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86_CRX_AS

Member Since 09 Feb 2020
Offline Last Active Jul 24 2022 06:37 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Project Moneytaker

11 April 2020 - 04:35 PM



Great work! Car looks great! Victoria red CRX for the win.

Thanks.

I do my very best :D

 

 

At the moment here in Germany everything is a little bit caotic. Thanks to Corona19 :ph34r:

I have now rewelded the entire body. Like a rally car.

ohhb52vy.jpg

smsrtmvy.jpg

 

A little bit of mess

mpv7x8un.jpg

amkn5tw5.jpg

 

After the welding I sealed all sheet metall joints with OWATROL. I don't know if you guys can buy that. But it's a grait stuff. It's a oil which is very thin and reaches every point. When it's hard, you can sand and paint it.

vjm2u2dn.jpg

 

Then I painted all the underbody with one layer of chasis paint.

It's only one layer for rust protection. 3 layers will come on a later date.

vbs4ue4g.jpg

ihy34mhr.jpg

 


In Topic: Project Moneytaker

26 February 2020 - 04:37 PM

Your english is quite understandable. And way better than my non existent non engish skills. 

I sympathise with the different metal thickness and the different heat distortion. Just bought a tig welder as a retirement present, to myself, and will be learning to use it for this type of work. I found the mig welding difficult to control on old thin metal, so hopefully better results.

Very much appreciate your thread and work.

Ian

Thanks Ian.

 

It's not the first car I build, but the first restauration for me.

I learn every day and not all the work is perfect at the first time, but I take me the time and do my best ;-)

 

You could be right, that a WIG welder could be the better way.

Restauration pros do a lot of body work, with soldering the parts together. This should be better and avoid bending the panels.


In Topic: Project Moneytaker

25 February 2020 - 04:31 PM

This is the finished product after all the welding and grinding.

 

The welding works very well for my second time I deed it (a Civic ED3 before). The only problem was, that the repair panels from WolfSteel are double the thickness then the OEM panel. This means, that the growing because of the heating is not the same as the OEM panel and it's very difficuilt to become a smooth dentfree panel.

Between the panels i but 3 layers of weldthrough primer.

u2gxnv28.jpg

 

Know, I have a few dents which I have to remove with the hammer. But we will see...

This is the finish after putting one layer of TEROSON EP 5010 TR. This is a chemical tin replacement product, which has not the negative characteristics of the tin but all the benefits.

After hardening, it was smoothed with a body planer.

tic26igh.jpg

ahckdc2g.jpg

ulq34nri.jpg

 

Spraying one layer of roststop primer, to protect it from corrosion.

s9kgcbge.jpg

 

 

The I began to remove the underbody coat and found another rusty piece in the area of the rear axel mounting points. :(

Built a new piece and welded it in

n6knag5p.jpg

qtqbok49.jpg

 

So far so good. This was, hopefully, the welding part which I thougt I don't have to do :D .

The next stept is to remove all the underbody coat to the bare metall and paint the underbody.

 

 

And sorry for my bad english guys. But I'm only a Bavarian guy. :lol:


In Topic: Project Moneytaker

25 February 2020 - 03:04 PM

Haha :D . No problem.

 

I think everyone knows this time, when it's hard to keep up the motivation and see the small steps.

But it's all about the lifestyle and the fun which thiése cars make to drive, when it's finished. B)


In Topic: Project Moneytaker

15 February 2020 - 10:40 AM

Looking great man.. Some skilled work going on here!

Haha thanks ;-)

 

For this build, I take all the time, which is needed to build it correct.

I will drive the car a long time and have fun with it and the painting will cost a lot of money, so I want a solution that I will have no more trouble with rust.

 

It was the goal, to bring the car last year on street --> NOT

No it was the goal, to bring the car this year on street --> MAYBE ^^