01 December 2006 - 07:35 PM
To add to Chris's response...
On slicks, I run -0.5 to -0.75 degree depending on the track. They really don't like a lot of camber. This was with 29mm T-bars with a stock front sway bar, 1000# rear springs with a 3/4" rear bar.
When I ran Hoosier DOT street Radials, I ran as much as -2.5 degrees and could have used more. This was with 24mm T-bars, no front sway bar, 400# rear springs, and the same rear bar.
You really need a pyrometer to properly dial in your camber.
On slicks, I run -0.5 to -0.75 degree depending on the track. They really don't like a lot of camber. This was with 29mm T-bars with a stock front sway bar, 1000# rear springs with a 3/4" rear bar.
When I ran Hoosier DOT street Radials, I ran as much as -2.5 degrees and could have used more. This was with 24mm T-bars, no front sway bar, 400# rear springs, and the same rear bar.
You really need a pyrometer to properly dial in your camber.
2011 SCCA H-Production National Champion
#4
Posted 02 December 2006 - 07:09 PM
Thanks guys,
OK Tein buyers,
You'll need as much as 2 -3 deg neg camber. You can get some of that with the 1g teg arms.
I ran cantelevered Goodyears on my Zink Z10 FF years ago,
Stop still have all my set up sheets race by race.
Will look at them now....
Damn.all I have is the check lists with the Tire pressures.
Now I remenber I gave all of the set up sheets away when I sold the car.....
Sold it to Larry Conners and Chip Mead. Larry now drives vintage in 2 ex Schumacher Benneton F1s.
Ok back to business,
We'll nee 2 deg neg with stock lower arms.
Thanks again
OK Tein buyers,
You'll need as much as 2 -3 deg neg camber. You can get some of that with the 1g teg arms.
I ran cantelevered Goodyears on my Zink Z10 FF years ago,
Stop still have all my set up sheets race by race.
Will look at them now....
Damn.all I have is the check lists with the Tire pressures.
Now I remenber I gave all of the set up sheets away when I sold the car.....
Sold it to Larry Conners and Chip Mead. Larry now drives vintage in 2 ex Schumacher Benneton F1s.
Ok back to business,
We'll nee 2 deg neg with stock lower arms.
Thanks again
Buford Out
#5
Posted 02 December 2006 - 07:14 PM
#6
Posted 02 December 2006 - 11:28 PM
just like i posted in this post :
http://www.redpepper...ndpost&p=310411
maybe someone can fabricate this kind of heimjoint bracket for us.. dont think that it will be as expensive as camber plates ill ask a friend of mine tomorrow if he can make a few pairs for me!
and does someone have the measurements of the teg lower arms ? so that i can try to measure the diffrence in length between the teg lower arms and the CRX lower arms tomorrow ?
Greetings Erwin.
http://www.redpepper...ndpost&p=310411
maybe someone can fabricate this kind of heimjoint bracket for us.. dont think that it will be as expensive as camber plates ill ask a friend of mine tomorrow if he can make a few pairs for me!
and does someone have the measurements of the teg lower arms ? so that i can try to measure the diffrence in length between the teg lower arms and the CRX lower arms tomorrow ?
Greetings Erwin.
1. EDM 1986 Honda CRX AS - B16A1 engine - OBD1 - Turbo - Stitch welded chassis.
2. EDM 2001 Lexus IS300 3.0 RWD - Daily Drive
#7
Posted 03 December 2006 - 08:21 AM
QUOTE (toxicshit @ Dec 2 2006, 11:28 PM)
and does someone have the measurements of the teg lower arms ? so that i can try to measure the diffrence in length between the teg lower arms and the CRX lower arms tomorrow ?
Greetings Erwin.
Greetings Erwin.
Irwin, I don't have the exact measurements and didn't write it down when I measured mine a few years ago. I do remember them being very close to 0.25" more or less, or 6-7mm, longer than the Civic/CRX arm. I think I still have an old one with a worn out ball joint in the garage somewhere. If I get a chance to, I'll see what kind of measurements I can get off of it.
That one you show with the Heim joint mount doesn't look very strong to me. JMHO of course , especially if it's made out of aluminum (aluminium for those of you across the pond ).
Jay
If you love the Elise, drive a Se7en - Caterham or whatever...
It has even less content than the Elise, is less graceful looking
...and changes direction like a ping pong ball whacked by Thor.
#8
Posted 03 December 2006 - 11:20 AM
QUOTE (jsgprod @ Dec 3 2006, 08:21 AM)
Irwin, I don't have the exact measurements and didn't write it down when I measured mine a few years ago. I do remember them being very close to 0.25" more or less, or 6-7mm, longer than the Civic/CRX arm. I think I still have an old one with a worn out ball joint in the garage somewhere. If I get a chance to, I'll see what kind of measurements I can get off of it.
That one you show with the Heim joint mount doesn't look very strong to me. JMHO of course , especially if it's made out of aluminum (aluminium for those of you across the pond ).
Jay
That one you show with the Heim joint mount doesn't look very strong to me. JMHO of course , especially if it's made out of aluminum (aluminium for those of you across the pond ).
Jay
jay, i know,i would use a much thicker heimjoint and a Steel bracket, have a few friends that are machine engineers ( they build custom machines to fabricate all kinds of stuff ) they make this kind of parts and stuff all the time for custom pnumatics machines etc, so im shure i can make a part that is more reliable and sollid than the one in the picture. ill start by calculating the stenght of the heim joint and the thikness well need.
The picture is from a 3th gen trailing arm that i found somewhere on the internet, so that was where the idea started. ive allready shown it to them and they also told me that the one in the picturen probably would not stand the abuse.
It would be nice if you could send me the measurements of the arm's that way i can make a bracket that will support something like -3 /+3 degree camber setting and ill play around with the caster mounting point of the heim joint so we can also play a little with that.
Greetings Erwin.
1. EDM 1986 Honda CRX AS - B16A1 engine - OBD1 - Turbo - Stitch welded chassis.
2. EDM 2001 Lexus IS300 3.0 RWD - Daily Drive