tje199

Header make sure it's a carbed header since the FI are different and you'd need a different oil pan

My understanding was Si header bolts up but needs the Si pan...Si being fuel injected, right? Changing pan isn't an issue if I can find one.

Thanks for the advice, although not sure just how much will be usable for me, as the car only has to turn left, and in terms of engine mods were are somewhat limited. My ideal build would be higher compression on a single carb with plus sized valves, but unfortunately my budget for this year won't cover that. I'm looking into buying a set of camber plates to let me have positive camber on the left front and negative on the right front, in addition to an Integra right front lower arm (Need to double check what year it is that give the additional 1 degree of negative camber). Don't know what my plan is for torsion bars, may need to experiment with a few different sizes. Would love to find a cam.

Anyway, a bit of progress from last weekend. Had the engine and transmission out of the car and tore down the trans, welding the front diff while it was out. Everything else looked good and I do not have plans to replace any bearings or anything at this time, although we will see how that goes next season. Unfortunately during the welding I managed to get some splatter inside the splines for the front axles, so I couldn't put it all back together. I have to clean that out and try again in a few weeks when I next have some decent time to work on the car. In the mean time, got a used carb and a set of Tokico Illuminas on the way, and I need to determine the best way to introduce a constant amount of rear steer to the car. I want the back end to always be trying to pull right (RR toes out, LR toed in).

My understanding is that the rear swaybar/axle causes this, and that by removing the sway bar I may be able to adjust the RR to provide rear steering...Have to get in and have a better look at this stuff.

In the mean time, a couple of pictures:

I'd have to look into it but I believe that the clock gets a constant 12v as well as an ignition on 12v, much like a radio would in order to save the station presets or radio clock or whatever. It almost seems as though the constant 12v has been disconnected or something. I agree with above, if the car has an aftermarket stereo, possible that the constant voltage from the clock got removed. Just as easy to pull the panel with the clock in it and verify with a  DVOM that there is voltage there. 

Of course, this is me assuming how the system works from knowledge of new model Hondas, unfortunately I don't have a the service manual with me at this time :/