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Member Since 14 Oct 2003
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:00 PM

Topics I've Started

84-85 Headlight Bucket Bracket

28 October 2021 - 10:24 PM

I am looking for a drivers side bracket that is triangle shaped.  Two bolts hold it to the side of the car under the front fender.  Then the bucket attaches to it.


like the one posted in this add.



 One is damaged and causing the bucket to not align correctly and the marker light won’t go into the slots.

pics of the damaged part on my car if it helps with where it goes on the car.  Can’t find the OEM part #.

51645165216_c63a1a2f20_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr
51646020145_097f4ba1b2_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr

Now We Have Two

12 September 2021 - 09:42 PM

Have had my 1986 since 1992 and was the second owner of that car.  Been on the lookout for a stock, clean (as clean as a 30 plus year old car can be) example of a CRX or Prelude that the Mrs and I could use to take short trips to the store or take to our church car shows.


Found a 1985 CRX that has 74,500 original miles on it.  Car was in CA where the original owner lived.  He pulled it behind his RV for most of its life and he and his wife would drive it to bingo and what not.  He drove it up until he passed at 95 years of age.  It then sat for a year before his daughters boyfriend purchased it from the family.  He intended to fix her up and drive her around but learned quickly parts are hard to find and didn’t know the ins and outs of these cars.  So lucky for me he put her up for sale.


Car is completely stock, with some nice factory options.  It has AC, not working right now but that will be fixed shortly, CRX OEM floor mats, OEM mud flaps and Honda louvers.  Only options left back then was the alloy wheels, fog lights and the reflective garnish.  Interior is dirty but amazingly in great shape.  Seats were covered with seat covers that protected them over the years.  Factory cassette deck still works, speakers are shot but it works.


Like any 30 plus year old car she has some scars to show for it.  Owner cut the front lip and bumper to attach his tow bar system.  Found a new lip and am working on a replacement bumper.  Nose panel was cracked and guy that bought it took it off to try and fix it only to find it broke even more.  New header panel has been ordered from HeelToe.  Drivers side turn signal tabs are broken and lens was cracked, was able to find a replacement.  Rear garnish with the CRX logo was damaged.  Appears someone or something hit it and dented the hatch right on the edge and damaged the body a bit behind the garnish.  I got a replacement garnish and found it wont fitting correctly as a result.  Going to get that fixed and straightened out.


Ordered new shocks since the originals, that are on the car, are a bit tired and bounce more than I like.  Spent a lot of time cleaning right now, new hatch shocks and wiper blades are all I’ve done thus far.  Here are a few pics and I will update as she progresses.  My wife has named her “Penny” as she has always said these cars look like the old Penny Racers, for those that remember those toys.  Couple of pics to get things started.


51459797487_49c9eec296_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr

51461293094_d4faa04296_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr
51461510740_19d43230a5_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr


Some goodies I found in the car.  Original Honda fuses and a set of brand new pads.

51460563706_f143ee79ca_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr

best looking garage in the neighborhood!

51461510825_f0a1e9c228_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr

Door Detent Broken.

29 August 2021 - 11:15 PM

Anyone ever repaired this, seems it has come unwelded from inside.  A search of the web finds this is an issue on early Honda’s especially the EF.  Picture below is from a post I found about repairing it.  Seems like welding in from the door jam side does and doesn’t work in all cases.  On the EF you can’t get to the back of the part, anyone know if this is the same on the AF?


Hasport Wants Your Feedback

14 August 2021 - 10:49 PM

As many of you know I have been working with Brian on the K swap for the 84-87 Civic/CRX.  We reached a point where we could go one of two directions and Brian and I thought we would get your feedback.


Option A

K20 can be installed with mounts at highest setting and require no hood modifications. Gives slightly better ground clearance than the B16 swap.  Oil pan hangs down about 3/8 inch below bottom of front of torsion bar tubes.

K24 can be installed with the mounts at highest setting also but the hood would need to have the under supports cut or removed in some areas to clear the valve cover. Same ground clearance as above.

K24 can be installed with the mounts at lower setting, gives 3/4 less ground clearance, and no hood modifications would be required.

in the photo the tube is held against the bottom of the oil pan so you can see what we are talking about.

51378102972_91392767ef_k.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr


Option B

K24 can only be installed at lowest setting and hood must have modifications to clear valve cover.

K20 can be installed at low setting and no hood modifications required.

K20 can be installed at high setting and hood must be modified to clear valve cover.  This option gives ground clearance similar to original EW motor, oil pan above bottom of front of torsion bar tubes.


please vote for your option, if you care to share why please do so.

Found Parts Gold

20 March 2021 - 11:30 PM

Found an 89 integra 2 door hatch in a junk yard a few hours from me.  Ran down today and got the entire rear axle, e brake cables and prop valve.


these things are getting more and more rare to find.