8 replies to this topic

[hamada]

Hey everybody (got some really basic questions). I've been told the best first mod for my 86 HF is the front and rear disc brake replacement and new suspension. This is because I'm eventually wanting to put a D16A1 in it. So here are my questions?

What does this represent and are they the correct numbers for my stock tires and rims (Tires/rims: 165/70R13)?

Is it best to just get some 86-89 integra front and rear disc brakes and swap them or is there a better/easier/cheaper way to go?

When they tell me to upgrade my suspion what all does that intail? axles, springs... umm I really don't know all the parts of the suspension? and what car should I swap parts from for it or what aftermarket parts are best?

I'm sorry if these are some really basic questions, but haven't been able to find a good source of info to explain it in simple terms. Please give me any info or advice you have, or if there is a link with this info please let me know. Thanks guys, I'm happy to be a new addition to the forum

[dacollier1]

165/70/13: 165 mm = tread width, the aspect ratio (or ratio of sidewall height to tread width) is 70%, meaning the side wall is 70% of 165 = 115.5mm tall, and the 13 is rim diameter. Some 13" wheels will not fit over the inegra brakes...too small for the brakes.
to go to 14", use 185/60/14 to get the same rolling diameter, or 195/50/15 for 15" wheels. 15's may look better, and 14's are likley to weight less, so what is better depends on what you plan to do and what appearance you like... all up to you

On teh brakes, if you use all teg stuff, you also need the proportioning valve and master cylinder from a 1985 prelude 4 disc car (bceasue it bolts to your booster and teg one won't as easily since the bolt flange is at an angle. However, if you use the otors and caliper assemblies from a 88-91 Si/Dx, the piston diameter is the same as the stock civic, so the balance stays as designed and the proportioning valve and master don't need to be changed if you only plan to do the front brakes. Plus you have more brake pad options then a teg. The rear brakes don't really add much over the drums and the rear discs push the wheels further apart by .75" on each side.... that can cause tires to hit fenders or cause you to find fender flares.
Front brake conversion is worth while, so would stainless steel braided brake lines on all 4 wheels.


suspension upgrade can mean any or all of the following: shocks, rear springs, front torsion bars, larger front and rear way bars, polyurethane bushings...and in some cases just replacing worn out stock parts...tie rod ends, ball lower ball joints.

[rpr]

The easiest upgrade is to use 1G Teg front brakes, the rear discs can be a real PITA. Plus if you have the HF aluminum drums, well, those are much better for performance (lighter) if that's where you are headed. Have you read the FAQ?

[RETROCRX]

HF aluminum drums, well, those are much better for performance (lighter)

Now now Tom, we know how I feel about that statement! Yes they are lighter, and provide the same stopping ability, but dependent on the length of time they are being used, their adjustment becomes important unlike the rear discs. If you were to go lapping with the drums and ran for a fairly long time you would have to stop and adjust them, where you wouldn't with the discs.

But I know what you meant! Better for your application in Auto-X

Rob

[rpr]

Yep, true enough. Some kind of stepper motor on the adjuster would be way cool.

[hamada]

I looked through the FAQ, but I was just hoping to get more in depth and easier to understand info here (and was wondering if there were any other options). Thanks for the info and advice on the 165/70/13 dacollier1. I think I'll go with the 195/50/15s, I think that's the same set up rpr recommended in the FAQ for street use.

Trying to choose between rear teg disc brakes or my stock aluminum drums, is there any benefit to having a prelude master cylinder and proportioning valve other than the fact that it allows for rear disc brakes? What other systems does it affect?

What do you mean by haveing to adjust the drum brakes ever so often? I'm thinking of doing some autoX when I'm done with my engine swap (D16A1). Is the D16A1 set up more for drag racing or autoX, OR would it work well for both applications?

Thanks for all the help so far you guys. It's nice to find a forum where people aren't rude just because you haven't learned the basics yet. If you have any more sugestions let me know please.

Edited by hamada, 18 July 2003 - 03:16 AM.

[dacollier1]

prelude master and teg proportioning valve is for using all 4 teg calipers. use stock master and proportioning valve with civic calipers (88-91) and stock rear drums. I'd stick with the aluminum drums for street and autocross uses. The D16A1 is fine for auto-cross. for drag probably need a little more power than a stock (non turbo) D16a1 will give you.

[RETROCRX]

For your app, I'd stick with the aluminum rear drums, CRX master cyl and proportioning valve and Integra front calipers and rotors!

What I mean about adjusting the drums is that there is an adjuster star wheel inside the drum between the brake shoes. From time to time it has to be adjusted to reduce the clearance between the shoes and drum. It's not a big deal and for you application would only need to be done maybe once every couple of months!

Hope that helps

Rob

[hamada]

This may be a little off topic but what engine do you guys recommend for drag racing (b series? turbo on the D16A1?) ? Are there any good choices for both autoX and drag? Is it possible to race a CRX in a circuit race? If so what brakes/suspension, what engine would you guys go with?

I know that's alot of off topic info, but I really need some advice so I can get a good plan for my car before I buy anything. Thanks for being so patient. You guys have been bunches of help so far.

I figure if I'm going to go through all the trouble of switching from carb to FI then I might as well put in an engine made to perform and impress. Sorry in advance if this sounds really stupid...